Apeks reg question

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Do you know what size this O ring is Phil?

Same question for a Scuba Pro poppet....what is the o-ring size that fits on to the poppet end that goes into the balance chamber?

Thanks,

couv
 
Do you know what size this O ring is Phil?

The Apeks part number for this o-ring is AP2041. If you are looking for a generic "dash size", I think it is an E70 AS568-002 (this is going from memory....don't hold my feet to the fire on the size). We actually use a factory Apeks o-ring and I can't tell you if the AP2041 has some special characteristics or material formulation. Apeks warns not to use anything other than factory Apeks parts. Certainly, the o-ring should be no harder than 70 Shore A and EPDM is specified by Apeks. As is always the caution, given that we don't know the exact performance characteristics and exact chemical characteristics of a factory o-ring used inside any regulator, using standard o-rings comes with some level of uncertainty.

For my personal regulators, I would have no problems using a commercial EPDM of 70 Shore A, or a Viton of 75 Shore A in this application.

Phil Ellis
 
Same question for a Scuba Pro poppet....what is the o-ring size that fits on to the poppet end that goes into the balance chamber?

Thanks,

couv

I would bet that it is the same as the Apeks.

Phil Ellis
 
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I have an ATX 200 and always have it serviced very easy breathing. This means that it will freeflow slightly after a week or so because the high pressure seat beds in causing the intermediate pressure to go up slightly. It is a five minute job to tweak it down slightly and it'll breathe perfectly for the next few months.
It's probably safe to say that most second stage leaks have their origins in the first stage. Tightening up in the second stage is a quick fix but more of a band aid than a cure.
 
Rick, you may be able to stop that by replacing the small o-ring on the end of the shuttle valve where it goes into the balance chamber. We find this o-ring bad on a lot of Apeks regulators brought in for rebuild. If this o-ring is worn, twisted, or scratched, the balance of the second stage is an off and on proposition.

Thanks, Phil. I'll take check it out and report back.
 
Thanks, Phil. I'll take check it out and report back.

Replacing this o-ring is a possible solution ONLY when the immediate pressure is stable and the second stage is adjusted to a reasonable (>1.0 inches of water pressure opening effort). When this o-ring is broken or worn, you sometimes get a couple of burps of air from the second stage. These little bursts are often spread out 20 seconds or more.

Phil Ellis
 
Replacing this o-ring is a possible solution ONLY when the immediate pressure is stable and the second stage is adjusted to a reasonable (>1.0 inches of water pressure opening effort). When this o-ring is broken or worn, you sometimes get a couple of burps of air from the second stage. These little bursts are often spread out 20 seconds or more.

Phil Ellis

What we're getting is slow, consistent, pea-sized bubbling. It's consistent throughout the dive, but not consistent from one dive to the next. And it's not depth or temperature related. Saturday's dive was 180' scooter dive, 41 degrees and no bubbling. But who knows on the next dive. The bubbling never increases during the dive - it stays perfectly consistent. Tuning down the second has no effect.
 
What we're getting is slow, consistent, pea-sized bubbling. It's consistent throughout the dive, but not consistent from one dive to the next. And it's not depth or temperature related. Saturday's dive was 180' scooter dive, 41 degrees and no bubbling. But who knows on the next dive. The bubbling never increases during the dive - it stays perfectly consistent. Tuning down the second has no effect.

That could very well be the o-ring on the shuttle valve. It could also be a very well worn second stage soft seat. Sometimes is settles well in the worn "groove". Other times is doesn't quite seat. I will be interested in hearing what you find.

Phil Ellis
 

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