What temps determine the need for a "cold water" regulator?

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Last two free flows (other divers on the boat, not me) I was on a dive with were at temps of 55 and 48 degrees. It is believed that triggering the LPI and breathing was too much....Get cold water equipment if you are even "close"....

Metal air barrel seconds as a minimum (SP G250V), and all metal is better (the old 156 rocks!). Diaphragm firsts are my first choice (SP MK-17). There are others that fit this category just as well, but I am not familiar with them.

I still speculate that some of the high performance regs are too high flowing, and contribute too much to the potential. De-tuning them might be a better idea...
 
Funny you metion Sub Gear. ScubaPro dealers are now selling them as their budget line if you will.

OMG. Frankly you'd be better off buying an old MK2 on Ebay. Even a new Mk2 is $175 on Leisurepro. How much more "budget" do you need to go?

R..
 
I've now heard from both of quarries I plan on diving and they each report bottom temps of 52-54. In my original post I threw a mid-40s temp out there for good measure (before the 2nd quarry had contacted me back) but I now have definite numbers, and they all appear to be in the green.

So the lowest temps I'll be experiencing will be mid to low 50s, and that will be on rare occasions.

At this point I feel good about getting the reg set I mentioned. I'd still like to become better educated about tuning, diaphragm vs piston, dry vs oil, etc before I decide on purchasing.


Thanks.
 
OMG. Frankly you'd be better off buying an old MK2 on Ebay. Even a new Mk2 is $175 on Leisurepro. How much more "budget" do you need to go?

R..

They are selling the whole Sub Gear line. Say it compares in quality and performance to Scuba Pro. Just less expensive and less frills. Johnson Outdoors that owns SP bought up Sub Gear and I guess the whole kit and kaboodle are part of the dealer agreement or at least an option.
 
That's really comparing apples to oranges though. It's like when Mares bought Dacor. Dacor had some really crappy regulators and the fact that Mares owned them didn't change that.

The only really good reason to buy Subgear would be so you could break it apart and sell some of the pieces and get them out of the market.... actually the very same reason Mares bought Dacor.

R..
 
Actually ScubaPro took their successful Aladin Prime dive computer, changed the color here and there, and renamed it the Subgear XP10. Same button confuguration, same software, same... well, different colors.

Was this ScubaPro's attempt to repair the reputation of their newly acquired company? Perhaps. That WOULD allow ScubaPro to use the Subgear name as a testing platform *if* they could get customers to return to Subgear.
 
Can only share what was stated by Jim Lapenta amd rotunder. Below 50F/10C I wouldn't dive with equipment that is not foreseen for 'cold water', neither would I do it without a redundant equipment.

Not only because of the cold water, but also because of possible free flows or higher air throughput in case of stress situations ( by yourself, or while assisting your buddy with air).


So, getting back to the initial question, I guess one can consider the 50F/10C as a kind of threshold temperature for changing to a 'cold water adapted' regulator.







Originally Posted by ganu76
(I've searched around but haven't seen this question asked here.)

I'm looking for my first reg set (likely a Mares Ranger 12 w/ MV octo) but I have a concern about the definition of "cold water". I intend to continue to train in a local quarry where bottom temps will be right around 50 degrees. (Let's err on the side of caution and dip into the mid 40s.)

With that being said, should I expect any problems with a normal regulator, given the above temps? Should I limit my searches to cold water regs only?

Thanks in advance.


G

I agree with Jim Lapenta. Under 10C/50F and I'm not comfortable using a regulator that isn't spec'd for cold water. That might sound overly cautious but don't forget that expanding gasses cool down and it's entirely possible in 10C water that a short free-flow (for example, taking the reg out of your mouth for some reason and forgetting to point the mouthpiece down) could cause the regulator to develop temperatures inside the first and 2nd stages that could theoretically freeze 10C water. That said, I don't think it's a huge risk in the temperatures you mentioned but my attitude is for the extra money it's a potential problem that can be avoided.

R..
 
I absolutely understand the reasoning behind the 50°/free-flow scenarios given. Since any dive I make at the 52° or 54° range will be rare, I feel comfortable with getting a regular "warm" water reg.
 
The MK25 does have an anti freeze design, it's called the TIS (thermal insulating system?) it's basically a plastic sleeve that is designed to break up ice forming on the piston, and not let ice build up on the spring, and some fins on the turret to help with heat transfer. How well it works is another story. Lots and lots of people use the MK25 in very cold water, but you do hear about freezes with it, particularly with some 2nd stages. All metal 2nds are excellent for cold water protection as they transfer heat really well.

Fully sealed regulators, either diaphragm or piston, are likely to be more freeze resistant.

If you don't have a drysuit, I wouldn't be too concerned about your reg feezing, chances are your butt will freeze long before your reg does!
 
While I think it is probably better to get "cold water" regulator for 50F water, but I highly doubt 50F is the kind of temperature that can cause free flow unless something go wrong to begin with, say that "something wrong" cause the start of the free flow, then free flow cause freezing of the regulator and sustain the free flow. That "something wrong" could be equipment malfucntion, some strange things the divers do. I have never seen or heard a reg frozen due to normal breathing in my water.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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