Aquarius Rebuild Kit

[Green Frog]

Well, I figure the crusty old Aquarius will fall into the “Nothing ventured…” category. I won’t have to buy any new tools past what I already have, and the only instrumentation I’ll need will be the pressure gauge to set IP. If this works out, maybe I’ll venture into the realm of AL 1085 seconds since this is my second stage of choice and they are common to the Aquarius as well as the Calypso and Conshelf series. You guys (along with Bryan’s videos) have inspired me to give it a shot!

I wonder whether I should use one of the later, plastic Conshelf seconds before I buy another 1085 box to build.

 

[Sensorone]

I just got a lifetime supply of the orings for the Aquarius from the oring store. DM me your address and I can send you some.

 

[GJC]

I completely self taught myself 5 years ago using Brian's videos, the books Regulator Savvy and Regulator Maintenace and Repair, and reading lots of posts on Scubaboard's vintage section. You can do it too.

I started with Conshelf XIVs and have progressed to vintage Scubapro, Poseidon, and others.

I consider anything I break and anything I buy from EBay that ends up not being what I can use as the tuition I pay to learn.

Regarding 1085 plastic vs chrome. Get what appeals to you. Internals are identical. I like chrome. It holds up better than plastic and draws more attention on the dive boat. On the other hand, it doesn't bother me to get rid of broken plastic parts if I can't use them.

 

[Green Frog]

I completely self taught myself 5 years ago using Brian's videos, the books Regulator Savvy and Regulator Maintenace and Repair, and reading lots of posts on Scubaboard's vintage section. You can do it too.

I started with Conshelf XIVs and have progressed to vintage Scubapro, Poseidon, and others.

I consider anything I break and anything I buy from EBay that ends up not being what I can use as the tuition I pay to learn.

Regarding 1085 plastic vs chrome. Get what appeals to you. Internals are identical. I like chrome. It holds up better than plastic and draws more attention on the dive boat. On the other hand, it doesn't bother me to get rid of broken plastic parts if I can't use them.

I have a decided preference for the plated brass 1085 seconds to the point where I haven’t dived anything else since one trip to Jamaica in 2013 when I dove rental gear. Ptui! I just thought maybe I’d try my hand at rebuilding one of the several plastic seconds I have in my junk box precisely because they are, IMO at least, totally expendable!

 

[GJC]

I have a decided preference for the plated brass 1085 seconds to the point where I haven’t dived anything else since one trip to Jamaica in 2013 when I dove rental gear. Ptui! I just thought maybe I’d try my hand at rebuilding one of the several plastic seconds I have in my junk box precisely because they are, IMO at least, totally expendable!

The one suggestion I have for the old chrome 1085s is to use extreme caution if you decide to remove the exhaust T. They get really hard and brittle with age. Some people have had success softening them by soaking in very hot water. I just never take them off anymore. It is possible to change the exhaust valve with long tweezers. Removing the T is more difficult than it is worth for me.

You can buy new style exhaust Ts that fit most 1085s, but here are no replacements for the old Ts.

 

[James79]

The one suggestion I have for the old chrome 1085s is to use extreme caution if you decide to remove the exhaust T. They get really hard and brittle with age. Some people have had success softening them by soaking in very hot water. I just never take them off anymore. It is possible to change the exhaust valve with long tweezers. Removing the T is more difficult than it is worth for me.

You can buy new style exhaust Ts that fit most 1085s, but here are no replacements for the old Ts.

I've started making a TPE printed functional replacement for the press fit 1085 T's. I also print TPU T's for the older screw on ones. Let me know if you need one.

Respectfully,

James

 

[Sensorone]

I have successfully removed several of the old style tees, then I split one. I don't remove them anymore unless they are trashed. I have found I can very adequately clean the second stage with it attached and don't ruin a good, old style exhaust tee. Thanks to James79 a source exists if yours is unserviceable and you want to keep it correct for the period. I have replaced several of the old style tees with newer ones salvaged from cracked plastic conshelf second stages and they work just fine.

 

[boat sju]

There's a Grainger Ind. Supply in Lynchburg. They can get you any oring you need, dirt cheap.

 

[Green Frog]

Unfortunately the Lynchburg Grainger closed several years ago. Our level of availability for tools and hardware has dropped off precipitously here in the last few years.

 

[boat sju]

Unfortunately the Lynchburg Grainger closed several years ago. Our level of availability for tools and hardware has dropped off precipitously here in the last few years.

So google maps was wrong? Imagine that.

Anyway, too bad they closed - it's nice having a source of o-rings nearby that references the SAE codes.