300 Bar Valve question ?

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donooo

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I just picked up a PST HP 100 tank. It has what appears to be the right hand side of a 300 bar doubles manifold. The only label on it is "Made in Sweden" and the date 03/98. It also has a little black and green emblem on it. Does anyone have any ideal who made it ? I am thinking of trying to find an H-valve to use with it and am concerned about threads and sizes. It appears to have an allen wrench plug in the side and a bolt in the back that I am hopping is for the burst disc. But then I have never seen one like this and it is a new experience.

tnx don O
 
Ok first off let's start with the tank. Is it a 3500psi tank or a 3442psi tank, that will dictate the neck threads, the former are 7/8" and the latter 3/4". This may be important in a minute so you might wanna check.

Do you have a picture of the valve?

Is the outlet angled at about 45deg to the length of the tank? I am guessing its a genesis valve since they have a black and green logo, the burst disk is rather large and bolt-like on the backside too. But I can't say "made in sweden" rings a bell at all, I don't deal with these valves much.
 
Yes it is a HP 100, I think 98 and it is 3500. Yes the valve angles back like the Genesis valve on the HP 80.Where the Genesis valve on the 80 was smooth on the side, this has a shaft out with what looks like a "plug" in the end.

I'll go check for some Genesis info, and if I can't find an answer I'll try the picture. That will be a good challenge for the day.

Yes, the made in Sweden confuses me. I started out checking Poseidon, but have no other guess's.

tnx don O
 
Genesis did make both stand alone and Modular valves. You probably have a modular valve. A Dive Rite H valve might fit your valve (many different brand valves actually were made in the same factory). Personally, I would try a 232 bar H valve so a yoke regulator could also be used.
 
Ok I suppose it could be a posiden, overall the "swedish" thing is weird. I personally hate the angled outlet and since you will probably have problems getting burst disks etc for these I would just scrap the existing valve and start anew.

Unfortunately, the 7/8" neck presents a moderate sized problem. I don't know of anyone selling a 7/8" H valve complete.

TDL seems to sell 7/8" 3500 modular thermo valves
Thermo Modular 300 BAR DIN Outlet, RH [Val-MDRN] - $111.30 : Tech Diving Limited, a subsidiary of Scuba Training and Technology Inc.

But not the H part seperately. I would call them and tell them the tank info and have them build you an H out of the proper left or right hand modular valve and the H. If they simply can't get the H part seperate (doubt this will be a problem, TDL wants your business) then you could just buy the H part from DRexpress.
Modular Valve Systems by Dive Rite - Dive Gear Express

The DR valves are compatible with thermos, but they don't make or sell the 7/8" main valve tho.

Honestly, I am not a big fan of H valves since they create as many failure points as they help mitigate. I just got some 3500psi PSTs myself and I rebuilt 1 thermo valve and replaced the other tank's angled genesis valve with a standard K. I love the tanks now. I just dive them as straight singles, I have doubles for when I need redundancy.
 
Genesis did make both stand alone and Modular valves. You probably have a modular valve. A Dive Rite H valve might fit your valve (many different brand valves actually were made in the same factory).

While the threads <may> be the same, "Made in Sweden" gives me enough pause to not recommend just "trying it"

Personally, I would try a 232 bar H valve so a yoke regulator could also be used.

Can't get these for 3500psi 7/8" neck tanks, 300 bar is all that's ever been made.
 
You keep the 300 bar main valve and use the 232 bar side valve. I have done it a number of times. I would of course check i.d., o.d, thread engagement etc. first but having done this before (and working in hydraulics at much higher pressures), I know this is possable and safe if done right.
 
You keep the 300 bar main valve and use the 232 bar side valve. I have done it a number of times. I would of course check i.d., o.d, thread engagement etc. first but having done this before (and working in hydraulics at much higher pressures), I know this is possable and safe if done right.

Gotcha, yeah that's do-able. Although all of this is a pretty big effort to just put an H on a hp100.
 
Thanks guys for the good input. First a confession, when I took the tank out of the dark and stood it up in the light, it read different. Made in France,,, 30/98,,, and the funny little green and black symbol looks like a G. So I am guessing a Genesis RH modular valve. So, now I move on to "are all cross bar threads the same?" I mean will all of the RH, H valves that I find have the same threads ?

tnx don O
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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