$50 Harbor Freight hookah system testing

[Jim Reece]

For my piece of mind, I would like some kind of filter on the compressor discharge. Looking at the videos he shot by the pool, it clearly had some kind of filter on the discharge side of the compressor. Also, for cleaning, do you disassemble the tank from the compressor and clean it internally with simple green? Is that really necessary and if so why not just some Dawn? And, how do you "sanitize" the compressor / tank? Plus if you get the tank internals wet, you have to be extra careful to get it fully dry before putting it into service. I may try building one of these for cleaning my pool.

 

[tbone1004]

@Jim Reece it looks like a water trap. It will catch some of the particulate, but the accumulator tanks will do more.

I wouldn't bother cleaning the inside of the tank though if you want to you can just put some simple green and hot water in there, slosh it around, then run the compressor a bunch and keep blowing it down to get rid of the water that's wet.

 

[Jim Reece]

@Jim Reece it looks like a water trap. It will catch some of the particulate, but the accumulator tanks will do more.

I wouldn't bother cleaning the inside of the tank though if you want to you can just put some simple green and hot water in there, slosh it around, then run the compressor a bunch and keep blowing it down to get rid of the water that's wet.

To "put some simple green and hot water in there, slosh it around", wouldn't you have to basically disassemble the whole thing? And what would you use to "disinfect" the tank? Seems like a lot of trouble, but I guess it's possible that some oil or chemical was left inside the tank during assembly.

 

[lionfish-eater]

I don't know what the internals of the compressor are, and while looking, I found this video.
It is for a different compressor, more like a tire inflator.
I don't think you can make a direct comparison, but probably similar level of quality.
The guy in the video is a little bit coarse, but stick with the video to see the teardown.

 

[lionfish-eater]

I think a compressor like this might be better

 

[Jim Reece]

Also, the octopus referenced in the original post was a 145 PSI hose Explorer Scuba Diving Dive 2nd Stage Octopus that can be purchased on Amazon for about $20. How good are these as for breathing ease compared to another in expensive octopus like a Sherwood. I can get a used Sherwood for about $50. What would you recommend for a reliable but inexpensive octopus?

 

[Bob DBF]

On eBay for $15.84.

Description copied from eBay listing.

Mechanically balanced for smooth and easy inhalation and exhalation.
Under-chin exhaust system, directing bubbles to the sides.
Free flow resistant.
Silicone mouthpiece.
22 inch low pressure hose.
Housing: PC +ABS
Valve: Electro Less Nickel Plated Brass
Diaphragm: silicone
Color: Orange
Quantity: 1 pc
Pressure hose length: 57cm / 22.44 inch
Type: downstream demand valve
Maximum Intermediate Pressure: 145 PSI
Inhalation Effort: 1.10 - 1.25 CIW
Exhalation Effort: 1.10 CIW
Flow Rate: 30+ SCFM (air supply: 3000 PSI)
Package Contents: 1 x Scuba Diving Dive Regulator
Only the above package content, other products are not included.
Note: Light shooting and different displays may cause the color of the item in the picture a little different from the real thing. The measurement allowed error is +/- 1-3cm.


It talks about a mechanical balanced, so I'm skeptical that it is actually a balanced second since it dosent specifically say that, and a balanced second would be my choice to be less sensitive to changes in line pressure.

An old Sherwood, by the book, should have an inhalation effort of 1.0" of water, and exhalation effort of no more than 0.5" of water, both tested at 1 atm. The Sherwood is unbalanced as well.

I haven't used, or heard of this reg before this thread.


Bob

 

[tbone1004]

To "put some simple green and hot water in there, slosh it around", wouldn't you have to basically disassemble the whole thing? And what would you use to "disinfect" the tank? Seems like a lot of trouble, but I guess it's possible that some oil or chemical was left inside the tank during assembly.

You don't need to disassemble the whole thing, just remove the drain plug and pour it in there. Super easy.

The simple green removes the oil and chemicals and is what we use to O2 clean tanks/regs. If you put the same mix in there, it will be squeaky clean. Scalding hot water and a bit of simple green. Pour it in there, shake it up, drain it out. Repeat with just hot water 2-3x to rinse the smell/taste of simple green out *it's nontoxic, but it tastes funny*. Put the plug back in, and run the compressor. Open the drain cock several times until it stops draining a lot of water. Once it does that, then put a blow gun on the hose and cycle it a few times until it blows dry air. BAM clean compressor.

 

[kelemvor]

Also, the octopus referenced in the original post was a 145 PSI hose Explorer Scuba Diving Dive 2nd Stage Octopus that can be purchased on Amazon for about $20. How good are these as for breathing ease compared to another in expensive octopus like a Sherwood. I can get a used Sherwood for about $50. What would you recommend for a reliable but inexpensive octopus?

Might have to change the cracking pressure a little bit. I don't think my shop air compressor (harbor flake) will go all the way to 145.

 

[Jim Reece]

Started working on putting together my DIY Hookya system. I have run into a roadblock. I can't figure out how to connect the second stage ocotpus to a standard air hose. Quick disconnects at a local dive shop are not compatible with standard air hose and local hardware stores don't have quick disconnects small enough to fit an octopus hose. For those that have been successful, how did you mate the regulator to a standard air hose? Can you provide a link to the part I need? I appreciate the help.