Someone asked on a Facebook group how to secure tanks into the back of a pickup truck. Lots of answers involved wood / foam / pool noodle doodads where the tanks lay on the top. Sounds like it works for people, but if they crashed or slammed on the brakes, the tanks could go flying everywhere -- too dangerous for me. So I took a few photos of the modular rail system I installed in the bed of my pickup truck. Thought it would be useful to post them here as well, in case someone else has the same question.
I did it all before I even got into scuba diving, just to have attachment points for moving furniture and stuff like that. But it just so happens to work perfectly for scuba tanks as well.
I bought everything shown here from US Cargo Control, an Iowa-based company. They have a good selection and great customer service. Call for custom-made stuff, I recommend 1" by 48" stainless ratchet straps, with the smallest fixed end possible, which I believe is 6". It's also nice to have longer and/or stronger straps for other loads, like furniture or whatnot. A few 1" x 10' straps and 2" x 20' straps will go a long way for random cargo.
Imgur link to the photo album
There are 3 rails. One behind the cab, and one along each side. In the future, I intend to add some attachment points on the floor of the bed as well, between the ribbing and near the wheel wells. I don't recommend placing attachment points on the tailgate, since (1) the tailgate is flimsy and NOT intended to take loads, and (2) it would be a royal pain the ass anyway. On a truck with a stronger tailgate of more uniform shape, tailgate rails might be more realistic.
My SCUBA tanks are in the shop, but these kegs are about the same size -- you get the idea.
Each tank needs 1 really solid attachment point and 1 extra point to keep it from jiggling. To achieve this, a pair of tanks can share 1 strap, shown on the top. Many tanks can share the extra strap, shown here on the bottom. If I grab a keg and shake as hard as I can, the entire truck moves on its suspension, but the kegs are rigidly attached to the bed.
Rigged like this, I can fit 3 pairs of SCUBA tanks along the cab-side wall. More tanks can be added w/ more attachment points. Make sure each row of tanks is offset by half a tank, like this:
__________ # cab-side bed wall
OOOOOO # row of 6 tanks
..OOOOO # row of 5 tanks
....OOOO # row of 4 tanks
The most tanks I've ever loaded with this method is 14 (6 then 5 then 3). They were all totally secure, and most of the floor of my bed was available for a mountain of 4 people's SCUBA gear, folding table, folding chairs, etc.
If you plan to be nice to your ratchet straps (leave them in the cab, lubricate them every so often, etc) then the basic ones will work just fine. That was my original plan. In reality, I am too lazy for that, and would often leave them in the bed for months on end, covered in sand and salt water, rained on, etc. So after 2 years, the original straps are rusted to hell and it's time to toss them.
This week I just got in a set of the stainless ones, which cost about twice as much. I intend to just leave 4 of them in the bed 24/7/365, with extras in the cab, I expect these ones will last much longer.
I've experimented with a few types of attachment point fittings. Of these 3, I love the middle one the best, then the one on the left, and do not like the last one as much.
The problem with the last one is the plastic housing. Which does not affect its strength at all -- the breaking strength / WLL is identical compare to the metal housing one. It's just that the plastic housing tends to stick to the shaft a bit, and tends to grab onto the track only halfway sometimes, which is annoying.
The top strap here is made for motorcycle handlebars. I've never used it for that, but I do use it to add length or flexibility to the ratchet straps. If you want to stack multiple rows of tanks as described above, these really come in handy.
The bottom strap is a cinch strap. It's got velcro on one side, smooth on the other side. Nice for keeping your straps tidy when storing them, also good for stuff like extension cords or a regulator set.
The aluminum L-track comes in a few colors, pre-drilled and pre-countersunk every 6 inches. Sold by the foot. Get a foot longer than you need, then cut down to exact size with a hacksaw. Once installed, Sharpie the stainless machine screws to make them black if you want
The cab-side rail is held on by a dozen or so stainless flathead machine screws. I just drilled holes right through the bed. Secured each one with a fender washer, lock washer, and stainless nut.
Could have gone with a little shorter length here, but the extra length is actually really nice because you have to squeeze your fingers down that tiny little space between the bed and the cab, so you want something easy to hold onto.
My 2009 Tundra didn't come with the stock Toyota rails. But it did come with the attachment points for it already pre-drilled and pre-threaded. To make use of these, I had to drill and countersink matching holes in the L-track. That worked, but didn't seem strong enough, so I added a few more attachment points near the ladder rack / camper shell holes at the 4 corners of the bed.
One of my "bonus" attachment points, as seen through the ladder rack hole. Whoops, looks like I forgot the lock washer on this guy! But it's still super tight, and I haven't fidgeted with it in over 2 years, so honestly I'm not too concerned about it.
Hope this helps someone
I did it all before I even got into scuba diving, just to have attachment points for moving furniture and stuff like that. But it just so happens to work perfectly for scuba tanks as well.
I bought everything shown here from US Cargo Control, an Iowa-based company. They have a good selection and great customer service. Call for custom-made stuff, I recommend 1" by 48" stainless ratchet straps, with the smallest fixed end possible, which I believe is 6". It's also nice to have longer and/or stronger straps for other loads, like furniture or whatnot. A few 1" x 10' straps and 2" x 20' straps will go a long way for random cargo.
Imgur link to the photo album
There are 3 rails. One behind the cab, and one along each side. In the future, I intend to add some attachment points on the floor of the bed as well, between the ribbing and near the wheel wells. I don't recommend placing attachment points on the tailgate, since (1) the tailgate is flimsy and NOT intended to take loads, and (2) it would be a royal pain the ass anyway. On a truck with a stronger tailgate of more uniform shape, tailgate rails might be more realistic.
My SCUBA tanks are in the shop, but these kegs are about the same size -- you get the idea.
Each tank needs 1 really solid attachment point and 1 extra point to keep it from jiggling. To achieve this, a pair of tanks can share 1 strap, shown on the top. Many tanks can share the extra strap, shown here on the bottom. If I grab a keg and shake as hard as I can, the entire truck moves on its suspension, but the kegs are rigidly attached to the bed.
Rigged like this, I can fit 3 pairs of SCUBA tanks along the cab-side wall. More tanks can be added w/ more attachment points. Make sure each row of tanks is offset by half a tank, like this:
__________ # cab-side bed wall
OOOOOO # row of 6 tanks
..OOOOO # row of 5 tanks
....OOOO # row of 4 tanks
The most tanks I've ever loaded with this method is 14 (6 then 5 then 3). They were all totally secure, and most of the floor of my bed was available for a mountain of 4 people's SCUBA gear, folding table, folding chairs, etc.
If you plan to be nice to your ratchet straps (leave them in the cab, lubricate them every so often, etc) then the basic ones will work just fine. That was my original plan. In reality, I am too lazy for that, and would often leave them in the bed for months on end, covered in sand and salt water, rained on, etc. So after 2 years, the original straps are rusted to hell and it's time to toss them.
This week I just got in a set of the stainless ones, which cost about twice as much. I intend to just leave 4 of them in the bed 24/7/365, with extras in the cab, I expect these ones will last much longer.
I've experimented with a few types of attachment point fittings. Of these 3, I love the middle one the best, then the one on the left, and do not like the last one as much.
The problem with the last one is the plastic housing. Which does not affect its strength at all -- the breaking strength / WLL is identical compare to the metal housing one. It's just that the plastic housing tends to stick to the shaft a bit, and tends to grab onto the track only halfway sometimes, which is annoying.
The top strap here is made for motorcycle handlebars. I've never used it for that, but I do use it to add length or flexibility to the ratchet straps. If you want to stack multiple rows of tanks as described above, these really come in handy.
The bottom strap is a cinch strap. It's got velcro on one side, smooth on the other side. Nice for keeping your straps tidy when storing them, also good for stuff like extension cords or a regulator set.
The aluminum L-track comes in a few colors, pre-drilled and pre-countersunk every 6 inches. Sold by the foot. Get a foot longer than you need, then cut down to exact size with a hacksaw. Once installed, Sharpie the stainless machine screws to make them black if you want
The cab-side rail is held on by a dozen or so stainless flathead machine screws. I just drilled holes right through the bed. Secured each one with a fender washer, lock washer, and stainless nut.
Could have gone with a little shorter length here, but the extra length is actually really nice because you have to squeeze your fingers down that tiny little space between the bed and the cab, so you want something easy to hold onto.
My 2009 Tundra didn't come with the stock Toyota rails. But it did come with the attachment points for it already pre-drilled and pre-threaded. To make use of these, I had to drill and countersink matching holes in the L-track. That worked, but didn't seem strong enough, so I added a few more attachment points near the ladder rack / camper shell holes at the 4 corners of the bed.
One of my "bonus" attachment points, as seen through the ladder rack hole. Whoops, looks like I forgot the lock washer on this guy! But it's still super tight, and I haven't fidgeted with it in over 2 years, so honestly I'm not too concerned about it.
Hope this helps someone
