1st Back Plate Disappointment

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The slots in that plate look like they are already chamfered but check slots anyway with your fingers. If there's any roughness smooth it with a file or some other appropriate means until it's nice ans smooth. With nice smooth slots, your shoulders will likely wear out before the harness does.
 
Hi everyone
Looking for a bit of advice…

I’ve just bought my 1st bp and harness and I’m a bit disappointed.

To me it seems the shoulder slots are at the wrong angle. They’re fine when the straps are straight (with 2” space), but as soon as I put it on, the shoulder strap angle means only the inside edge of the webbing is tensioned. Surely this will wear the edge/ harness faster? Is this right?

Has anyone else noticed this - I’ve looked at other plates online, but they all seem the same? Is it just how it is? It was sold as a Scubapro plate and harness.

View attachment 845194
Webbing is taught against full edge of the slot

View attachment 845195
Slots not aligned with shoulder angle

View attachment 845196
Definitely slack on outside edges

View attachment 845197
Better view showing only inside edge tight against the plate

Any advice more than appreciated - if only to put my mind at ease.
Thanks
Yes that seems to be the norm now. I believe it comes from the old OMS pates that used to have the webbing cross over behind your neck. H and Hogarthian came into play and the cross over thing was eliminated. Same as u I re rigged my plate to current configuration and was like wtf these angles and not right. Starting making my own plates (sold probably 100's) and did a lot of playing around with slot angles. My current plate is probably 20+ years old and still has the original webbing on it with pretty much 0 wear.
See post 5 here
Who came up with the "modern" backplate?
In reality webbing is cheap, if it wears and u have to change it out its like and hour of your time and $20.
What can I say maybe I'm OCD
Gary H
 
i've learned that I only notice things wrong with my rig when i'm not diving. as soon as i'm horizontal, everything is just perfect.
 
Bear in mind that at the end, what will provide all the support while diving is the belt/crotch strap... that's where the magic happens...love my backplate... your's looks perfectly normal....​
 
Bear in mind that at the end, what will provide all the support while diving is the belt/crotch strap... that's where the magic happens...love my backplate... your's looks perfectly normal....​

I agree with this.

The shoulder straps are there to prevent it from sliding left and right. The waist strap and crotch strap are there to hold it from moving up and down.

If the shoulder straps were tight enough to be snug on you while in the water, they’d be too small for you to get in or out of them. They have to be loose enough for you to get the rig on and off while seated on a boat bench, with huge dry glove cuffs. That isn’t that big, but there has to be a certain amount of length, and it will be more than you would need to hold it on your shoulders once it’s on.

Unlike most backpacks, these straps are not adjustable once you have them on, so you can’t tighten them when you’re done. So you’ll have to aim for that happy medium: as tight as reasonably possible while still being able to get into them. You will know if they are too loose if when you are in the water you tip to the side and the tanks shift on your back at your shoulders. If they do, you need to tighten your straps.

One other tip: make sure your waist strap is tight. And often, that means re-tightening your waist strap after you get in the water. Once the water compresses everything a bit, things shift around somewhat, etc., your waist strap will be too loose. That means everything will shift at that point. I make it part of my in-the-water beginning-of-dive process to just give my waist strap a bit of a tighten. Works for me.

ETA: I found out the hard way the role of straps in my advanced wreck class. There is a tricky hole the instructor takes students through which requires you to go completely sideways in order to get in through the hole: you and your tanks are now next to each other relative to gravity, and the tanks can slide much more easily. I couldn’t do it, because my tanks would shift just enough to be able to prevent me from wiggling through. I had previously had the straps adjusted for my dry suit, but was in my wetsuit for this dive, so they were literally like an inch or two longer than they should have been. My instructor also pointed out that if I had tightened my waistband at that point, I might have been able to secure things enough to make it through that hole. Like most things in advanced diving, the difference between success and failure often comes down to small details in the margins.

As for wear on the straps: I disagree with people who say it’ll take 1000 dives before you wear into the strap. Maybe I just have poorly manufactured plates, but I have multiple plates, and and all of them will begin to wear into the strap after mid double digit dives. I have two suggestions for that:

One, I use a piece of mountain bike tubing over top the strap in the areas where it goes through the plate. Something like 6 inches of tubing for each of the shoulder spots and a little less for each of the waist spots. it also helps to hold everything in place a bit. Of course, you will wear through the mountain bike tubing, but you just replace it before it begins to wear into the strap.

Two, make peace with your strap getting worn. After you replace the bicycle tubing a couple of times, you’re likely to get lazy because you just don’t want to be bothered with restringing a harness again. In which case, your straps will get chewed up. Oh well. Somewhere well north of 100 dives you’ll need to replace the strap. Again, oh well: the best strap in my opinion is the Halcyon webbing, so it’ll cost you something like 30 bucks to replace the shoulder webbing. So it’s like 30 cents a dive. I’ve made peace with it. :)

ETA2: anyone got a source for generic webbing that matches the supple/stiff characteristics of the Halcyon webbing? My cheapskate heart loves the idea of buying the webbing for less money, but I’d even buy it for the same price so that I didn’t look like a walking billboard with all those H’s on it. (having said that, I actually do find the H’s useful: they let me know if my waist strap is twisted, and it makes lining things up on the harness very quick and easy. I just hate looking like an advertisement.)
 
Here’s a couple of photos to give you an idea about the mountain bike tubing.

IMG_2212.jpeg

Here you see the left shoulder from the front. You can see I’ve put the mountain bike tubing over the strap. You can also see that the mountain bike tubing has been worn through, as well as the strap. This is also generic stiff webbing which is not my favorite. I’ve basically decided I’m going to use it till it’s too worn and replace it with Halcyon webbing.

IMG_2213.jpeg

Here is the same shoulder corner but from the backside. You can see that I cut the mountain bike tubing a little short. There’s no real reason not to have each end of that mountain bike tubing extend for about an inch farther at both ends. From memory, that ends up being six or so inches of tubing.

This was the first time I had tried the mountain bike tubing trick. It actually worked quite well, but I decided that prolonging the life of webbing I don’t actually like was somewhat counterproductive… :)

IMG_2214.jpeg

Here is my antique Halcyon stainless plate with actual Halcyon webbing. This was the second time I did this, and you’ll notice I made the tubing longer. As you can see, that one hotspot has started to wear through the mountain bike tubing. This is about the time I should replace it if I want to keep the webbing pristine. And this is the point when I realized that I’m too lazy to restring this to extend the life of a $30 piece of webbing… :) Really, there probably is still some time before I start to do damage to the strap. If I have a reason to do some maintenance on that rig, I’ll replace the mountain bike tubing. But I’m not going to do it just for that.

So I guess that, while I am certainly a cheapskate, I’m actually more lazy than cheap. :) (Reason #735 I don’t dive a rebreather.)
 
You're going to find that most things in scuba are a bit janky.

There isn't much drive to improve, once something functions.
Hmmm… sounds like a ‘that’ll do’ attitude.
I was expecting better, tbh. My golf bag straps are infinitely better/ more ergonomic.
 
Yes that seems to be the norm now. I believe it comes from the old OMS pates that used to have the webbing cross over behind your neck. H and Hogarthian came into play and the cross over thing was eliminated. Same as u I re rigged my plate to current configuration and was like wtf these angles and not right. Starting making my own plates (sold probably 100's) and did a lot of playing around with slot angles. My current plate is probably 20+ years old and still has the original webbing on it with pretty much 0 wear.
See post 5 here
Who came up with the "modern" backplate?
In reality webbing is cheap, if it wears and u have to change it out its like and hour of your time and $20.
What can I say maybe I'm OCD
Gary H
Excellent reply, thanks for explaining it like that.

Tbh… I’m already thinking of making a carbon fibre plate - I’ve experience in moulding. That way I can alter the slot angles and ergonomics so the straps sit flatter.
Thanks for the encouragement.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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