Those are the "bad" alloy, they are worthless. You can argue until hades freezes over and it will do you no good. They worth is scrap metal, nothing more. The valves may be fine.
N
Why won't my LDS even inspect these tanks?
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Those are the "bad" alloy, they are worthless. You can argue until hades freezes over and it will do you no good. They worth is scrap metal, nothing more. The valves may be fine.
N
chrpai
Contributor
The valves have worth too.
They are still filled around here.
They are still filled around here.
ams511
Contributor
You do not need to take the tanks to the dive shop to be hydroed. You can take them directly to the hydro facility and have them do it. The problem will be for the VIP and then getting them filled.
It appears that these tanks were last hydoed in 92 and were not used since at least 1997 when the second hydro expired. In all likelihood these tanks are good if stored with air. My advice is to call around to different shops. If no one will fill them locally then try to sell them to someone with their own compressor.
OkByMe
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So if you want to keep those old tanks, you can, but have them eddy current tested first. if they pass have them hydro statically tested. If they pass have the shop shop re-certify them as 3AL and your LDS should do a VIS and fill. Any shop that does fire extenguisher or industrial gas work should be able to service them. Don't take them to the LDS. First they will tell you they are dangerous, then they will try to sell you some new ones.
Aluminum... I still have and use 3 US Divers tanks from the 70's. I started out with 5. Since I have my own compressor, I do maintenance on all my tanks and don't have to depend on anyone for inspections or air. I do have them hrydro'ed every 5. The tanks that don't get much use are stored with less than 200PSI. I inspect every year or so, more often for the ones with a lot of cycles, with a product called ZyGlow. if there is a crack, it will leech into it and glow with a black light. Any doubts about or evidence, I will go have it Eddy tested. I had 1 that failed and another that was getting so beat up I canned it.
All replacements have been mid and high pressure Faber. Owning your own tanks, especially if can re-furbish used ones, is both convenient and cost effective. In fact, I just bought a 2 year old 133HP Faber for $214. If you have to leave tanks for a fill, you can always have a few to go with and swap them out when you get back. The only problem is that you have to play the "VIS" game. I pay $20 for hydro and $18 for Eddy test. If you buy steel, it is even better since you can drop the VIS. and Eddy.
I bought a used compressor (3.5cfm - 4500PSI) for $1500 with 6 hours on it, put $1600 in it, have had it since 2006 and figure I have saved at least that much or more. When you figure in the cost of NITROX and Tri-mix, you can save a bunch blending your own and don't have to accept pre-mixes. And since my scuba Dudes pitch in for some of the cost, I almost dive for free. I have never had any oil or rust, because I know where the air comes from.
My compressor, with all filters (6), auto dumps (3) and controls is portable @ 160lbs 40"x24"x36". It fits into the back of the SUV. If I can get a 4wire dryer outlet, it is fully automatic. 3 wire, I have to manually dump, but the pressure cutoff still works. Most camp grounds have 3 wire 240v. In a pinch, I have a 240v generator with a gas engine with a 30' extension cord to keep it away and down wind. IF I don't take my boat, I have a trailer for all the gear (paintball), If I do, the gear stores in the boat. So where ever I go, I set up "SCUBA CAMP" or "paintball headquarters"
Aluminum... I still have and use 3 US Divers tanks from the 70's. I started out with 5. Since I have my own compressor, I do maintenance on all my tanks and don't have to depend on anyone for inspections or air. I do have them hrydro'ed every 5. The tanks that don't get much use are stored with less than 200PSI. I inspect every year or so, more often for the ones with a lot of cycles, with a product called ZyGlow. if there is a crack, it will leech into it and glow with a black light. Any doubts about or evidence, I will go have it Eddy tested. I had 1 that failed and another that was getting so beat up I canned it.
All replacements have been mid and high pressure Faber. Owning your own tanks, especially if can re-furbish used ones, is both convenient and cost effective. In fact, I just bought a 2 year old 133HP Faber for $214. If you have to leave tanks for a fill, you can always have a few to go with and swap them out when you get back. The only problem is that you have to play the "VIS" game. I pay $20 for hydro and $18 for Eddy test. If you buy steel, it is even better since you can drop the VIS. and Eddy.
I bought a used compressor (3.5cfm - 4500PSI) for $1500 with 6 hours on it, put $1600 in it, have had it since 2006 and figure I have saved at least that much or more. When you figure in the cost of NITROX and Tri-mix, you can save a bunch blending your own and don't have to accept pre-mixes. And since my scuba Dudes pitch in for some of the cost, I almost dive for free. I have never had any oil or rust, because I know where the air comes from.
My compressor, with all filters (6), auto dumps (3) and controls is portable @ 160lbs 40"x24"x36". It fits into the back of the SUV. If I can get a 4wire dryer outlet, it is fully automatic. 3 wire, I have to manually dump, but the pressure cutoff still works. Most camp grounds have 3 wire 240v. In a pinch, I have a 240v generator with a gas engine with a 30' extension cord to keep it away and down wind. IF I don't take my boat, I have a trailer for all the gear (paintball), If I do, the gear stores in the boat. So where ever I go, I set up "SCUBA CAMP" or "paintball headquarters"
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