Yoke to DIN vs DIN to Yoke

[RangerRobin661]

Hello All - I'm a new diver, just four boat dives since my OW in Nov in San Diego. I was looking for a reg in the $250 to $300 range & found that in a Hollis DC1 212 yoke Reg, open box at scuba.com which is close by my mom's. What a great staff over there by the way. I'm jazzed about trying the reg out this coming weekend in Monterey. I have almost all my own gear, borowing the rest including tanks.

My question(s) - my friends in a club in SD are letting me use their steel HP DIN tanks. What is the best connector to adapt my new first stage to DIN. Money is an object, but it is my life support. I'd probably leave the DIN connection on since I am using their tanks consistently. I was originally shopping for DIN regs and using a yoke adpater when needed. (Was lookng at a Zeagle ZX/50D DIN with yoke adapter)

Any other thoughts on DIN to yoke vs Yoke to DIN. I see reg adapters for $50-75, but there is also an adapter that screws into the DIN valve on the tank for abou $12 on leisure pro. Can't post the url, sorry.

I'll probably purchase a neutral aluminum tank(s) to allow me to beach dive more, and I can borrow the big 120 HP steel DIN tanks from my pals for the boat diving....but thats in the future.

Thanks for any ideas. Sorry to ramble but you guys have been muy helpful.

Robin

 

[widget]

Any other thoughts on DIN to yoke vs Yoke to DIN. I see reg adapters for $50-75, but there is also an adapter that screws into the DIN valve on the tank for abou $12 on leisure pro. Can't post the url, sorry.

Robin

Not quite sure what you want to know, but if I understand your question correctly, you have a yolk reg and want to use a din tank valve?

If its a 200 bar tank valve just buy the adaptor that screws into the valve, $10 bucks and you are done, screw it out when you have finished your dive and keep it in your bag.

If the valve is a 300 bar rating the standard din adaptor wont fit (it will be too short) -and your standard yolk wont fit over the valve head, this is intentional to prevent accidents. Valves with 300 bar ratings are only meant to be used as Dins.

So in short, using an international 200 bar valve with a removable din insert makes life easy as its quick and cheap to adapt any reg Din or yolk.

Hope that was your question.?

 

[anzac65]

Robin. Regs such as Zeagle (I know you don't have one) can be converted with a kit pretty easily, if for example you were going on a holiday.

If you buy a DIN reg and add a yoke adaptor you will find the first stage sticks out towards your head a fair bit. Not so great.

If you buy a yoke reg you can always use your friend's DIN tanks by screwing an insert into the tank valve. Allen key. Two minute job.

Whatever you choose, I don't think you'll ever be up the creek without a paddle. I'm sure you'll get lots more techie answers about HP tanks and so on in a minute or two. Hope I've helped.

 

[bwilcher]

Since you mentioned that your friend has a hp steel cylinder, your yoke regulator cannot be used with that valve, the regulator would have to be converted to din, and then a din to yoke adapter would be needed to use a normal k valve or a 200 bar convertable valve with a threaded insert.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

@RangerRobbin661:
Before you go off spending more money on the sport...

Simple solution in the short-term. Just ask your friends in San Diego if they have "Yoke/DIN convertible tank valves" on their HP steel tanks. All of the Worthington tanks I've seen in local dive shops have these convertible valves. I'm sure at least one person in the group will have a tank with a 200 bar valve that you can use with a screw-in yoke insert. Don't bother buying the screw-in insert because the convertible tank valves already come with them installed.

If you don't own your own tanks, I would just stick with a yoke reg for now. Typically, rental aluminum tanks have a yoke tank valve. Also, for typical warm water destination diving (especially to the Caribbean), having a yoke reg is more convenient.

Widget is correct in pointing out the differences between 200 bar vs. 300 bar tank valves. Ask your SD buddies to show you the difference in person. They can also explain the pros and cons of replacing the yoke attachment with a DIN one on your reg. If you ever choose to convert your yoke reg to DIN, I would recommend purchasing a DIN-to-yoke adapter and keeping it in your save-a-dive kit.

With regard to bwilcher's post, HP steel tanks can be used with yoke regs, so long as the tank has a Yoke/DIN convertible tank valve (then you'll, of course, need the screw-in yoke insert).

 

[Thalassamania]

Post your question over in the Hollis area, it will get an answer quickly. I believe, though I'm not sure, that the yoke is held on with one nut and can easily replaced with a DIN connector that should not be very expensive. The Hollis regs all have 300 bar yokes. I don't care for the screw-in inserts.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

What is the best connector to adapt my new first stage to DIN. Money is an object, but it is my life support. I'd probably leave the DIN connection on since I am using their tanks consistently. I was originally shopping for DIN regs and using a yoke adpater when needed. (Was lookng at a Zeagle ZX/50D DIN with yoke adapter)

In order to change your yoke first stage to DIN, you'll have to buy the yoke-to-DIN conversion kit made by the specific manufacturer (Hollis). These kits typically cost $50 - $80 each. Switching the connector out by yourself isn't a big deal, but you'll probably need a large adjustable wrench to loosen the yoke nut. Be careful not to harm the soft brass parts during the procedure. Any reg repair shop should be able to do the switch for you if you don't want to do it yourself. They might charge you a few bucks for the work, though. Alternatively, you could have them switch out the parts during overhaul service. They have to break down the sucker anyway, so switching out a part or two during reassembly shouldn't be a big deal.

Any other thoughts on DIN to yoke vs Yoke to DIN. I see reg adapters for $50-75, but there is also an adapter that screws into the DIN valve on the tank for abou $12 on leisure pro. Can't post the url, sorry.

If you decide to change your reg to a DIN first stage, you'll need to buy a spin-on DIN-to-yoke adapter just in case you have to attach your DIN reg to a tank with a K-valve. The spin-on adapters will cost another $30 - $80. Please note that the spin-on din-to-yoke adapter I'm talking about is very different from the $12 yoke insert you mentioned.

I'll probably purchase a neutral aluminum tank(s) to allow me to beach dive more, and I can borrow the big 120 HP steel DIN tanks from my pals for the boat diving....but thats in the future.

For local shore diving in San Diego, I'd recommend getting a HP100 steel tank. It has excellent buoyancy characteristics, and I find that it's really easy to trim out properly. However, if your dive buddies are using HP120s for their shore dives (and provided that your air consumption rate is comparable), you should probably also have a tank that contain 120 cuft of gas. It'll make gas/dive planning much easier.

Tanks are substantial investments in money and storage space. How often do you plan to dive in San Diego? If it's once a month or less, just borrow tanks from friends in the area. It's one less thing you need to pack in the car.

Hope this helps...

 

[b1gcountry]

It's probably a convertible valve. They probably have the insert. You are probably completely fine.

Call to make sure.

 

[RangerRobin661]

Thanks for all of the input here. Sorry to post w/o all the info available. (Just a little excited 'bout all this bizness!!) The steel tanks are 300 bar. My Hollis DC1 yoke first stage is 300 bar also. scuba.com will have the connector in stock soon, its about $70 and yes, converting just takes removing the hex nut and adding the adapter. Nick Hollis over on that board has also been very helpful. This is a great resource, thanks.

Taking the tank 411 for later shopping. I'll keep borrowing/renting until I get closer to the water......