Just got this compressor, now what?

[Dexloy]

I got a good deal, I think. Here is what I think I know, it is a Bauer, maybe a Utilius 10? but it has a name plate on the side that says "Brownie" on the frame as well as the electric box that I do not think belongs there the brackets are home made. The motor has been painted so no info off of it. The pressure vessel has the following info on it. Model No. PO, Max Pressure 5000 psi, Air Processed 3200cf, O-Ring N04586. The crank case has the number 55/3991/02 and the “Brownie” tag says 5483.
What do I do now? Change the oil and filter before I try to run it? Are there some other tests and things I should do? I hope to do some CB with this unit and fill my HP120s. First, I guess I should find out what model it is and get a manual. I have read the O2 hacker and am capable rebuilding just about anything I just don’t want to wing this because it is life support and high pressure, neither are very forgiving of fools or mistakes.
Thanks,
Allen

 

[windyairman]

First is drive flywheel held on to the crank shaft with a bolt or circlip?
from this its either a 3 stage with 3 con rods or 3 stage with 2 con rods & a cam for the final stage
I have parts list for both types that i can copy

 

[CraigAClark]

That is an AM-35 (Auto Marine, 3HP, 5000 psi), that I built when I worked at Brownies. The compressor is a Bauer U-10, which was modified with auto-drain, auto- shut off/restart etc. The motor is a Leeson 3HP, single phase, 230V. The yellow hose in the first pic is the oil drain.

That Brownies bag should hold a 2 or 4-tank manifold. Some of the components look in bad shape. The unloader valve (AE Model 907) should be replaced and you better check out the Aero Hardware solenoid. There should be a blue cube shaped timer in the electrical box. That is the repeat-cycle timer for the auto-drain. The electrical box was not originally mounted in that position.

Craig

 

[ScallopDiver]

...Some of the components look in bad shape. The unloader valve (AE Model 907) should be replaced and you better check out the Aero Hardware solenoid. There should be a blue cube shaped timer in the electrical box. That is the repeat-cycle timer for the auto-drain. The electrical box was not originally mounted in that position.

Craig

I'm helping Allen out with this project and you are correct, the unloader valve looks all corroded. It looks like the Model 907 is no longer made. Is there a source you know of?

Can/should the auto drain solenoid, unload and timer be replaced by one of these?

Timer Controlled Condensate Drains on Jorc Industrial, LLC

What is the auto shut-off/restart for?

Thanks for the help.

 

[CraigAClark]

I'm helping Allen out with this project and you are correct, the unloader valve looks all corroded. It looks like the Model 907 is no longer made. Is there a source you know of?

Can/should the auto drain solenoid, unload and timer be replaced by one of these?

Timer Controlled Condensate Drains on Jorc Industrial, LLC

What is the auto shut-off/restart for?

Thanks for the help.

I just spoke with Aqua Environment and the 907 is still in production. Since the drain control pressure is only 80-90 psi, I don't know that you need something rated that high. Or is it your intention to replace the unloader with that unit?

Craig

 

[Dexloy]

First off, thanks for the help. We don't realy know what we should do about setting it up. We want to fill around 6-10 tanks a week and use CB for our nitrox, if the unit will support that. it did come with the 4 hose manifold. The moter that is on it, I don't think is the original as it does not look to fit the bracket right and the previous owner was a bit of a tinker-er hehe. Been diving and around dive shops for a long time but this is my first compressor and everything I know is from this board and the o2 hacker book. With that said I am looking for guidance and knowlage as to the best, safest, and economical path. (I know I spell poorly!) The unloader valve looks strange, like someone peeled layers off of it around the 3/8 fitting to get clearance or some thing. So should we take apart all the separator valves and fittings for maintance/replace/clean? then decide how and what to change?
Allen

 

[CraigAClark]

The unloader is deteriorating from corrosion. What do you want to do, restore it to its designed operation condition or modify it? My first check would be rotating the flywheel by hand to make sure nothing is locked up. Then check the oil by draining it and making sure there isn't any water in it. More than likely the oil is Delvac 1230, a petrolium based oil. If there is water in the oil, that could well indicate that the auto-drain was not functioning. At any rate, replace the oil, there is a little notch on the dipstick to indicate level. There are manual over-ride valves for the drain system, so you can run the machine without actually having the drain working to see if it will build pressure.

Sorry the belt required is a 3VX375, just noticed it was missing.

Craig

 

[Dexloy]

I think I want to modify it so I can fill the 120's and CB, the flywheel rotates well and you can hear the woop woop that you would expect from a compressor. should I replace the oil with the CF2000 and where would I buy that? online? store? or any other parts for that mater. I emailed Brownie to see if I could get an old manual. I am impressed that you saw the hose bag in the back ground. This may seem like a silly question but would I conect the fill mainifold to the unit to check if its building pressuer? I would also guess that if I drain the oil and there is no water in it then I could reuse it just to check the unit was working on a short run. There is a belt and fan cover as well just not in the photo. I dont think its the right length, I will have to properly mount the motor and get a good belt for it.

Allen

 

[pescador775]

Change out the oil with Ultrachem Chemlube 751 or Ultrachem Omnilube 455 (Nuvair). Hook up the fill whip to a tank. It is not necessary to open the tank valve for checking pressure. Watch to see if the back pressure valve is working (pressure at manifold will jump up) and that the relief valve is working (HISSS).

 

[CraigAClark]

If the manifold is standard, you will find a 10' whip in the bag, it may or may not be attached to the manifold, remove the blue cap on the compressor outlet and you will find the body (female) part of a quick-connect fitting, the male is on the end of that whip I mentioned. Like a BCD connection the two parts fit together. Unlike a BCD connection, the body is not a shut-off and cannot be taken apart under pressure. As long as the line valves on the fill assemblies are closed, you do not need to hook up to a tank to build pressure on the manifold gauge.

It looks like there is a cable from the electrical control box which probably ends in a Hubble marine twist-lok male plug. This machine requires that a neutral connection be present for the 120V operating controls, so you have 2 hot leads, 1 ground and 1 neutral. You will probably not find any household or garage connection to match that plug, so you will either have to hardwire the unit or buy the matching female receptical. They ain't cheap.

Pesky,
This unit has a pressure switch which is set below the safety relief pressure, so unless he adjust the triplex safety down, it will shut off before the safety lifts.

Craig