A couple questions on ordering first drysuit

[lexvil]

Are you sure? I believe it depends on how the force is acting on the rings. If it is a radial force, sure, I agree with you. An axial force? Not quite... but, as I said, my experience is limited, so I may be wrong

Also, what about mechanical fatigue? I guess aluminium has a better behaviour than plastic in this regard even in the case of radial forces, but, again, I cannot say 100%

By the way, do you have in mind any reasons for using aluminium instead of plastic?

People tend to believe certain thing based on logic, like a back inflate b/c will plant you face down in the water, the reality differs. In most cases I would take a good, well designed plastic part over aluminum for reasons like corrosion I can’t actually think of anything where aluminum is the ideal material, off the top of my head anyway.

 

[ginti]

People tend to believe certain thing based on logic, like a back inflate b/c will plant you face down in the water, the reality differs. In most cases I would take a good, well designed plastic part over aluminum for reasons like corrosion I can’t actually think of anything where aluminum is the ideal material, off the top of my head anyway.

I doubt I will ever hear about diving components in aluminium damaged by corrosion, this metal has relatively good anti-corrosion properties... again, as a non-expert I may be wrong. If I am right, the only disadvantage may be the price, assuming that the mechanical issues I mentioned before are not a real problem.

About the logic-based thinking process, you're right. What I have written comes from my experience, which is based more on what I heard than on what I could "scientifically" understand. I went for an aluminium set just because everyone told me it has a better mechanical resistance and that made sense to me, but I have never made any test (and I am not going to do any).

Thanks for explaining your point of view

 

[lexvil]

I doubt I will ever hear about diving components in aluminium damaged by corrosion, this metal has relatively good anti-corrosion properties... again, as a non-expert I may be wrong. If I am right, the only disadvantage may be the price, assuming that the mechanical issues I mentioned before are not a real problem.

About the logic-based thinking process, you're right. What I have written comes from my experience, which is based more on what I heard than on what I could "scientifically" understand. I went for an aluminium set just because everyone told me it has a better mechanical resistance and that made sense to me, but I have never made any test (and I am not going to do any).

Thanks for explaining your point of view

Corrosion can be a factor, SP tried an aluminum first stage some years back, nice and light but neglect it and t may never come apart (I would love to have a stainless MK 17, or titanium, I do have a titanium MK 11) aluminum back plates will show corrosion at points like bolt holes where they get scratched but I haven’t seen one loose structural strength at the thickness involved, it’s not a bad material but I can’t think of anything I would use that it would prove to be the ultimate material. The KUBI are nice and a solid performer, they are unlikely to ever be a problem in actual use.

 

[Bald Wookie]

@Rukkian - My advice is to avoid the dry gloves for the first little bit. If you're already diving, you likely already have neoprene gloves, so stick with those and get used to your drysuit prior to deciding on a dry glove system. With a si-tech quick cuff system you can add most dry glove systems, so upgrading after a few dives is not a big deal. If you want to try dry gloves, the commonly used dry gloves are readily available at most hardware stores, so you could pick up and pair and use them as "pull-over" dry gloves over the ring system you have in your suit.

Incidentally, this is how I dive mine permanently as I've seen far too many broken rings, leaky o-rings, or difficulty in changing a torn glove. I can pull a spare out of my bag and over my rings with no thought. Plus I keep my wrist seal in place in case I do get a torn glove during a dive.

After a few dives getting used to your suit, you can do a bunch of research and figure out what system you'd like.
Dry gloves are great, and they aren't too complex, but adding a system you are unfamiliar with along with the new drysuit, in my opinion, may overload your pre-dive prep work when you first try your drysuit. There are more important things to worry about initially, like zipping up properly and making sure your tank is turned on

 

[Ouvea]

@Rukkian :

1. At least from my own personal experience, brass zippers last longer. Never replaced a brass zipper but have replaced plastic zipper.
2. My TLS & E. Motion drysuits have warm neck collars. Helps keep the bibs in place and makes it warmer.
3. Silicone seals are more comfortable than latex seals. They even come in smaller sizes that have a reduced diameter opening.
4. I believe you can order Kubi from DRIS.
5. The dump valve should be located more toward your tricep, instead of the bicep. You cannot vent the valve when in a horizontal position, with the valve on the bicep since it points downward and is not the highest point on the upper arm. Look at the placement on the Bare X-Mission or any of the Santi drysuits. That is the correct position for the dump valve. Look at the Bare Sentry Pro drysuit. That's not where you want the dump valve (back entry zipper limits the placement of the dump valve).
6. I've had Apeks & Si Tech. I've had both and can't tell a difference.
7. Neoprene socks or attached boots is a personal preference. One is not necessarily better than the other. Easier to turn the sock inside/out to dry but at least you'll never forget your boots.
8. Reinforced knee & crotch is a good idea but you don't have to overkill this one and it could reduce the flexibility of the suit.
9. Pockets are good. Get the larger pockets. Easier to reach in and grab stuff.

Don't forget to budget for your undergarments (baselayer & the primary layer that keeps you warm), possibly some larger fins and some additional weights. Do not compromise on fit. A suit that is too small will severely limit your movement. You simply cannot overcome this. A drysuit too large will have excess material that will trap air, making it difficult to vent. Not all manufacturers size suits identically, so the fit of one brand may differ from the fit of another.

 

[ginti]

Corrosion can be a factor, SP tried an aluminum first stage some years back, nice and light but neglect it and t may never come apart (I would love to have a stainless MK 17, or titanium, I do have a titanium MK 11) aluminum back plates will show corrosion at points like bolt holes where they get scratched but I haven’t seen one loose structural strength at the thickness involved, it’s not a bad material but I can’t think of anything I would use that it would prove to be the ultimate material. The KUBI are nice and a solid performer, they are unlikely to ever be a problem in actual use.

The types of corrosion that you described seems to me unlikely in the case of glove systems; here some info: Aluminium Corrosion | 13 Types Explained | Fractory

Anyway, we agree again: I can’t think of anything I would use that it would prove to be the ultimate material too, and I also think that Kubi are unlikely to ever be a problem in actual use.

 

[lexvil]

The types of corrosion that you described seems to me unlikely in the case of glove systems; here some info: Aluminium Corrosion | 13 Types Explained | Fractory

Anyway, we agree again: I can’t think of anything I would use that it would prove to be the ultimate material too, and I also think that Kubi are unlikely to ever be a problem in actual use.

Agreed, I did think of something, I don’t know why it didn’t dawn on me sooner, made from aluminum that Is perfect, flashlights.

 

[Colliam7]

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Folks, let’s keep the discussion focused on the questions that the OP asked, and put personalities aside. Two posts that moved away from that approach have been deleted in order to facilitate maintenance of the focus. As with any thread, read and respond to what is actually written. If you make a mistake in posting, correct it, or ask for Mod help in doing so. This is a useful discussion, for the OP as well as others considering the purchase of a dry suit. Let’s keep it that way.

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[ontdiver]

For your first dry suit - and given all the varied and useful advice in this thread - you may want to visit a more reliable dive shop, even if it involves some travel.

Understanding the fit and feel of a suit is critical particularly if you need to have it customized in some way. If you are able to narrow down choices, get someone to take detailed body measurements and provide these to a dive shop or on-line seller. This may elevate your comfort level if travel cannot be undertaken.

Keep in mind that you may need an undergarment; these can be bulky depending on the conditions you will dive in so don't rule out late fall early winter dives.

 

[stuartv]

I am finally looking to take the plunge to drysuit. Pretty sure on seaskin nova, but have a few questions. I have never used a drysuit at all (plan to get training once I receive it). I have no dive shops within several hours that have drysuits, so can't really try anything first.

1. metal vs ykk plastic zip - I have seen both, any personal experiences I should know?
2. Warm neck option useful?
3. I am thinking siflex seals for the kubi?
4. I am planning on ordering the kubi ring, and I know you also have to order the glove side separately. Since I am in the us, is there a better place to order just the glove side, instead of having it shipped, since I am assuming it is universal. I check dris, but they only seem to sell the whole thing (including the part to install in the suit.
5. Any reason to move any of the valves? I see lots of options, but having never used a dry suit, I am not sure.
6. Sitech valves vs the standard apeks?
7. I already have rock boots from deep6, are the compressed neoprene socks the best option?
8. I know they say the extra protection (Bum, elbow, crutch, shoulder) is not really needed, wondering if it would be a good investment, or just a waste and add extra weight. Thinking the knee for sure, but not sure on the rest.
9. Pockets - Thinking the standard bellows on both sides, but open to opinions.

I know this is asking a lot, and I greatly appreciate any help. Just a bit overwhelmed with all the options.

1 - I prefer plastic
2 - Yes, I like the Simple warm neck
3 - Yes, silicone
4 - I expect Seaskin will be the most economical to get the glove side from
5 - I have standard placement. I have friends that like the DIR placement. DIR placement may be slightly harder to reach when wearing thick undergarments - but give a little easier dumping. I have no issue with dumping from the standard placement, however.
6 - I prefer Si Tech. The Apeks Low Profile dump seems to be problematic for a non-trivial number of people and I would rather not have the "high profile" Apeks dump. Also, having Si Tech made it very easy for me to swap my inflator valve for one with a power passthrough to run heated undergarments.
7 - I think the compressed neo socks are the way to go.
8 - I would definitely get the Kevlar knee pads. I got some of the other protection and now think it was a waste of money.
9 - I prefer the zippered pockets - but I do wish they were a little larger. I don't like velcro pockets as they always seem to want to close on their own, making it harder for me to get stuff out.

I would really recommend getting a P valve, if you weren't planning on it. You don't have to use it. But, once you do start using it, you will wonder why you ever didn't.