Apeks O/balanced with G250?

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buddhasummer

Down under...
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I am in the process of learning to DIY and understanding the subtleties involved.

At present I have so many different kinds of regs it"s hurting my head and wallet. I've been mostly successful in servicing them all.

I'm considering culling to basically one type of first stage and one type, save D300, of second stage for my usual regular diving.

I've spent a lot of time mulling this over, taking all things into consideration, ease of bteathing, the depths I dive, water temps, ease of self servicing in remote locations, tools required, ease of obtaining parts etc. I think Apeks first stages with G250 secconds fit all my criteria.

I'm aware that Apeks are "overbalanced" and one can expect an increase of ip of around 1.5psi for every 10 meters of depth. My max depth is most often around 40 meters, occasionally, now I have a child, a fraction deeper.

I understand a G250 will start to freeflow at an increase in ip of around 5psi if tuned just shy of freeflow.

An Apeks first stage ip increases about 3-5 psi at low tank pressure. At 40 meters an ip increase of around 6 psi can be expected due to its overbalancing "feature".

That being said, I'm wondering the best way to tune the G250s to ensure no freeflow at depth.

As I understand it I can go several different routes:

A) tune the second stage to 1.2" as apparently this increases the point at which they are likely to freeflow from around 5psi to 20-25psi.

B) Do nothing and just use adjuster if/when required.

Or...

C) My thought, set the second stage just shy of freeflow at 145psi but use it with first stage tuned to 140psi as this will give me the required room to hopefully prevent any free flowing at depth. I can ignore the 3-5psi increase relating to low tank pressure as I'd never be at depth with only 500psi in the tank.

I'm wondering which course, if any, would give me the best performance throughout the dive or if basically any of the options would net the same result.

I'm ok about trying each option myself but thought if any of the gurus could advise it would save me some time.

If my understanding is wonky I'm of course happy to be corrected.

I know I can get a tank and play and probably get my answer but also wanted to check my understanding or lack of.

Thank you.
 
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Not related but perhaps useful for someone I experimented with a conshelf 14 second and if tuned "hot" it tipped at around a 10 psi increase.
 
Simon, maybe get in touch with @Luis H
 
Who is this guy and what makes him special here in this context?
Not sure if @Luis H has left for Cozumel or not but in a nutshell....Mechanical/Design Engineer responsible for the Phoenix first stage, HPR 2nd stage, Argonaut Kraken and the Argonaut DSV mouthpiece. All of which he does as a hobby. Luis is far too humble to extol his own virtues here but I'd suggest reading his posts if you want to separate actual facts from hype.
 
Who is this guy and what makes him special here in this context?

A highly knowledgeable regulator technician, with significant experience in "older" regulators. Mechanical engineer, and regulator designer. Also, significantly more than a warm water leisure diver.
 
There are a handful of super knowledgable folk on SB in regards to regulators, he is one, along with Couv, Halocline, Herman, DA Aquamaster, Axxel, there are others but these good folk sprang to mind first as all post regularly. I'll gladly take help from anyone who cares to offer. Cheers.
 
A reply I received, posting as it may be helpful to others: This person is extremely knowledgeable and I will follow their advice. Identity withheld as I don't have permission. I'm sure they wouldn't mind, but anyway:

"I am going to recommend option ”D”.

Option D: first of all, quit worrying about little minor details and go diving… Just kidding (in part). :)

The other part of Option D is a combination of all of the above. You have a diver adjustable second stage. I would not worry about a super precise fine tuning. Option D is kind of like option C with a more relaxed sprinkles from option B and A.

Regulators are not precise Swiss watches. The super precise fine tuning you are sweating today will change a bit with time, but with the adjustable second you can compensate.

All this tuning you are talking about is really just the cracking effort, which is only a part of the WOB story. Cracking effort is something that small variations are hard for a human to perceive (large variations is different story).

So, IMHO, just run the IP a few (or more) psi lower than the upper limit and use your diver adjustment as needed.

And have fun diving!"
 

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