would like advice gearing up for fresh water

[Chillin]

been putting away some cash to finish up my gear for fresh water. Have been doing most of my diving in salt on holidays, but am now diving into the great lakes.

I am currently using: APEKS 1st & 2nd stages and a DUI CF200 Dry suit, but want to trade in my Dive Rite Trans Pac II & Rec Wing for a backplate & wing (do i really need a 90# lift???) and get some doubles & stages (would like feedback on bottles & valves because i want to purchase my own).

Last would be the dive light...

i am going to be broke, but hopefully happy!

J

 

[MechDiver]

been putting away some cash to finish up my gear for fresh water. Have been doing most of my diving in salt on holidays, but am now diving into the great lakes.

I am currently using: APEKS 1st & 2nd stages and a DUI CF200 Dry suit, but want to trade in my Dive Rite Trans Pac II & Rec Wing for a backplate & wing (do i really need a 90# lift???) and get some doubles & stages (would like feedback on bottles & valves because i want to purchase my own).

Last would be the dive light...

i am going to be broke, but hopefully happy!

J

If you read through the Tech forum here you'll get ideas for tanks, deco (I assume you meant these and not stage) bottles and regs.

No, you don't need a 90# wing, 55# should do nicely.

MD

 

[yknot]

been putting away some cash to finish up my gear for fresh water. Have been doing most of my diving in salt on holidays, but am now diving into the great lakes.

I am currently using: APEKS 1st & 2nd stages and a DUI CF200 Dry suit, but want to trade in my Dive Rite Trans Pac II & Rec Wing for a backplate & wing (do i really need a 90# lift???) and get some doubles & stages (would like feedback on bottles & valves because i want to purchase my own).

Last would be the dive light...

i am going to be broke, but hopefully happy!

J

For fresh water it's hard to beat LP steel tanks, but that's just my opinion. Also, I think that any of the objections to painted tanks, such as the OMS branded Fabers, is significantly lessened in fresh water. The OMS valves are as well made as anything else I've seen. As far as a light, if I could justify the cost I'd look at a quality HID canister light.

 

[diverbob]

I dont know how much those canister lights run, but I imagine they arent cheap at all. I bought a standard C8 light, and was happy with it until my batteries went dead, and I borrowed a Light Cannon...wow...now that is a great light.

 

[Boogie711]

LOL - if you like a Light Cannon that much, you would just wet your drysuit if you ever got your hands on an HID cannister light. Especially a nice Helios 18w with the Goodman handle...

 

[DA Aquamaster]

The rec wing works ok for small diameter (6.75 to 6.9") doubles but for 7.25" dia and larger tanks the air cell gets pinched between the aircell and backplate. The classic works a lot better as it is a little wider.

Given the popularity of HID technology, you can get a used halogen cannister light for relatively little money. For murky water I prefer a halogen light anyway.