yoke to din conversion

[Jonny Wishbone]

DGX and Dive Rite both make an adapter for 3500 PSI to use a DIN reg on a yoke tank valve.....if you are talking about the screw in insert adapter for a tank valve, if HP steel, this is usually how all the new tanks come and it is the design of the Thermo valve. HP Steel: 3442 PSI able to use DIN or Yoke...

 

[Magnus Lundstedt]

....if you are talking about the screw in insert adapter for a tank valve, if HP steel, this is usually how all the new tanks come and it is the design of the Thermo valve. HP Steel: 3442 PSI able to use DIN or Yoke...

Thats true for the low pressure tanks (up to 240 bar) With 300 bars tanks there are a deeper thread in the DIN valve and they wont work with the douhnut adapter.

 

[Jonny Wishbone]

the only 300 bar tank valves I remember ever seeing is the old Genesis valves that came on a 3500 psi tank. I don't think a yoke reg even fits over the valve. They were made kind of "idiot proof".

 

[Newdiv]

Second on the torque specs. On mine you have to torque the fitting to the first at 230in/lbs and the din screw part goes on at a much lower pressure

The Scubapro torque value on both the yoke retainer and din is 266in/lbs on a mk2 evo and 275-325 in/lbs for a mk2

 

[rsingler]

The Scubapro torque value on both the yoke retainer and din is 266in/lbs on a mk2 evo and 275-325 in/lbs for a mk2

Be advised that the latest model Mk2 torque specs are 266 in-lb like all their other regs. Overtorque carries a greater risk to your reg body and DIN/yoke bolt than being on the low side. If you're not in the habit of carrying your tank by your first stage, you won't unscrew a DIN or yoke fitting on a pressurized system.
I don't exceed 266 in-lb on ANY Scubapro first stage.

Almost ALL other mfrs specify 20-22 ft-lb (240-264 in-lb). There is no mechanical reason why early Mk2's need that higher value. Old specifications die hard.

 

[Newdiv]

I don't exceed 266 in-lb on ANY Scubapro first stage.

I fully agree with this and adhere to this same rule, I was just including both specs on the schematics.

 

[cbmech2]

newb question.

i there any steps or guidelines to follow to convert a yoke into a din first stage?

or only need to swap the parts?

All you need is the conversion kit. It is a matter of removing the yoke nut/screw and replacing it with the DIN Screw and handwheel. Good luck.

 

[victorzamora]

After years away from diving I just bought a new regulator (SP MK25 G260). I bought the DIN version thinking it more adaptable as I can either use it in DIN configuration or use a simple yoke adapter for yoke-only valves. Was this a reasonable approach?

This is what I've done and it's worked fine for me.

Kind of a thread hijack... but not an unrelated one. I have found the yoke adapter to be workable but kludgy. If I was exclusively using aluminum tanks I would definitely stick with a yoke first stage. Steel tanks can be used with a yoke via the use of a simple adapter that fits into the din fitting, though the tanks can only be filled to 3000 psi with the adapter. Ultimately it depends on the diving you actually do and the tanks you actually use. Your approach is reasonable, but I doubt you will like the din to yoke adapter any more than I did. If you normally dive steel, then great. If you normally dive aluminum, you will probably get sick of the adapter. Keep in mind that you can buy din fittings for your aluminum tanks, though, which is what I did for mine.

This isn't just Alu vs Steel....it's the type of valve. HP Steels (7/8" skinny-neck 3500psi tanks) use 300bar-only valves which yoke clamps can't go over, even if you use one of the inserts pictured above (DIN-donut). Other steels (<3500psi service pressure tanks) can use either DIN, Yoke, or convertible valves. The valve type is completely unrelated to the material of the tank (except for the 3500psi 7/8" skinny necks, as noted above).

 

[Scared Silly]

Removing the yoke retaining nut was the most difficult. *Tip* On some you can just use a big adjustable wrench from the side.

Then they swear like a pirate when adjustable wrench slips and mars the brass nut.

ProTip - buy a socket like this one: 1" Yoke Nut Socket

 

[SteveMKentucky]

So it sounds like my reasoning is OK. My personal tank is an aluminum 80 with a K valve configured for a DIN connection. I do have a yoke adapter which screws onto the first stage which the part that I think you all are referring to with respect to torque specs. I'm going on a dive this next week in the Turks and plan to rent my tank so expect it will likely have a K valve with a yoke connection. If so, I planned to screw on the adapter, snug it down and attach to the tank. Is that over-simplifying?