XS 100 vs 119

[samfsu]

I currently use a Faber 100. I am going to be purchasing new tanks and either going with the XS 100 or 119. I use 0 weight with the faber blue steels, i know with with the XS 100 or 119 I would not need weight but will I feel overweighted by the 119s? According to the bouyancy i dont think so but just making sure I am reading it correctly. Also if I get about a 40 minute dive on the 100s, would I get about a 50 min dive on the 119s?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
100 -
bouyancy full: -10lbs
bouyancy empty: -2.5lbs
weight empty: 33.1lbs

119-
bouyancy full: -10.9lbs
bouyancy empty: -2lbs
weight empty: 42.5lbs

Link to the tank details http://www.xsscuba.com/downloads/steel_cylinder_specs_all.pdf

 

[ams511]

I am confused, you talk about the difference between a 100 cf and a 119 cf but you post the differences between a 120 and a 119. What are you looking to purchase?

In general what you need to do is compare the buoyancy not the weight on the land. Looking at the specs the 119 will leave you more negative by a 1 lb or so than the XS 100.

 

[Nwcid]

Just wondering why you are not considering XS-130. It is only 1.5" longer and 1lb heavier with same empty buoyancy yet holds more gas. I originally started with HP-100. One of my instructors had me try a 119 then on the next dive an HP-130. I could not tell the difference between the two so now when I dive singles I use HP-130.

 

[lucca brassi]

Also if I get about a 40 minute dive on the 100s, would I get about a 50 min dive on the 119s?

I have same idea buying my ex FABER 18lit , 220 bar

bouyancy full: -3 kg
bouyancy empty: + 2kg
weight empty: 21 kg

sory for kg ;-) instead lb ..................................................... I HATE THEM...... with double valves - double NIGHTMARE !
----------------------------------------------------------------

I strongly recommend that you buy a small double cylinders instead of one large. Increases stability, funny as they are somehow more light (larger distance on the back - crank torque) profile is lower ....

Indeed, experiments at your LDS with 2x 8.5 lit 232 bar and steel you will not regret it!

DBG 8,5l breit Doppelgerät 232bar - Konkav - Artikeldetailansicht - TEC-DIVING Onlineshop - DER Onlineshop für Technisches Tauchen

 

[samfsu]

I am confused, you talk about the difference between a 100 cf and a 119 cf but you post the differences between a 120 and a 119. What are you looking to purchase?

In general what you need to do is compare the buoyancy not the weight on the land. Looking at the specs the 119 will leave you more negative by a 1 lb or so than the XS 100.

I corrected the details thanks for pointing that out.

---------- Post added November 10th, 2013 at 11:08 AM ----------

Just wondering why you are not considering XS-130. It is only 1.5" longer and 1lb heavier with same empty buoyancy yet holds more gas. I originally started with HP-100. One of my instructors had me try a 119 then on the next dive an HP-130. I could not tell the difference between the two so now when I dive singles I use HP-130.

The height on the 119 (23.9") is about the max I want to be. I really only want to be any longer than 23. The reason is that I am 5'7" and the tank hits my butt and I cant stand it or my head if i push it higher.

 

[ams511]

I strongly recommend that you buy a small double cylinders instead of one large. Increases stability, funny as they are somehow more light (larger distance on the back - crank torque) profile is lower ....

Do you think it is wise to recommend doubles to a diver just starting out? The OP only has a max of 24 dives. Also if he goes to doubles he will need an additional regulator, bands, a manifold etc.

---------- Post added November 10th, 2013 at 04:40 PM ----------

I
The height on the 119 (23.9") is about the max I want to be. I really only want to be any longer than 23. The reason is that I am 5'7" and the tank hits my butt and I cant stand it or my head if i push it higher.

As far as weighting goes, their buoyancy is within a pound of each other, so no big concern there. But with either tank you may be a bit over weighted because they are less buoyant than the Faber FX100 that you are currently using without weight.

Underwater the 119 will have a bit more drag because of its greater width.

If you use boats you need to check if they can accommodate an 8" tank.

If you shore dive you need to consider the difference in weight walking from where you kit up to where you enter and back again. The extra 9 lbs may be felt.

 

[GCullen94]

For single tank diving I'd go with a 100. I bought my first tank around dive 15 and it was 119... I wish I had gone with a 100. Your gas consumption rate will decrease as you gain more experience and your dive times will be longer. Around where I live the HP100 is the standard tank of choice. 100's are lighter on land, have less role in the water and less drag.

Lucca I am a GUE diver and I would not suggest that he go doubles at this point.

 

[scubadiver888]

I have HP100 and HP119 tanks. I really only wanted the HP100 but I got the HP119 for less than the HP100. I use the same weight for both tanks. So in the water they are going to be around the same for weighting. There have been a few really deep dives in heavy current which having the HP119 was nice. It allowed me to dive thirds. However, if you have a good SAC rate the HP100 should be fine.

Out of the water the HP119 is quite the beast. I can carry two HP100s (one in each hand) and my gear bag on my back but I think it would be a little taxing to haul everything if I had two HP119 tanks.

Also, the HP100 is 99.5 cu.ft. and the HP119 is 123 cu.ft. So if you get 40 minutes on the HP110 you should be able to get 50 minutes on the HP119, assuming you keep the same amount of air by volume for emergency.

 

[samfsu]

I have HP100 and HP119 tanks. I really only wanted the HP100 but I got the HP119 for less than the HP100. I use the same weight for both tanks. So in the water they are going to be around the same for weighting. There have been a few really deep dives in heavy current which having the HP119 was nice. It allowed me to dive thirds. However, if you have a good SAC rate the HP100 should be fine.

Out of the water the HP119 is quite the beast. I can carry two HP100s (one in each hand) and my gear bag on my back but I think it would be a little taxing to haul everything if I had two HP119 tanks.

Also, the HP100 is 99.5 cu.ft. and the HP119 is 123 cu.ft. So if you get 40 minutes on the HP110 you should be able to get 50 minutes on the HP119, assuming you keep the same amount of air by volume for emergency.

Thanks for validating my thinking. I am somewhat looking for more dive time but also to have more air for safety.

For those suggesting doubles, that will not work or be necessary since I do charter boat dives.

And for those that mentioned about me having 24 dives. I have many more than that but have not updated my profile here. sorry for any confusion. I am actually a rescue diver with 100+ dives.

 

[lucca brassi]

Originally Posted by lucca brassiI strongly recommend that you buy a small double cylinders instead of one large. Increases stability, funny as they are somehow more light (larger distance on the back - crank torque) profile is lower ....
Do you think it is wise to recommend doubles to a diver just starting out? The OP only has a max of 24 dives. Also if he goes to doubles he will need an additional regulator, bands, a manifold etc.

As diver beginner IMO he would not try valve drils ...etc , on single nor on doubles ... so no changes

Valves should be open all on surface single or these on doubles , double chechk ... so again no changes

Regulator with setup on single valve tank , could be used equal on doubles ... (mybe is good to put on second tank blind plugin to protect valve threads ) ....and again with no changes

For those suggesting doubles, that will not work or be necessary since I do charter boat dives.

that is good argument and completly agree