200 vs 300 bar manifold

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I am a firm believer in utilizing DIN plugs no matter which valve you get. I am not talking about the silly plastic plugs but stainless steel plugs. These will help prevent damage as described above, keep you from loosing your gas, keep the valves clean, etc, etc. The only draw back is that you need to have a big 1" wrench on hand if they get pressurized.
 
Great info in this thread. Thumbs up.
 
This has been a really useful thread for me. I am going to be buying new regulators and a manifold. I now understand the differences between the 200 and 300 din, but I am trying to determine if I should be buying my new gear 200 or 300 din. What would the pro's and con's be? I will not be needing to attach 1st stages with yolk connections.
Thanks,
Carrie
 
MY question, when you say HP 100 are you talking 3442 or 3500 ? PST HP 100's have a 7/8" thread, where the other HP 100's (3442) have the more common 3/4" thread. So, your 300 bar din valve will only fit in one. Which HP 100 do you have ? Which thread on the valve ?

http://www.diverite.com/downloads/diverite_53.pdf

See the last question on the 2nd page.

adios don O
 
This has been a really useful thread for me. I am going to be buying new regulators and a manifold. I now understand the differences between the 200 and 300 din, but I am trying to determine if I should be buying my new gear 200 or 300 din. What would the pro's and con's be? I will not be needing to attach 1st stages with yolk connections.
Thanks,
Carrie

Buying new gear, you mean reg's ? All regs will be 300, you can't go wrong. Tank valves, you have a choice. You have just read that there is no difference strength wise, so I guess you go with the convertible valve which is 200 bar or 300 bar. The exception to that is that PST HP tanks are a pretty good deal, but then they come with valves, so again no choice. If you went to double up to PST HP tanks, again, no choice 300 bar 7/8" thread.

adios don O
 
Not exactly. 200 bar and 300 bar are pressures. bit more nicknames than actual pressure ratings in this particular context. There are a bunch of different outlet standards, from different countries and trade or standards organizations, and many of them allow following another accepted standard Most of them that do put a specific rating on the yoke or combi "international outlet" valves put it at 232 bar or so, which (when you compensate for the different standard temperatures at which the US and metric countries rate their tank pressures at, works out to... 3442 psi.

Which is why the tank manufacturers all re-rated their HP tanks to 3442 psi so they could use the combo valves even though the tanks are really still (if you look at their test pressures) 3500psi tanks.


Sorry, but you're wrong. 200 Bar and 300 Bar are measures of pressure 200 times atmosphere (2940 psi) and 300 times atmosphere (4410 psi).
 
This has been a really useful thread for me. I am going to be buying new regulators and a manifold. I now understand the differences between the 200 and 300 din, but I am trying to determine if I should be buying my new gear 200 or 300 din. What would the pro's and con's be? I will not be needing to attach 1st stages with yolk connections.
Thanks,
Carrie

I don't think any of the current DIN regulators sold in the US have the "200 bar" DIN fitting. In Europe, sometimes you do have a choice of which to get with your regulator. So, as far as regulators, just get "300 bar" DIN, it will fit either "200bar" or "300 bar" valves.

For valves, because of the added versatility, I suggest "200 bar" DIN valves with the proper burst disk for your tank service pressure.
 
This has been a really useful thread for me. I am going to be buying new regulators and a manifold. I now understand the differences between the 200 and 300 din, but I am trying to determine if I should be buying my new gear 200 or 300 din. What would the pro's and con's be? I will not be needing to attach 1st stages with yolk connections.
Thanks,
Carrie

Yoke connectors won't fit on 300 BAR manifolds. Get the 200 BAR!
 
Not exactly. 200 bar and 300 bar are pressures. bit more nicknames than actual pressure ratings in this particular context.

True enough, these days, although I do have an older Thermo 200 BAR manifold that's rated at the lower pressure.
 

Back
Top Bottom