Scuba tank information

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Alvin Slovinsky

Contributor
Messages
137
Reaction score
24
Location
Sanford,mb
342F04DF-5AD9-42C9-A4DB-A203343441E4.jpeg D39F4EE1-2B88-45E3-AA9E-104F3FCC5493.jpeg A00522E8-F52E-4FB2-9A99-4CBAAD37DF67.jpeg I had the opportunity to get a scuba tank from a person who is getting out of diving the tank is in pristine condition and is full of oxygen as well. I wasn’t able to ask the individual more questions about it and since I’m new at this and am still learning Im hopeful someone can give me more information about it.
1) Is it steel or aluminum
2) the cubic foot size
3) what is the PSI
4) where is the stamped pressure on the tank.
 
lets hope it's full of air not oxygen as that would be toxic at depth. depending on how long it's been sitting, I'm not sure I'd want to breathe it either. About the only good thing about something in the tank is that it keeps other stuff out.

Judging from the NASDS VIP's it looks like a vintage 90's aluminum tank. Some around that time period (or possibly a little earlier) were condemned due to stress fractures in the neck. You can figure out if it's one here - Is my cylinder made from the "bad" alloy aka AL6351?

fyi, NASDS (I'm one) was absorbed into SSI at least a decade ago which helps date the tank.

If it's a steel, all it would need it to be tumbled to remove any rust. I don't believe it's a steel though.

This is totally a guess but I think it's an AL-80 - popular around that time and they came in white.

B4 you pay good money see if the seller is willing to have it inspected and more importantly - hydro'd. He may not as that's not cheap relative to the value of an old used tank he's trying to sell.

Most shops have a paid inspection where they remove the valve and stick a light in to check for problems. Plan on having the valve serviced on your dime also.

what's the price?
 
1. Steel
2. Unknown but big, Faber 108 maybe. (looks 8 inch diameter)
3. Psi is stamped on the shoulder of the tank.
4. See #3.
 
Take a picture of all the markings on the top of the cylinder you should be able to get more into. So far we only see pictures of inspections/hydros which tell nothing about the tank itself. Other than it's been a long time since the last inspection/testing
 
Take a picture of all the markings on the top of the cylinder you should be able to get more into. So far we only see pictures of inspections/hydros which tell nothing about the tank itself. Other than it's been a long time since the last inspection/testing
The only markings on the top of the tank are the ones in the picture there are no other markings on it.
 
It may be covered with paint. But if what you are saying is true then the tank is almost useless in the us. You need DOT markings in order for most shops to fill/inspect the cylinder
 
lets hope it's full of air not oxygen as that would be toxic at depth. depending on how long it's been sitting, I'm not sure I'd want to breathe it either. About the only good thing about something in the tank is that it keeps other stuff out.

Judging from the NASDS VIP's it looks like a vintage 90's aluminum tank. Some around that time period (or possibly a little earlier) were condemned due to stress fractures in the neck.
You can figure out if it's one here - Is my cylinder made from the "bad" alloy aka AL6351?

If it's a steel, all it would need it to be tumbled to remove any rust. I don't believe it's a steel though.

This is totally a guess but I think it's an AL-80 - popular around that time and they came in white.

Most steel tanks are steel colored.

B4 you pay good money see if the seller is willing to have it inspected. He may not as that's not cheap relative to the value of an old used tank he's trying to sell.
Most shops have a paid inspection where they remove the valve and stick a light in to check for problems. Plan on having the valve serviced on your dime also.

what's the price?
Oops my mistake it’s full of air how can I tell if it’s the bad alloy and there is an A marked on top of the valve itself in a black marker. There is a boot on the bottom of the tank I’ll check and see if there is any more information located there. I appreciate you taking the time to answer my question.
 
Will look like this but harder to read
oms-faber-scuba-tank-steel_1_47c13de7e2eb0b3de4a02c2b35040a15.jpg


Here is a diagram of what to look for. It won't say this exactly, but gives you an idea of the layout.
images.jpeg
 
It may be covered with paint. But if what you are saying is true then the tank is almost useless in the us. You need DOT markings in order for most shops to fill/inspect the cylinder
I do appreciate you all taking the time to answer my questions about it. Thank you once again
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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