Any reason I shouldn't change hoses myself?

[00wabbit]

I am playing with my hose routing and switching back to a shorter hose on my console. Is there any reason I can't do this myself? So ar I have asked the LDS to do it but I am a mechanically inclined person. It doesn't look like anything special, but since it's life preserving equipment I don't want to just jump in blindly. Is there anything hidden I should watch out for?

The only thing I want to do is switch hoses around.

 

[gcarter]

No reason why not. So long as you are not one of those who thinks if tight is good, tighter must be better you should be OK. It's just a hose.

 

[Mr Carcharodon]

Generally speaking there is no reason not to do this yourself. The hose at the first stage end will generally have a hex for which an open end wrench will work just fine. Some of the manufacturers will use a hex nut at the second stage, but others will use a spline which will require one or possibly two custom tools to hold onto properly. Of course a pair of pliers and a rag will work in a pinch. Please do not buy into the "life preserving" hoo haa. Just leak check your regulators in tub of water and make sure nothing is leaking, check that everything is beyond finger tight, and go diving.

 

[DazedAndConfuzed]

I was just doing that today between my Genesis SPG and Aeris computer. I wanted to swap hoses. Once I loosened the hose on the two, one of them had a little head sticking out of the gauge and the other one had a similar thing sticking out of the hose. So apparently, a HP hose is not a HP hose.

 

[japan-diver]

Actually a HP hose is all the same the small head you saw was the airspool - which is between the hose and gauge or computer. When you pulled them apart the spool stuck in the hose on one and in the computer in the other - the hoses are the same.

 

[herman]

I am playing with my hose routing and switching back to a shorter hose on my console. Is there any reason I can't do this myself? So ar I have asked the LDS to do it but I am a mechanically inclined person. It doesn't look like anything special, but since it's life preserving equipment I don't want to just jump in blindly. Is there anything hidden I should watch out for?

The only thing I want to do is switch hoses around.

There are only 2 things to keep in mind. First, start every hose by HAND and continue by hand until the fitting seats, it should go very easily. This prevents you from damaging the threads. Next realize that the oring does the sealing not fitting torque. Fact is it should not leak hand tight, the only real reason to tighten them more is to keep the fitting from backing off. With that in mind, just tighten the fitting enought to keep it secure and no more.

I was just doing that today between my Genesis SPG and Aeris computer. I wanted to swap hoses. Once I loosened the hose on the two, one of them had a little head sticking out of the gauge and the other one had a similar thing sticking out of the hose. So apparently, a HP hose is not a HP hose.

---------- Post Merged at 02:38 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 02:38 AM ----------

I was just doing that today between my Genesis SPG and Aeris computer. I wanted to swap hoses. Once I loosened the hose on the two, one of them had a little head sticking out of the gauge and the other one had a similar thing sticking out of the hose. So apparently, a HP hose is not a HP hose.

There are 2 types of hose ends but one of those was used early in scuba so odds are you will not run across it. The spool (little piece sticking out with the oring on it) is just resting in between the SPG and the hose. It's a 50/50 shot as to which side comes out first. That said, it is fairly common for one end or the other to be corroded into the fitting making it difficult to impossible to remove. When replacing them, it's the one place where I pack a good amount of lube. This prevents water from coming into contact with the spool and corroding it in place.

 

[fire_diver]

I am suprised that more divers don't know how (or are scared to) change thier own hoses.

When re-installing, make it "hand tight" then put a wrench on it and turn it maybe 1/10 of a turn more. It's as easy as that.

 

[spectrum]

Most hose work is pretty easy as described and light torque is the big story.

Some will read this and start thinking of hoses in general and in truth the same guidance applies. I will add that on second stages you need to be careful what you hold and how. Do not apply torque to the second stage body or it may crack /distort. A thin wrench is sometimes needed to hold the hex exiting the second stage.

Pete

 

[divad]

First, start every hose by HAND and continue by hand until the fitting seats, it should go very easily.

This is the most important thing. If you can't just spin it in by hand, STOP, before you cross-thread it and **** up your first stage.

 

[j2s]

As has been said it is not hard, be careful not to over torque, but you'll find that the fittings on hoses may be different sizes...Get as flat/thin an adjustable wrench as you can find and there is a thin scuba wrench on the market w/multiple sizes on both ends....Between the two tools you'll be able to add/remove hoses w/o 'rounding' or marring the fittings...If you have access to a machine shop the jaws on an adjustable wrench can be ground flatter.......The reason you need 'flat/thin' wrenches is you will eventually have to torque/counter-torque two fittings right next to each other or a transmitter that screws up almost right next to a 1st stage.......