MidOH
Banned
Mine are all wrenched down. Not very tight, but couldn't bump it loose or remove it by hand. It's just brass afterall.
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The way this happens, is there are some people who are telling divers to only hand-tighten hoses. So, when those hoses are only hand-tight, with no tool, they are susceptible to coming loose. The simple solution is to make them hand-tight, and then just slightly tighter using a tool, and that problem goes away.I’ve heard of this happening to several divers here on ScubaBoard, but in over 60 years of diving, I’ve never experienced this. I do my own maintenance, and always tighten the LP hose to second stage down with a wrench. Is this not done now?
SeaRat
Yikes! Can't say I've heard of that happening before; I did the long-hose wrap for many years, but now, I'm mostly a shallow water puppy.I had an incident where my regulator hose came loose at the 2nd stage, effectively blinding me with bubbles, and in all that chaos I couldn't find my octo.
Since then, I always have my regulators retained, so I always know where both are at all times, and I'm able to access them "blind" by feel alone. There are a variety of ways you can retain a regulator, but starting out with your octo on a necklace is fairly common. Personally, my "octo" (or pony, or other sidemount bottle) is on a chest-d-ring and breakaway clip. My primary is on a necklace. A lot of "advanced" divers will use a long-hose, wrapped in a specific way, which essentially retains itself.
These days, I always dive with redundant air on every dive. A similar incident now would just be annoying, but not scary or dangerous.Yikes! Can't say I've heard of that happening before; I did the long-hose wrap for many years, but now, I'm mostly a shallow water puppy.
Note that when I started diving single hose regulators, there were no plastic second stages. Yes, on plastic second stages, use two wrenches so as to not tighten against the plastic body. ‘Haven’t actually ever seen a “heat exchanger O-ring” on my second stages. Is that specific to a brand?Be cautious not to over-tighten the LP hose onto the 2nd stage. The recommended standard tightness is 5 Newton-meters (Nm) for most regulators. To achieve this, initially tighten the hose using finger strength and then give it a slight nudge with a wrench until it reaches the point where it cannot be unscrewed further by hand.
It is advisable to use two wrenches for this process, one to secure the second stage while the other is used to turn the LP hose. Over-tightening the LP hose to the 2nd stage can lead to two significant issues. Firstly, there is a risk of cracking the 2nd stage body, which is typically constructed from plastic. Secondly, excessive tightening may result in damaging the Heat Exchanger O-Ring, leading to potential leaks.
Note that when I started diving single hose regulators, there were no plastic second stages. Yes, on plastic second stages, use two wrenches so as to not tighten against the plastic body. ‘Haven’t actually ever seen a “heat exchanger O-ring” on my second stages. Is that specific to a brand?
SeaRat
Well, let's go over some of the basics.You need to kneel for learning how to use properly an ARO (chest mounted pure oxygen rebreather).
As in the forties and the fifties this was the standard scuba system here in Europe, the first generation of instructors did teach this way.
Unfortunately this is quite bad for back-mounted air tanks.
But after 15 years teaching the ARO on kneels, instructors here continued this way also when the ARO was superseded by OC systems.
However I always wondered how kneeling started in countries such as US, where the ARO was never widespread, and they started teaching directly with air tanks.
Laying flat on the bottom should have been easier (of course floating was almost impossible with no BCD and the tanks full of air)...