Workhorse Pony Reg: MK5, MK10, MK10 SPEC?

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I've bought one with 2 HP ports that were 3/8". It's really no big deal, you just get a HP adapter that's readily available. The real question IMO with regards to buying used MK5s is the condition of the turret bolt. This is one case where the ideal MK5 might be an old style with only 2 LP ports and has the turret that's held in place by a circlip. You would not need to worry if some knucklehead has severely overtorqued the soft brass bolt and stressed it.

The only problem would be that the old 2-port MK5 would also have the lighter yoke, but maybe you could use the same yoke bolt with a 3000PSI yoke. Someone should know that.
 
Thanks for the info Matt. I have a couple of eBay wins on the way and am looking forward to see exactly what first stages are in the package (really bad pictures).

Henrik
 
Thanks for the info Matt. I have a couple of eBay wins on the way and am looking forward to see exactly what first stages are in the package (really bad pictures).

Henrik

It's almost like Christmas. Enjoy
 
What Henrik really needs is a Honker....I just so happen to have one. ;-)
 
What Henrik really needs is a Honker....I just so happen to have one. ;-)

If you ever want to sell your honker, there's a dive operator in Maui who uses only Honkers in his rental fleet so he always knows when someone gets low on air.

I can't remember which guy it is, but we always thought that was a good idea.
 
Thanks Beano, ....yeah, I have that Honker and an assortment of other regulators that most likely will not see any H2O unless they find another home. If you hear from this guy, please put us in touch.

c
 
It's almost like Christmas. Enjoy

It really *is* almost like Christmas - thank you :D

I got a couple of packages today - yay. The batch I bought for the 2 R109s in it was a tad disappointing; the soft parts on the one R109 is crumbling. The other one however is fine, and the first stages turned out to be 1st and 2nd generation MK5s. One of them with an LP splitter bolted on.

As far as I've read there are few to no soft parts available for the R109. Maybe Luis will get those repro exhaust T-s going .... hint, hint :)

The other batch was a decent looking G250 with a nice late model MK10 with grove and DIN fitting . Very cool.

Couv; I was watching an eBay auction for a batch including a honker, but went for MK5 & R109s instead. Of course, as someone else said; with the honker I could take a few lbs off my weight belt :wink:

I'll post a few pictures when I get it all apart and sorted.

Henrik
 
I couldn't help myself and took the "worst" R109 apart tonight :D

As suspected the soft parts are toast; the diaphragm cover crumbled when I took it out (it was stuck pretty good); the exhaust T came off with some care, but has dry-rot all over; the exhaust valve was completely stiff and crumbled. Surprisingly the diaphragm - one of the old, black ones - is still supple. Go figure.

The front cover is a bit beat with lots of small scratches - most of them not through the chrome though. The back cover has a few scratches and some chrome wear where the soft parts were. The inside of the back cover has lost pretty much all of the chroming and is dark gray with some dark, bare brass patches.

The inner, small parts are all in fairly good condition; the orifice is old style chromed brass, and the adjustment knob is old style also with full diameter between the threads and the o-ring groove.

I gave all the bits a soak and wash in mild dishwashing solution and got much of the crud off. I then gave it all a bath in 50/50 vinegar solution - which didn't do too much of a difference, other than further expose/show off the bare brass inside the back case.

All in all, lots of fun, and I think with some fresh parts, this would end up a fully functioning regulator. I'm also pleasantly surprised at how simple the design is. I think that with some more reading (I bought both Vance Harlow's book and Regulator Savvy) and a some practice runs, I'd be comfortable rebuilding one of these myself.

Questions:

- is it possible to exchange the roll pin for the newer style D-clip?

- how about re-chroming the cases and the adjustment knob? I realize there are thickness issues in particular for threaded parts/sections.

Thanks all for getting me started in this, with all your excellent tech posts and advice.

Henrik
 
Yes you can easily replace the cotter-type pin with a D clip. It might be the same part as the G250V uses, so it might actually be a current SP part. Wouldn't that be nice.

Every so often there's a thread about re-chroming these. Luis would know a lot about it.

Keep your eyes open and you'll find the diaphragm cover and exhaust tee. The diaphragm and valve are current SP parts so no problem getting those.

If you're converting to balanced, you'll need the s-wing poppet, G250 spring and balance chamber, and possibly a new lever. If not then all you need is the G200 kit.

Have fun!
 

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