200 BAR AND 300 BAR Manifold

[rjack321]

Wow...what are you guys doing in that neck of the woods? My (now Ex-) girlfriend dropped an entire rig valve down on the ground. The tank valve was just fine, but after I extricated the regulator (where the 300-bar fitting got warped) from the valve and replaced said fitting on the regulator, all was well. K-Valves are pretty indestructible, IME.

Peace,
Greg

Single tanks don't have much mass but doubles sliding around the truck bed get dinged. I have ruined two 300 bar valves in ~10yrs and no 200 bar valves. The SS DIN plugs help a little but really don't keep the tube perfectly tubular and square to the o-ring sealing surface.

 

[Kern]

300BAR Manifold and Single Tank Valves to match 300BAR 1st Stages for my Steel HP120's and HP100s.

200BAR for my Aluminum Pony bottles/bail out tanks.

* Exposed 300BAR threads on 1st stages will quickly pick up salt deposits requiring additional maintenance.
* I have not damaged a 300BAR valve. If unsure, you can purchase bolts to protect accidental leaks from roll on and damage during travel.
* Today, the Luxfer S106W 4350PSI 300BAR hoop-wrapped composite cylinder is available in the US and its possible (not holding my breath) 300BAR SCUBA tanks will become common.

Dwayne

300bar steel tanks have been available for quite some time.

 

[DwayneJ]

300bar steel tanks have been available for quite some time.

Not in the USA. Not so sure about Canada.

 

[coldsmoke]

First off, scrap the yokes and go with DIN. Use a din to yoke adapter for travel where they're renting yoke al80s or whatever.

Second, 200 and 300 bar are just slang terms with zero to do with strength. The 300 bar is way more likely to get dinged out of round and not work anymore. Get the 200 bar.

The definitive paper on the subject is here:
SCUBA Valves: Regulator Fittings, 200 vs 300 Bar FAQ and Cylinder Neck Threads - Dive Gear Express

Ha - Not to mention that it takes twice the time to screw in the reg. I got a few 300 bar valves and wish they were 200 for pretty much that reason alone.

As far as the exposed threads on a 300 bar reg in a 200 bar manifold being exposed to salt - I think water will penetrate right up to the o-ring. My guess as to the reason you may get that look of salt built up on the thread outside of the valve is due to friction cleaning of the contact threads inside the valve. Don't really know as I don't dive salt water enough to have that problem.

As well, does anyone actually make a 200 bar reg anymore? Argon regs aside of course.

Hunter

 

[kanonfodr]

Single tanks don't have much mass but doubles sliding around the truck bed get dinged. I have ruined two 300 bar valves in ~10yrs and no 200 bar valves. The SS DIN plugs help a little but really don't keep the tube perfectly tubular and square to the o-ring sealing surface.

Dude, ratchet straps, rope, chains...they are all cheap insurance my man.

Peace,
Greg

 

[rjack321]

300bar steel tanks have been available for quite some time.

This is irrelevant unless you have DIN regs where the innards are only rated to 200 bar. Both 200 and 300 are plenty strong enough for 5000psi (more than 300bar) the ONLY purpose of 300 bar valves is to make it impossible to put a reg which cannot handle that pressure on there.

300bar valves really serve no purpose if you have modern regs which are almost all capable of handling 4500psi inside.

 

[Kern]

This is irrelevant unless you have DIN regs where the innards are only rated to 200 bar. Both 200 and 300 are plenty strong enough for 5000psi (more than 300bar) the ONLY purpose of 300 bar valves is to make it impossible to put a reg which cannot handle that pressure on there.

300bar valves really serve no purpose if you have modern regs which are almost all capable of handling 4500psi inside.

I didn't mention valves or regs.

If you want a steel tank that's rated for 300bar fills instead of 232bar, it's quite relevant.

300 Bar Cylinders : Sterling Leisure Pty. Ltd.

232 Bar Cylinders : Sterling Leisure Pty. Ltd.

PS. In Oz all valves are stamped with their rated pressure. What is commonly called 200bar valve will be stamped 232bar. If you put a valve rated at 232bar, into a tank rated for 300bar fills, the valve will be considered the limiting factor, & very few will fill the tank past 232bar. But sure, I don't think the extra 2 threads on a valve makes much difference.

 

[rjack321]

The OP is in Montreal, Canada. I'm pretty sure he's not getting 4350psi/300 bar euro tanks. And if he somehow does for doubles, he'll be so head down it won't matter much.

The 99.99% chance the tanks are 3000psi Al80s, 2640psi "lp" steels, or 3442psi "hp" steels. 3180psi+ steels suck for doubles.

 

[EastTNDiver]

Hello all,

I have a quick question.

I'm looking forward to take the Advanced Nitrox/Deco procedure TDI course. At the same time I'm looking for what will be needed for a double tank setup. I see that Diverite has a 200 BAR manifold which will fit with my actual scubapro yoke reg.

Does it worth to keep my actual yoke reg? I feel like a little confused since we usually get tanks filled higher than 200 BAR (about 3300PSI for steel tank). What is the point with 200 BAR manifold?

thanks

pheel

You can replace the yoke on SP first stages with a DIN connector...mind you, not an adapter...but, an actual replacement...check with your SP dealer.

 

[pheel]

The OP is in Montreal, Canada. I'm pretty sure he's not getting 4350psi/300 bar euro tanks. And if he somehow does for doubles, he'll be so head down it won't matter much.

The 99.99% chance the tanks are 3000psi Al80s, 2640psi "lp" steels, or 3442psi "hp" steels. 3180psi+ steels suck for doubles.

That's correct we dive mainly with 3442 steel and 3000 alu. Not much of LP.

what sucks about 3180PSI and +?