Scuba tank information

[diversteve]

fyi, don't confuse an NASDS Sticker with a Hydro Stamp - they're two different things.

The first means someone unscrewed the valve and looked inside, the second means they blew it up past it's rated pressure then verified the integrity.

The fact that all the stickers are NASDS seems to indicate it's at least a couple decades old. Hope you got it at a good price.

 

[guruboy]

I'm talking about this seemingly random collection of numbers. Not sure what everyone might be referring to.

https://www.scubaboard.com/community/attachments/a00522e8-f52e-4fb2-9a99-4cbaad37df67-jpeg.516146/

 

[Alvin Slovinsky]

I agree it’s difficult to read not sure what the numbers mean and why they are distorted like they are. I got it for a very good price so I don’t have an issue putting money into getting certified so it’s useable.

 

[guruboy]

The REE number will be used by the testing facility to determine if it qualifies for a + rating.

 

[Alvin Slovinsky]

Thanks I was just reading a write up on this site about that definitely explained it in more detail.

 

[Alvin Slovinsky]

The REE number will be used by the testing facility to determine if it qualifies for a + rating.

I was hoping it would of provide more information on the tank not just the technical information for certifying it. The price for the inspection sounds very reasonable to me.

The price for a hydrostatic is $50 and includes the hydro test, visual inspection and air fill. An additional cost may occur if it is a steel tank (stamped 3AA) because after the hydro test they often come back with flash rust that we will tumble out. This price can vary but normally costs between $20-30.

For your future reference, every year (excluding the 5 year mark) the tank will need a visual inspection which is $20 and includes the air fill.

 

[guruboy]

There is no need to tumble flash rust out of a tank.

 

[Alvin Slovinsky]

There is no need to tumble flash rust out of a tank.

Thanks for letting me know hopefully it’s not required but I’ll still go on their advice after all they are qualified to do the testing and it won’t get certified till they are satisfied with the end results. Thanks for your advice it’s much appreciated.

 

[guruboy]

if the tank has so much rust that it interferes with the tester's ability to perform a visual inspection, it will have to be cleaned first. It could still fail the visual inspection after the cleaning. any rust formed due to the hydro test process should be minimal (surface rust) if the tank is dried properly.

if the dive shop who is handling this requalification process for you requires a tumble (after they get the tank back from hydro) before performing a scuba visual inspection, that is their right. on the other hand, it is your right to choose a different shop.

i suggest you clarify with your shop what their policies are.

 

[Alvin Slovinsky]

if the tank has so much rust that it interferes with the tester's ability to perform a visual inspection, it will have to be cleaned first. It could still fail the visual inspection after the cleaning. any rust formed due to the hydro test process should be minimal (surface rust) if the tank is dried properly.

if the dive shop who is handling this requalification process for you requires a tumble (after they get the tank back from hydro) before performing a scuba visual inspection, that is their right. on the other hand, it is your right to choose a different shop.

i suggest you clarify with your shop what their policies are.

I’m going to go on their advice since they are qualified to do the testing it’s another $20.00-$30.00 well worth it if it’s needed either way. Thanks for your advice as well it’s much appreciated.