How do you setup your primary and secondary regulators/hoses for recreational?

[Storker]

I thought the 40 had a venturi control, but not UAB.

I was pretty convinced it was the other way around: No venturi, but UAB.

Out of interest, why do you have your primary tuned that sharply?

It's how my LDS usually tunes it when he services my regs. And I kinda like it that way, no other good reason. Even if I've occasionally had to go back and ask him to de-tune the regs slightly.

I would have assumed that wouldn't be the case in cold water?

Why would cold water make a difference?

 

[Diving Dubai]

Why would cold water make a difference?

Assumption that you wanted to avoid free flows and icing - thus de-tuned. Obviously my knowledge of cold water diving can be written in 72 point on the sharp point of a needle

 

[tbone1004]

@Storker when you tune the regs too close to the edge it increases the susceptibility of freeflow. In cold water you obviously don't want them freeflowing....

I dive Poseidon Jetstreams so I don't have to worry about any of this :-D dive-predive switch is a beautiful beautiful thing

 

[Storker]

Assumption that you wanted to avoid free flows and icing - thus de-tuned.

With the right practice, I haven't noticed any significant difference between a sharply tuned and a somewhat de-tuned 2nd. Even well below freezing. Do it wrong, and it'll free-flow. Do it right, and you'll be fine. The main issue in cold temps is that it's harder to stop the freeflow if it starts.

BTW, a 2nd stage free-flow after surfacing is kinda de rigeur if it's really cold, no matter the tuning...

Obviously my knowledge of cold water diving can be written in 72 point on the sharp point of a needle

IOW, you're as knowledgeable about cold water diving as I am about surviving 30+ degrees C...

 

[tooez]

This thread is a great example of the value of SB. The OP asked a good question, and received A LOT of valuable feedback in a relatively short time – 70 posts in 30 hours! I think the volume of response offers ample evidence of the interest of SB users in the specific topic.

I agree. I didn't expect to get that many responds in a short period of time. I'm reading every single post and making a note for myself haha. I really appreciate all of you guys input. Thanks.

b) purchase two identical, or at least functionally equivalent, second stages – i.e. do not opt for a cheap, lower performing, needlessly detuned ‘octo’ as their alternate, simply because it is less expensive and they ‘probably won’t ever need it anyway’

I ordered MK17 EVO/G260 and R195 black color for oct. I should've ordered G260, I was really thinking about it for awhile but I didn't. Now, I wish I did.

 

[Diving Dubai]

Interesting! I have not encountered that particular configuration before. But, it appears to work for you, and I can now say I am at least aware of it. So, thank you for that information!I .

In Case it wasn't clear, my Alt comes under my left arm. It doesn't really matter given both regs have 90 degree swivels so are easy to donate in any direction (my wife has the same config so I know from experience in training) but I personally feel that is prevents hose tangles in a share situation)

I similarly acquired a (used) jacket BCD for my DM and IDC training

I may have to borrow a BCD for the equipment exchange, not sure who I will get and if my wing will work (for them) - and I'd need to wear a weight belt as any trim weight is on my wing. Will probably have to dig out my old thick wetsuit too as I'm sure I'll be the only wimp in a Drysuit - although I suppose in a pool if I put enough weight on it shouldn't be an issue (unless I forget to disconnect the DS inflator

 

[Colliam7]

I was pretty convinced it was the other way around: No venturi, but UAB.

OK, I suspect we simply have a terminology difference.

From the Apeks website:

‘The XTX40 comes with all the features of our highly successful XTX50 with the exception of diver adjustable breathing resistance control.’,

and in the detailed description of the XTX40 2nd stage: ‘The large venturi lever has a soft touch rubber grip, which makes it easier to locate and use.

 

[Storker]

My bad...

But the XTX40 has a UAB adjustment. You just need a hex key to work it

 

[scubafanatic]

7' hose is gross overkill for open-water recreational diving, unnecessary clutter/bulk. I've got my 'octos' on 48" (4 ft.) hoses, held streamlined by stowing under Halcyon 'mock cannister stick/delrin) primaries being Atomic Aquatics swivel hoses @ 32" long.

 

[tep]

@jseyfert3 the "streamlined" setup is something that many of us have been doing for a long time and Dive Rite thankfully capitalized on it and markets it along with DGX.

basically it is set up exactly like the long hose setup, but instead of a 60" or 84" hose, it is on a 36-40" hose with an angle adapter or ball swivel.

When I re-cert'ed (SSI) in 2007, my instructor suggested a "tech lite" setup. Necklaced 2nd (short hose) and a primary (medium hose) to donate. This was completely backwards from my original NASDS training in the 70s, but to be honest, it immediately made sense. He also recommended (initially) either using a console, just to keep everything in one place, or go ahead and put everything on the wrists, my choice. There were pros and cons for both. As a "new again" diver, I decided to keep everything in a console, at least to start. That worked pretty well for a long time, but as I got more dives...

Since then I've moved everything to wrist mount (except SPG), and I'm planning to move to the "steamlined" 40" hose, soon.

My question is: if you go to the under the right arm routing for a 40" hose and the 90 degree connector at the 2nd, which LP port do you bring that off of? One of the right side ports, or the end/down port? This is an Atomic original Z2 1st stage with 7 LP ports (one is on the bottom).

(My LDS telling me that the "we won't install a 90 or a 40" hose because that @#$^ "streamlined setup" has too many failure points and you'll probably die before you even get into the water, you NEED a 7' hose..." is a separate story.)