2nd stage issues after yoke to DIN conversion on 50D
- Thread starter soamelt
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R
redacted
Guest
Some din retainers will accept an o-ring that will hold the saddle, otherwise, a little movement is to be expected. The saddle is pretty much cosmetic so a little movement is no problem.
Without an IP gauge to troubleshoot the problem, a minor adjustment of the 1st stage may just hide the actual problem for a while. If it is IP creep rather than a small misadjustment, the leaking problem will come back.
Without an IP gauge to troubleshoot the problem, a minor adjustment of the 1st stage may just hide the actual problem for a while. If it is IP creep rather than a small misadjustment, the leaking problem will come back.
Bubbletrubble
Contributor
I think that the "saddle" you're talking about is also known as a "spacer." It exists in the gap between the DIN handwheel and the first stage. As awap pointed out, this part plays no important role when the the first stage is attached to a tank valve. When the first stage isn't attached to a tank valve, it prevents the handwheel from sliding down the connector bolt and contacting the first stage. Some first stages are designed with a protrusion that traps the handwheel nicely between it and end of the DIN connector bolt. Such designs obviate the need for a spacer.
OP
soamelt
Contributor
I took my reg my LDS this weekend and they put an IP gauge on it. It was reading around 240, started slowly flowing as soon as it the tank was turned on. Guy at the shop tried turning down IP but said it wouldn't budge and didn't want to force it.
Is this something that can get out of whack on it's own?
Is this something that can get out of whack on it's own?
R
redacted
Guest
A seat can fail at any time and that is a likely cause of such out of range IP. that is not the kind of problem one might reasonably expect to be caused by an error in converting from yoke to din. But it is quite surprising that that, from what you describe, the tech was unable to operate the IP adjustment.
In any case, It is time to put it in the hands of a compete to tech to try to resolve the problems.
Bubbletrubble
Contributor
OK. It's clear there's something wrong with the first stage. Hopefully, a tech will be able to diagnose and fix whatever issue there is. Many will just repeat the overhaul...which might hide the real issue for a few more months. It's important to have a Zeagle-authorized technician look at it.
Yes, something like this can happen on its own. As awap stated, however, it's unusual that something as simple as DIN conversion would reveal such a problem. Very strange.
At the very least, have we convinced you to buy your own IP gauge?
I'd still recommend learning more about how regs work and how to do some simple troubleshooting on common reg issues. Learning how to tune your regs can be a useful skill to have. Good luck with everything...
OP
soamelt
Contributor
I don't even know of a "good" Zeagle tech in my area. The last one I sent it to for a complete over haul couldn't fix my last problem which is apparently now a reoccurring one. Either way, this is going to be an expensive and inconvenient piece of equipment if I have to keep getting it serviced every six month or 40ish dives.
I am going to get my own IP gauge, not sure about the book though. That can make me very dangerous when I start messing with mine and my buddies regs.
I am going to get my own IP gauge, not sure about the book though. That can make me very dangerous when I start messing with mine and my buddies regs.
This info will allow you to nail down where your regulator problem stems from.
No tools necessary, just a full tank of air and your problem child of a regulator.
Hook up the regulator and turn the air on in a quiet environment, and listen.
If a moment to a minute passes and a small hiss starts and builds with time, then your 1st stage is delivering hp air to the 2nd stage. It's a first stage problem. Don't dive it.
Purge and wait for repeat performance to confirm your diagnosis.
If free flow starts instantly when air is turned on, and continues after you pump the purge button, your 2nd stage needs to have the poppet set down against the seat a little harder to allow it to seal. Or, possably the seat replaced. It's a 2nd stage problem. Sometimes this adjustment is an easy one, because the tweek you need to make is in the air tube on the 2nd stage, down current from the hose atachment nut. You might see it while looking into the airway after taking the hose off. It's a screwdriver slot or a keyway for an allen key. But not on all brands.
The slightest clockwise rotation/movement should set the poppet down harder against the seat and stop the free flow. Usuall just enough to say it moved at all. Just check to make sure you still have a working purge button, because if you over rotate the adjustment that's what goes away.
If BOTH 2nd stages free flow, your first stage is majorly inoperable. It's open channel to the scuba tank.
Hope you find this of value.
No tools necessary, just a full tank of air and your problem child of a regulator.
Hook up the regulator and turn the air on in a quiet environment, and listen.
If a moment to a minute passes and a small hiss starts and builds with time, then your 1st stage is delivering hp air to the 2nd stage. It's a first stage problem. Don't dive it.
Purge and wait for repeat performance to confirm your diagnosis.
If free flow starts instantly when air is turned on, and continues after you pump the purge button, your 2nd stage needs to have the poppet set down against the seat a little harder to allow it to seal. Or, possably the seat replaced. It's a 2nd stage problem. Sometimes this adjustment is an easy one, because the tweek you need to make is in the air tube on the 2nd stage, down current from the hose atachment nut. You might see it while looking into the airway after taking the hose off. It's a screwdriver slot or a keyway for an allen key. But not on all brands.
The slightest clockwise rotation/movement should set the poppet down harder against the seat and stop the free flow. Usuall just enough to say it moved at all. Just check to make sure you still have a working purge button, because if you over rotate the adjustment that's what goes away.
If BOTH 2nd stages free flow, your first stage is majorly inoperable. It's open channel to the scuba tank.
Hope you find this of value.
OP
soamelt
Contributor
I did end up having to send it back to Zeagle and they replaced my first stage. Thanks everyone for the help/suggestions. Thanks Scott and Jim Fox @ Zeagle for once again providing OUTSTANDING service which is one of the reason's why 90% of all my gear is Zeagle!
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