Jimchris
Support your local dive center
I've successfully fitted the blacktip X-Prop onto our two Sierras. All that is needed is the factory inner hub + Clutch plate, 3 1.25" #8 screws, an m5x25 screw, a stainless steel spacer, and basic hand tools.
NOTE: This will omit the factory mechanical clutch, I'm using the castle controller which has an electronic one.
I trimmed down the posts on the inner hub flush, then drilled through the remaining holes with the clutch plate mounted underneath. Next I removed the factory screws from the blacktip prop, and ran the 1.25" #8 screws through the blacktip hub, through the stock inner hub posts (believe it or not the holes line up) and into the clutch plate.
There is a gap between the motor shaft and the blacktip hub, I used a stack of stainless washers to fill in the void on the first one, used a stainless sleeve on the second one. The m5x25 screw holds the prop/hub assembly onto the motor shaft, be sure to use threadlocking compound on this screw.
After fitment, I applied a DA sanding pad to the shroud and turned the prop to eliminate any rubbing against the shroud.
I conducted a torture test at our local pool to debug any issues, only issue I found was I managed to overheat the controller, running at a 75% gear in 84 degree water probably didn't help. I cannot be certain of any thrust improvements, however it feels stronger, and it's certainly quieter and more balanced feeling than the factory prop. Definitely will move you through the water.
NOTE: This will omit the factory mechanical clutch, I'm using the castle controller which has an electronic one.
I trimmed down the posts on the inner hub flush, then drilled through the remaining holes with the clutch plate mounted underneath. Next I removed the factory screws from the blacktip prop, and ran the 1.25" #8 screws through the blacktip hub, through the stock inner hub posts (believe it or not the holes line up) and into the clutch plate.
There is a gap between the motor shaft and the blacktip hub, I used a stack of stainless washers to fill in the void on the first one, used a stainless sleeve on the second one. The m5x25 screw holds the prop/hub assembly onto the motor shaft, be sure to use threadlocking compound on this screw.
After fitment, I applied a DA sanding pad to the shroud and turned the prop to eliminate any rubbing against the shroud.
I conducted a torture test at our local pool to debug any issues, only issue I found was I managed to overheat the controller, running at a 75% gear in 84 degree water probably didn't help. I cannot be certain of any thrust improvements, however it feels stronger, and it's certainly quieter and more balanced feeling than the factory prop. Definitely will move you through the water.