Advice regarding MX10

[herman]

Don't be too hasty to trash the close up lens, I have alot of good shots with one. Just remember to get the distance correct....which is not the easiest thing to do. IF the subject is willing, I put the camera in my left elbow and extend my arm and index finger, get to where my finger almost touches, fold my arm back and take the shot. This is the easiest way I have found to "measure" the distance. Most fish are not this cooperative but some are. If nothing else, it gives you a "ruler" to take UW with you that you can use to to learn how to gauge the shot by eye. This does assume your arm is the correct length, but you can adjust the idea to fit your arm.

 

[stitch626]

Thanks Herman, that's a great tip. I never thought about that I will give it ago.

Rgds
Stephen

 

[stitch626]

Sorry to bug you guy’s, but I have one more question.

Are all the depth of field distances physical or apparent distance? I mean, as an example if I was going to use the close up lens with the strobe on auto and 100asa film. It says in the manual that for 100asa film with the strobe on auto the f-stop should be 4.5, and according to the book of words (for the close up lens) it says at 4.5 the depth of field is 1.5-2 feet (18-24 inches). Obviously this only gives me a 6inch window of useable focus.

If I use my arm like the suggestion above I have 18inches between my elbow and finger tips, so it will be easy to set the distance if it is physical distance. But if I do this and it is apparent distance then my photos will be out of focus (does this make sense?)

The same question also applies to the 20mm W/A lens.

I am sorry if I am making this more complicated then it really is.

Many thanks
Stephen

 

[Dee]

DOF is a physical distance. One good exercise to do...in your spare time ...is to get in a swimming pool with a yard stick. Lay it on the bottom pointing away from you, with the dumb end next to you (no offense!). Take pictures of it at every f/stop, the numbers in the DOF will be in focus.

I didn't explain that very well but maybe you'll understand what I meant!

 

[stitch626]

Got it. So we do not take into account the 25% increase in magnification that we see by being underwater?. Example; If an object is 4 foot away it would appear 3 foot away due the index refraction of water, so when choosing a depth of field setting I must pick one that covers the 4 foot range rather than the 3 foot range.

 

[Ranz]

A little off the subject, but I was looking at buying a MX10 from my LDS, and I would get the MX10 with strobe, 20mm wide angle lens, the close up lens, and carry case for $1050. Is this a good price, or do I need to look else where?
Thanks
Ranz

 

[herman]

Dee beat me to it but yea, it's the actual distance, so looks like you have a well calibrated arm.
If you have not done so already, tie a piece of string to the lenses and the camera, sure makes it easier to find it if you drop it. Make it long enough so that you can remove the lens. I tend to swap between lenses during a dive.


Ranz,

Try looking at B&H photo in New York. They have a web site and usually have the best prices I can find ( and they are an old, well known mail order dealer) http://www02.bhphotovideo.com/defau...__Acatalog_html___CatID=585___SID=EF57288BF90

You have to let them email you with their "best price", a pain but they do it almost instantly. Try searching on MX-10.

 

[Ranz]

Thanks herman!

 

[Dee]

As a precaution against losing lenses as you change them underwater, I always used a product called a Save-A-Lens Kit from GB Undersea. I wish the website had a picture showing it attached to the camera but it's a series of tie-wraps that attach to your lenses and camera that are connected with thin wire cables.

It sounds like it would be very entangling but it really isn't. The steel cables are just long enough to reach from point A to point B. I really like this sytem. It's so nice not to have to worry about dropping alens into the deep blue...BTDT! another really cool thing is if you need to change lenses in a hurry, say to capture that whale shark...and don;t have time to make sure the lens in securely in the caddy, just drop it and let it dangle!

Of course, that 200mm is the most versatile lens. Not only is it great for wide angle reef shots but it's excellent for close-up wide angle work within 16-18".

Just another idea for ya!

 

[Mouth Breather old]

Actually the MX-10 is negative WITH the strobe attached. The camera by itself is positive!