About to buy first regulator set - DIN or yoke?

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I'm kinda with @tbone1004 on this, even though I use DIN. Yoke is still more widely in use in resort locations. My concern with the "eventually you'll want it for tec" argument, is that most divers will never go there, and if you do have plans to go tec, you really want the best regulator you can buy. Most new divers don't know what they don't know, and tend to buy middle of the road regs and ultimately, they may not be what you want for tec.

Most of us that have been diving for "a while" have gone through multiple reg sets as our diving evolved, and as regulator design has improved.

So don't over think it. Get something you can afford and that your LDS services. There's really no such thing as a bad regulator either.

And as you likely are aware, a yolk can easily be converted to DIN.
 
I think the idea on one regulator is kind of cute, it boggles the imagination :wink:

I use Din locally with my own tanks, yoke for travel. For the most part yoke will do everything you need.
I wish I could think the same. I'm landlocked in Denver, which I love, but local diving means a very murky 15- to 20-foot-deep reservoir.
 
I see blown o-rings on Yoke regs ALL THE TIME. Never on a DIN.
Don't you mean Yoke tanks? Not challenging, just trying to understand.

This is what I'm struggling with. I'm in the market for a new reg set, and I really want DIN for its better design and fit, but if the DIN reg is going to have a yoke adapter on it most of the time, then I'm still subject to tank O-ring risk, as well as the extra bulk of an adapter.
 
Don't you mean Yoke tanks? Not challenging, just trying to understand.

This is what I'm struggling with. I'm in the market for a new reg set, and I really want DIN for its better design and fit, but if the DIN reg is going to have a yoke adapter on it most of the time, then I'm still subject to tank O-ring risk, as well as the extra bulk of an adapter.

Correct. DIN loses most of its value if you have to use an adapter most of the time. If that is the case, just get a yoke reg. For me, I dive my own tanks just about 100% of the time, and when I'm diving a rental, it typically has a convertable valve.
 
Don't you mean Yoke tanks? Not challenging, just trying to understand.

This is what I'm struggling with. I'm in the market for a new reg set, and I really want DIN for its better design and fit, but if the DIN reg is going to have a yoke adapter on it most of the time, then I'm still subject to tank O-ring risk, as well as the extra bulk of an adapter.
All regs come with either DIN or yoke. If you have the correct part, you can switch between them very easily. The yoke or DIN original manufacturer's parts are often cheaper than an adapter and they fit a lot better.
 
Go with the DIN fitting; it’s far safer in terms of a mount — something to consider, since tanks have been filled at far higher pressures than when I first began.

The standard “A” yoke is only rated to about 207 bar (3000 psi) in the US, only slightly higher overseas, while the DIN can easily withstand over 300 bar (over 4351 psi).

I’ve seen a couple of yoke failures over the years, and plenty of cracked ones on boats in Mexico -- though Baja was never really known as a hotbed for dive gear maintenance.

When I was last in Florida, the rental tanks were often above 262 bar (3800 psi) and plenty of divers were still using yokes.

Thankfully, the tanks that I had on hand, were those convertible to DIN, with the use of an Allen key, though the dive charter was still none too pleased with my futzing with their tanks . . .
 
Go with the DIN fitting; it’s far safer in terms of a mount — something to consider, since tanks have been filled at far higher pressures than when I first began.
Agree...but DIN is only safer if it's on a DIN tank :)
Thankfully, the tanks that I had on hand, were those convertible to DIN, with the use of an Allen key, though the dive charter was still none too pleased with my futzing with their tanks . . .
I wish all shops had those convertible tanks (I think they're also called Pro valves)? I just checked the place in Roatan that I am diving with in August and here was their response:

Most of CCV's cylinders have Pro Valves which have a removable insert that converts them from K to DIN.

Maybe I'll get a DIN and a yoke adapter, but only dive with shops that have these type tanks. There are also a few in Cozumel like this.

Any idea which size Allen wrench I'll need?
 
Any idea which size Allen wrench I'll need?

It varies based upon the specific manufacturer of the Pro valve, but they should have one. I'ver never run into an operation that uses Pro valves that cannot remove the insert for you upon request.
 
I'd (still) pick DIN, overall I think it is a more flexible choice, and provides an additional safety margin whenever used without the adapter. You may be able to dive DIN more often than you might think: I always ask ahead at shops when booking whether they have DIN (or convertible/Pro) valves, and a few times they were able to get me DIN cylinders, even if they don't have all of their cylinders outfitted that way. So with a little planning, it worked out. (I do always have an adapter with me.)

It varies based upon the specific manufacturer of the Pro valve, but they should have one. I'ver never run into an operation that uses Pro valves that cannot remove the insert for you upon request.
Somehow, I have run into that: they only had metric wrenches but I ended up with an imperial plug on one of my cylinders (and we were on the boat at that point). Fortunately, I have a star tool in my wetnotes' pocket, so I could remove it. In that case it was the 1/4", but this thread will show you there are plenty of other options, @dflaher.
 
Agree...but DIN is only safer if it's on a DIN tank :)

I wish all shops had those convertible tanks (I think they're also called Pro valves)? I just checked the place in Roatan that I am diving with in August and here was their response:

Most of CCV's cylinders have Pro Valves which have a removable insert that converts them from K to DIN.

Maybe I'll get a DIN and a yoke adapter, but only dive with shops that have these type tanks. There are also a few in Cozumel like this.

Any idea which size Allen wrench I'll need?
Pro valves on shop tanks - you're still taking a chance.

Most of a tank's entire life there is done in the yoke/insert mode.

Will the inserts come out after being cemented in place, encrusted and welded by salt, other corruption, and many many many fill cycles without ever having been removed? May need a battery operated impact drill to get some of those out (just kidding. maybe.). Not all, but some. And when you do, getting a good seal may sometimes be difficult too.

Doable, but not always easy or simple.

Also, the inserts don't always have consistent allen-head broach sizes. Usually one of two, but not always (6 or 8 mm IIRC, sometimes a 1/4" is the actual size rather than the 6 mm). Also because of the crustiness factor, a longer one is better than a shorty.

I would expect the CCV crew on your boat to take care of you in any case. Within a day or so, they will learn your preferences and equipment quirks. If not, just ask and they will be glad to accomodate.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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