Question Issue with Hog D1X DIN locking screw undoing itself

[DANDM]

Has anyone had issues with the Hog D1X first stage DIN locking screw (part #2) undoing itself?

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but it sometimes just unscrews itself after being pressurised. I can't see anything wrong with the part or the o-ring on either side. It almost seems like when it's pressurised, if the first stage moves slightly, the DIN o-ring creates enough friction to unscrew itself? It only falls out after I depressurise it. It doesn't happen often, but it's happened like 2-3 times too often.

I have torqued it as per the service manual, to 125 inch pounds/14nm.

 

[rhwestfall]

Wife's did that this past summer. Between that and the actual DIN fitting, they do tend to be unreliable.... I'd speculate something is marginally off on the threads tolerance. Proper torque should not allow this to happen.

 

[rsingler]

I don't think HOG's torque is correct.
It's always been very low, but most other manufacturers have DIN inlet torque of double or more that specification. There are several other Taiwanese brands that are almost identical, with much greater torque.
I'm not recommending not following the manual, but for that and other reasons, that's not a brand I am a strong supporter of.

 

[Mobulai]

per the service manual, to 125 inch pounds/14nm.

Isn’t that a bit high? If I understand correctly you’re referring to the Sintered filter retainer
The analog part in SP (admittedly smaller) is recommended at 4-5Nm
The HP seat retainer for mk20/25 is rated at 14Nm, and that’s a much bigger part

So maybe more than 14Nm might be excessive (of course it’s still not 30Nm — for context I have an mk20 with the filter retainer fused to the DIN stem, I suspect someone torqued it to the DIN retainer spec of 30)

 

[DANDM]

Isn’t that a bit high? If I understand correctly you’re referring to the Sintered filter retainer
The analog part in SP (admittedly smaller) is recommended at 4-5Nm
The HP seat retainer for mk20/25 is rated at 14Nm, and that’s a much bigger part

So maybe more than 14Nm might be excessive (of course it’s still not 30Nm — for context I have an mk20 with the filter retainer fused to the DIN stem, I suspect someone torqued it to the DIN retainer spec of 30)

I see what you mean. I've looked at a few different brands and some have significantly much lighter torque settings.

However, like Rob above mentioned, other similar Taiwanese ones have much higher torque requirements. The DGX D6 for example, which looks nearly identical, has the torque settings as 150 inch-lb - 17Nm. So it's recommending a higher torque setting than the Hog manual.

 

[Mobulai]

would adding lubricant help with some lateral friction between the threads and keep it in place; or is that an ill-advised idea given the filter downstream (and it’s a HP inlet)?

 

[DANDM]

would adding lubricant help with some lateral friction between the threads and keep it in place; or is that an ill-advised idea given the filter downstream (and it’s a HP inlet)?

Wouldn't torquing slightly higher do the same thing? Using a lubricant would end up increasing how tight it is any way, and once the lubricant starts dissipating it could lead to frozen threads. Torquing higher, at least you know what torque setting you achieved.

 

[happy-diver]

No grease in there throw away your torquometers and tighten the thing and if it loosens tighten it more

I'm not recommending not following the manual, but for that and other reasons, that's not a brand I am a strong supporter of.

See, funny business and politics over informing the 100% people faithful

Come on man, should I change my name to rogue entity ha ha h aha ha!

 

[Mobulai]

Wouldn't torquing slightly higher do the same thing? Using a lubricant would end up increasing how tight it is any way, and once the lubricant starts dissipating it could lead to frozen threads. Torquing higher, at least you know what torque setting you achieved.

Your logic makes more sense (I’m just spitballing/thinking out loud this thread) ; probably that’s what happened to my fleabay find (at least I got a pristine piston out of it ; cheaper than the piston itself)

throw away your torquometers

Using the boot-pound method seems like a waste after I already bought these nice and expensive tq. wrenches (I know sunken cost fallacy)

You said it

rogue entity

Not necessarily a bad thing — the world could always use more mad scientist vibes

 

[Jim Lapenta]

Something doesn't sound right.
The D1 DIN fitting when I was teaching was torqued to 225 inch pounds, the DIN locking screw should be torqued to 150.
So that during servicing you can remove the locking screw and not loosen the inlet.
The other thing that WILL cause the screw to loosen is trying to turn the pressurized reg when it's on a cylinder. When the reg is pressurized and you try to turn the body, it's now essentially a wrench that loosens things up.
Unless someone did that, I never had a customer report loosening of the locking screw in over 10 years of servicing a few hundred HOG regs.

I just looked back through my materials and see that you must have an old manual. In the original manual the specs were off on a few things. The revised version that came out in 2012-13 as I recall and from my files upped the torque specs to what I specified above.