What factor is most important to *you* when you choose a dive computer?

[InselAffe]

My 2bars worth..

1) Reliability/Servicability
My first computer in '97 was und still is a Suunto Spyder (not Stinger), I wear it daily still, I service it myself and while it is old, it is conservative. I bought a Liquivision Lynx with sender about 6 months after it was released the computer is great. But... my first sender exploded after a few months, which they replaced, note in the meantime they made a metal sender. So it's the only point where I may have some concern. My Sunnto used to cost 50GBP/14mnth to service which felt like alot, now it costs 2€. But servicing comes before cost, always.
2) Useability
If you like night dives or dive underwater cliffs where light is sparse, then a colourful LED display is the only way. I wear small headlamps to use my Spyder (LCD) but what I like is both computers give fair warning before the batteries get low. Normally they need little to no playing-with underwater.
The LqV Lynx has the problem if it enters Radar mode (think the motion tracker from Aliens) it's a bugger to get out of it, the display is big enough for all info but it could have been better handled.
3) Gases & Algo's
Sorry I'm an air guy with RMV of 9-12ltr/m, so as said I find it nice to dive with a conservative computer (Sunnto) and my Lynx which I call a Ferrari. As in it is really hard to get it to require a deco stop more than the 3min/5m, again I'm diving to 40m and in no rush to surface. Like my buddies we always meet the requirement of the most conservative computer.

What would I recommend, my buddies are all heading from LqV X1's towards the Shearwater Pertel/Perdix but they are techies going to 90m, for a newbie I would say you need the ability to set diver conservatism. Regardless rec divers will stop using tables and trust their computers (too much), if this is you, please buy a second computer. I have a special stare for those on holiday who say 'you have 2 can I borrow 1' but I suffer the 'what was our dive time & depth?' from a non-buddy.
I have however dived too often with enough schools where we go to 40m, require a 9m stop and watch all the students rise with the DM even though they arrived a few minutes after him, tables are what they use later to eat & drink off...

 

[scubadada]

...Sorry I'm an air guy with RMV of 9-12ltr/m...

If you haven't already, enter your RMV into the poll in Basic Scuba Discussions. Looks like your average is probably in the 0.3-0.39 cu ft/min (8.5-11.2 l/min) range (imperial to metric conversion on page 1 and 4 of the thread

 

[RonR]

I wonder how much battery life you'd get out of a eInk/ePaper display. That should work great for sunny reef diving and at night you can just shine your light at it. You could probably offer the same unit with eInk or OLED/TFT screens with a little design cleverness.
...

E-ink displays only use power when changing, and a minuscule amount then, they would be very efficient. Unfortunately, at least the last time I checked in with that technology, the update speed is too slow to work well with a dive computer type application. But no doubt the technology will improve.

-Ron

 

[dmaziuk]

Hmm. My Nook seems to be redrawing a full page of text fast enough... I can sort of see the need for fast redraw for the compass and depth gauge maybe and even then: if they're changing that fast, you may be doing something wrong.

 

[KeithG]

- large legible display
- self activating (my first computer had a single button that had to be pressed every 6 hours)
- ALL information on the main display while underwater
- ability to last at least 2 weeks of diving without need to battery fiddle
- ability to dowload dive profiles to a computer
- glo in the dark or backlight for night diving

i currently use uwatec aladins from around 1995ish.

 

[The Chairman]

- large legible display

- ability to last at least 2 weeks of diving without need to battery fiddle

Those two work against each other. The clearer/brighter the display, the shorter the battery life. I'm happy to change batteries as needed if I can read the PDC easily. The battery change in the Petrel 2/Perdix is so quick and easy. You only need a quarter.

 

[KeithG]

Those two work against each other. The clearer/brighter the display, the shorter the battery life. I'm happy to change batteries as needed if I can read the PDC easily. The battery change in the Petrel 2/Perdix is so quick and easy. You only need a quarter.

this depends upon the technology. my uwatecs go multiple years between battery changes since they are not continuously backlit. downside is that you have to squeeze the computer to manually activate the screen light at night. my older model simply glows after you shine a flash light on it - same as my spg.

 

[The Chairman]

this depends upon the technology.

It also depends on what you're willing to accept. I dive caves, rebreathers and don't want the task of looking at my PDCs to be problematic. It only takes me 15 seconds to pop in another battery into my Petrel 2.

 

[tbzep]

Those two work against each other. The clearer/brighter the display, the shorter the battery life. I'm happy to change batteries as needed if I can read the PDC easily. The battery change in the Petrel 2/Perdix is so quick and easy. You only need a quarter.

Same goes for my Liquivision Kaon. Unfortunately, the batteries are made of unobtanium. I'd much rather have one that runs off a AA that can be found anywhere for pennies.

 

[The Chairman]

I'd much rather have one that runs off a AA that can be found anywhere for pennies.

The Petrel 2 can run off of a single AA or the rechargeable 14500. I like having choices like that.