Advice regarding MX10

[stitch626]

Hi All,

I am going to the red sea at the end of next week & I would like some advice regarding the Sea & Sea MX10 (I have looked at all the topics on this site regarding the MX10 and have learned a lot already , but I still have a few questions)

I have never done any underwater photography before and I would like some help to get the most out of my system. The problem I have is that I will not see any of my results until I get back home, by which time it will be too late to change my tactics.

I have an MX10 with strobe and close up lens and I am not sure about the best settings. I think this is correct but any input will be very gratefully received.

1) I plan to use 100asa film, is this what most people use?
2) Do I always use the strobe underwater, even if there is enough ambient light?
3) Do most people leave the strobe on auto or do they set it manually?
4) I have a close up lens. I guess this just allows me to get closer to the subject while maintaining focus. Is this correct?
5) How do you fix the MX10 to your BCD? I have a "Quick Release Coil Lanyard" that I have attached to a d-ring on the front of my BC. Although this works I am still worried that it will get in the way or bang around.
6) Now a stupid question, is the MX10 positively buoyant, negatively buoyant or neutrally buoyant.

Any other help/advise you can give me will be appreciated.

Many thanks and safe diving
Rgds
Stephen

 

[Dee]

I don't have time right now, but I'll answer you later. 'Til then basically....

1...yes
2...no
3...auto
4...sort of
5...coiled lanyard is perfect
6...negative

 

[kelpmermaid]

you might want to see if you can find a copy of the book, "The New Guide to Sea & Sea" by Joe Liburdi and Cara Sherman. I found that helpful. I use a different kind of clip to attach the camera to my bc, but it is a good idea just in case you get a cramp or something and need both hands to work it out...one less worry.

 

[stitch626]

Originally posted by Dee
I don't have time right now, but I'll answer you later. 'Til then basically....

Many thanks for that, look forward to your update later.

 

[herman]

I use both 100 and 400. I prefer 100 but if you are just starting, you may want to consider 400 because it will give you a little exposure latitude and a slightly wider depth of field.


I attach my MX-10 to my BC using a plastic clip and lanyard attached to the shoulder strap ends. This gives me a lanyard that is long enough to use the camera without unclipping it. I also have a small bungie O-ring around my other shoulder strap that I put around the strobe when I want to have both hands free. I have it around the entire strap but it could be attached to a D-ring as well.

The book recommended by KM is very good, get a copy asap. It will answer a lot of your questions and some you don't know you have.

Be sure to take the close up lens off under water and get all the air out from between the lens, even little bubbles will show up in your pictures.

The last suggestion is to get close to your subject, then get even closer.

 

[Dee]

Originally posted by stitch626
Hi All,

I am going to the red sea at the end of next week & I would like some advice regarding the Sea & Sea MX10 (I have looked at all the topics on this site regarding the MX10 and have learned a lot already , but I still have a few questions)

I have never done any underwater photography before and I would like some help to get the most out of my system. The problem I have is that I will not see any of my results until I get back home, by which time it will be too late to change my tactics.

I have an MX10 with strobe and close up lens and I am not sure about the best settings. I think this is correct but any input will be very gratefully received.

1) I plan to use 100asa film, is this what most people use?
2) Do I always use the strobe underwater, even if there is enough ambient light?
3) Do most people leave the strobe on auto or do they set it manually?
4) I have a close up lens. I guess this just allows me to get closer to the subject while maintaining focus. Is this correct?
5) How do you fix the MX10 to your BCD? I have a "Quick Release Coil Lanyard" that I have attached to a d-ring on the front of my BC. Although this works I am still worried that it will get in the way or bang around.
6) Now a stupid question, is the MX10 positively buoyant, negatively buoyant or neutrally buoyant.

Any other help/advise you can give me will be appreciated.

Many thanks and safe diving
Rgds
Stephen

1) ASA 100 is the most commonly used film in the MX-10. My favorite was Fuji Reala for overall color saturation. ASA400 will give you a little latitude but it's results can be grainy.

2) No. If you are in shallow water with plenty of ambient light, your strobe will only serve to highlight the particles and give you backscatter. The fixed strobe will cause backscatter because the strobe light reflects back directly into the camera...straight out and straight back. You'll never totally avoid backscatter but you can minimize it by not shooting when particulate are really bad and by reducing your subject to camera distance, keep you subject within 3 ft. That's as far as your strobe will reach anyway. Another way is to not use the strobe and concentrate on silhouette shots.

3) The auto setting is good when you first start out.

4) The close up lens is ideal at 18in" . Use f/11 aperature. Your depth of field (distance in focus) will be about 3.5" Anything closer and you'll lose focus. I never cared for the close up lens because it was just too restrictive. I much preferred either the 2T macro lens or the 20mm wide angle. With the 20mm, you can do close-up wide angle shots within 14-16". The great thing is they picture looks like you reach out and touch that fish yet you have the whole wide angle scene.

5) A coiled lanyard is good for cameras. You can clip it off short for those times when you aren't using it...out of film, etc. and the coil will allow you plenty of room for usage yet keep the cord out of the way. I use one on all my cameras.

6) The MX-10 is negative so if you don't have it attached to you and you drop it...it's gone!

For some basic settings...
Sunny day settings
F/5.6 - deeper than 60 ft.
F/8 - less than 60 ft.
F/11 - shooting directly into sand or into the sun

Cloudy day settings
F/5.6 - at all depths
F/11 – shooting directly into sand or into the sun


As others have suggested, the Sea & Sea book is invaluable for technical details. I have an article in Word format that I'll be glad to email to you that will really help you with composition and tips. Things like get close. then when you think you're close enough, get even closer. Always try to shoot slightly up towards your subject. When you shoot down on a subject, the whole picture looks flat.

If you'll send me your email addy, I'll send it to you.

ps....Here's an excellent site for beginning Photo Instruction by Dave Read.

 

[stitch626]

Many thanks for all your help. I will let you know how I get on.

Cheers

 

[scorpiofish]

Dee pretty much covered it.

I always used the strobe on "ON" not auto. Auto with the 20mm wide angle when you get real close to the subject.

Another neat trick I learned by accident was using 200 speed film with the camera set at 100. The exposures tended to be better.

The problem with the close up lens is that you have to estimate your camera to subject distance almost perfectly to get an image in focus. A macro lens has an even narrower depth of field, but it comes with a framer to eliminate the guess work. The close up lens has no framer. You have to measure your arm and use it as a ruler. Fish don't arms or framers.

 

[stitch626]

Okay thanks everybody for the tips & help. From all the topics on this forum and the reply’s here, I think I have it.

From what I understand:-

• The best film to use is Fuji Reala ASA100 (I now have 10 rolls x 36)
• Use the 20mm wide angle lens (I just brought one as I didn’t have one)
• Don’t bother with the close up lens (I will still take it with me and maybe I will try a couple of shots)
• Use the strobe most of the time

Wish me luck

 

[Dee]

Your photo focus is distance dependent. That's one reason you really watch your depth of field. So learn your underwater distances....everything looks closer!

Good luck and be sure to post your results!