7 Ft hose routing

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hermosadive:
That sounds dirty. :11:
GET...YOUR...MIND...OUT...OF...THE...GUTTER! :wink:
I was not talking about my overboard discharge valve!
But thanks for the compliment! :wink:
 
Lots of good ideas....thanks.
 
I use a small pocket with a spare mask instead of the battery pack. Works fine.

Chris
 
Rick I have enjoyed several of your posts but I have to say I don't appreciate your comment about cats.

I happen to be a cat LOVER and I can't believe you would post something about frying cats!

Don't you know fried food is bad for you.


SAUTE your cat with a little garlic and butter-much better-M
 
Michael Schlink:
Rick I have enjoyed several of your posts but I have to say I don't appreciate your comment about cats.

I happen to be a cat LOVER and I can't believe you would post something about frying cats!
Gee wiz, it was just an expression. Besides, I find them a bit bony. :eyebrow:
 
Otter:
I am thinking about converting one of my regs to a 7' hose on the primary. Is the hose routing different without a cannister light ( I don't think so) and if not, does the hose 'flop around' much?

I prefer to bungy the excess hose on my right tank. Many use the body wrap just fine and are quite comfortable with it. It never made sense to me and I have seen enough trouble with it to explore other options. It is totally clean and out of the way bungied to your right tank. If you need to deploy it just unwraps out of the bungy without difficulty and there is less chance for it to get entangled. If you need to provide gas to another diver most likely you are heading for the surface. If for some reason you needed to restow you would have to finish the dive with the body wrap.

--Matt
 
there is less chance for it to get entangled

A properly wrapped long hose is tight against your body. There is almost no way it can possibly get entangled without you getting tangled up with it.

matt_unique:
If for some reason you needed to restow you would have to finish the dive with the body wrap.

...Thus you have to learn how to donate it from the wrapped position as well in case you actually have a real emergency after you've deployed it (maybe for practice?) and wrapped it back up.

You are better off just learning to do it the one way that works in all situations.
 
Soggy:
A properly wrapped long hose is tight against your body. There is almost no way it can possibly get entangled without you getting tangled up with it.



...Thus you have to learn how to donate it from the wrapped position as well in case you actually have a real emergency after you've deployed it (maybe for practice?) and wrapped it back up.

You are better off just learning to do it the one way that works in all situations.

What I meant by entanglement was the hose getting tangled on your gear when you go to donate. I have watched this happen during OOA drills. This method also increases the chances of having your mask knocked off since the hose needs to slide go over your head.

It is not a realistic scenario to have to donate multiple times during a dive unless it is part of a class or for practice. If your buddy or another diver is OOA you are both going to the surface or your first stop. Since this will be a one time deployment I personally don't think there is a need to practice with the body wrap. The bungie method is cleaner, less clutter (hoses) going across and around your body and your gear. The body wrap is not a big deal, I just prefer the tank bungie. It's the best option for stowing the 7' hose in my opinion.

--Matt
 
I'd like to mention the swivel attachment used between the regulator second stage and the end of the 7 foot hose. I'm not overly experienced with the long hose, am nor total DIR, but I have used one off and on this past season for NE wreck diving. The swivel seems to allow easy positioning of the second stage as the hose comes over your shoulder for the second time.

I route the hose under my right hip using the light canister, but have also done other arrangements with the hose in the cumberbund (not totally crazy about that) and I'm still futzing with it. I like the air-sharing possibilities, not crazy about the extra "loop" you gotta contend with.

Just some quick comments. I'd be interested to hear what others' experiences have been. In general I'm using it and think the positive outweigh the negatives, but there are other approaches (at least to me) like handing off a sling bottle that is meant to be a bail-out or escape gas with a completely redundant regulator and tank.
 
matt_unique:
It is not a realistic scenario to have to donate multiple times during a dive unless it is part of a class or for practice.

I'm assuming this also means you don't do an S-drill at the beginning of every dive. How can you be sure that the hose will deploy when you need it without checking?

What gear can a wrapped hose get tangled on? Or, more accurately, what gear is it going to get caught on after you have checked the routing and rewrapped on the way down? That's the purpose of an s-drill and it's something you can't do with a stuffed hose.

Also, say you are doing a practice dive. First, you have limited yourself to one airshare per dive, and second, if during that dive someone *really* needs gas (such as during your buddy's valve drill, perhaps?) you are now donating gas differently each time. This is a very real situation, since valve drills would always be done *after* an air sharing drill.

Donating gas is *the* critical skill and it should be practiced to perfection. To do this means doing it the same every time. Consistency is key.

Without trying to beat a dead horse, let's look at this from a different direction....

What side do you keep your deco bottles on and how do you route your deco bottle regulator hose(s)?

Most, route the regulator from the left side, around the back of the neck and into the mouth from the right side...just like a long hose is wrapped. This way, nothing changes. All hoses are deployed in exactly the same way.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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