AL first with Mares second ?

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buddhasummer

Down under...
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I'm in the process of building an unsealed Core/Titan first stage. AL spec an ip of 137-145. Mares spec their second stages to an ip of 142-148 I believe.

Even though it would be at top end of AL spec I'm assuming there'd be no issue using it with a Mares second? Just checking to be sure. Thank you.

(The mares second is just a dream at this juncture, an in my head build)
 
You can go a little lower and the Mares second will be fine.

This is from an old post by Greg Barlow:
Lead Turn has some great advice, and I concur with his recommendations. I have gotten to the point where I set the IP to an even 140psi on all the Mares diaprhagm models. It makes it simple for me to monitor the stability of the IP while I am at dive sites. I really don't think that increasing the IP to the higher end of the range makes an appreciable difference.

My recommnedations on tuning the various second stages is to set the primary to 1.2", and the back-up to 1.4". On my own personal regs, I set the primary to 1.0" on the Proton models, and 1.2" on the larger bodied units. The case geometry fault of the Proton permits the slightly lower cracking effort. I maintain the 1.4" on the back-up, as I wear mine around my neck, and want to make certain that they don't leak no matter the orientation of the mouthpiece.

Greg Barlow
 
I might buy one to try, can always sell it if it's not for me I guess, curiosity is killing me. Does anyone know the average price State side? Just wanna figure out how much I'd lose if I bought and sold one after a dive or two. Thank you.
 
You are looking for post-2008 Abyss (aka DR)? Those are the ones with the adjustment port on the opposite side of the housing from the lever nut. The earlier body is easy to find in one iteration or another all the way back to the Voltrex, but you need to take the faceplate and diaphragm off and use some sort of angled nut driver to adjust lever height.

The plastic Rover aka Prestige are widely available and inexpensive if you just want to see how they work. They all have the side port.

Protons also have the side port. They are the more compact version and were made in both metal and plastic. The metal ones are my preferred reg, but are hard to find. The plastics have the unfortunate problem with the disintegrating purge covers.
.
I can't be sure about prices anymore since I don't have access to Facebook marketplace. Maybe post here? Last time I asked if anyone had Proton metals (I'm using a lowercase "metal", because the metal-bodied Protons came in a few versions, only one was called the Proton Metal) for sale, a couple of people contacted me who wanted to sell Abyss seconds.

Edit - FWIW, I'd happily give you $150 for a pair of Proton metals and could easily be talked up to $200 if you had serviced them. Even a bit more for the fancy versions.
 
You are looking for post-2008 Abyss (aka DR)? Those are the ones with the adjustment port on the opposite side of the housing from the lever nut. The earlier body is easy to find in one iteration or another all the way back to the Voltrex, but you need to take the faceplate and diaphragm off and use some sort of angled nut driver to adjust lever height.

The plastic Rover aka Prestige are widely available and inexpensive if you just want to see how they work. They all have the side port.

Protons also have the side port. They are the more compact version and were made in both metal and plastic. The metal ones are my preferred reg, but are hard to find. The plastics have the unfortunate problem with the disintegrating purge covers.
.
I can't be sure about prices anymore since I don't have access to Facebook marketplace. Maybe post here? Last time I asked if anyone had Proton metals (I'm using a lowercase "metal", because the metal-bodied Protons came in a few versions, only one was called the Proton Metal) for sale, a couple of people contacted me who wanted to sell Abyss seconds.

Edit - FWIW, I'd happily give you $150 for a pair of Proton metals and could easily be talked up to $200 if you had serviced them. Even a bit more for the fancy versions.
Ruby seems to be the only model easily available here but as it has no side port I'm not interested. Looks like I'll need to buy a new XR DR to try.

I'll look for a Rover/Prestige as a cheap way to try one.
 
So sounds same (?$ as conshelf, the side port 14 is easier to tune, you need to bend a wrench to tune the non side port version.
Exactly. Or use a 5.5mm wobble socket.
 
Ruby seems to be the only model easily available here but as it has no side port I'm not interested. Looks like I'll need to buy a new XR DR to try.

I'll look for a Rover/Prestige as a cheap way to try one.

Since you can get parts and seem to enjoy building stuff, you could start with one of these NOS bodies. It won't be cheap, but I think less than a new DR?

 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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