Weight System for BP&W

[2airishuman]

I have the DSS BP/W and use the Mako rubber belt with hard lead. I'm pleased with it.

I use the Mako "pinch" weights up to a total of around 10 pounds then switch to conventional hard weights, mainly for cost reasons.

In a 7mm two piece I typically have the DSS ballast plates plus another 10 pounds ditchable, in fresh water, with a steel tank. The 20 pounds you're using is not unreasonable in the ocean, but it is awkward to carry. You might consider selecting a more negative cylinder to reduce the weight on your belt. I have an HP95 that is 10 pounds negative when empty that is ideal in those situations, for example.

 

[NorCalDM]

I use the Apeks surelock weight pockets and the pockets attachments. You can use the pockets by themselves they slip onto your waist strap or as I use them with the pocket attachments bolted to the plate. My son's plate is not an Apeks so we just drilled a hole in the plate to match the pocket attachment and it works just fine.

 

[crapwheresmyreg]

Thank you all for the suggestions. It looks like I now have some options. Im thinking of mounting 10 lbs to the cam bands and carrying the other 10 on a ditchable weight belt. Hopefully in the next 6 months I can start getting the amount of weight I need to carry reduced. Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it.

 

[MAKO Spearguns]

Hello All,
I got to take my new BP&W out for a first test drive on Sunday and it was absolutely awesome. I feel there are some fitment issues I need to address, but overall its much more comfortable than the jacket style BC I am used to. The main issue I had was that the weight belt I was using wouldn't stay on. I dive in Monterey with a 7mm suit. I got a nylon belt with some integrated pouches and while it was marginal on land, It kept working its way down below my butt in the water. I feel this is most likely because of the suit compression at depth. So for those of you using a BP&W, what are you using for a weight belt? I need about 20lbs of weights to get down, after my integrated weight plates. Any help is appreciated!

Yes, if you are diving a thick neoprene wetsuit, then suit compression is significant. Many people find that they either have to over- tighten a nylon belt before descent or tighten it when they get to depth and then may have to loosen it on the way up.

Over tightening a belt is a bad idea for several reasons: it can be uncomfortable, makes it hard to breathe comfortably and may also put more stress on the buckle than is good. As a few others have mentioned, an elastic (rubber) freedive belt has some distinct advantages.

The rubber belt itself tends to grip the suit better so it has much less tendency to spin or slide on the diver. The elasticity also helps to compensate for suit compression at depth and should eliminate the need for adjustments in tension during the dive. In addition, because it is elastic, it tends to stay where you put it and it won't slide down. This attribute also tends to make the belt more comfortable, especially for people with low back issues. The elasticity allows it to be worn in several different locations, and also low on your butt, so it is not pulling on the low back.

20 lbs of lead on a rubber belt is approaching the practical limits, but as others have said, it may make sense to distribute some ballast on various locations on your harness and carry only the amount you feel that you want ditchable on the belt.

6 or 8 lbs on a rubber belt should feel very comfortable and 12 or 15 lbs should not be an issue, if you are wearing a thick suit. Wearing the belt low also puts it lower than the BC/harness waist strap, so there is no conflict or confusion.

Lastly, the weight belt buckle pictured in this thread is different than most scuba divers are familiar with, but it is easily and instantly ditch-able, should the need arise. The elasticity of the belt and the configuration of the buckle, cause the pin to spring open when the end of the belt is pulled. We have a demo video on our website, if you are curious.

Dive Safe
Dano

 

[CuzzA]

I think it's worth mentioning that if you have to ditch your Mako ballast in an emergency, Dano, will replace it free of charge... Who else is going to do that for you?

* I have no self serving invested interest in Mako Spearguns. Just my opinion.

 

[MAKO Spearguns]

I think it's worth mentioning that if you have to ditch your Mako ballast in an emergency, Dano, will replace it free of charge... Who else is going to do that for you?

* I have no self serving invested interest in Mako Spearguns. Just my opinion.

There is that too!!

 

[george_austin]

Once you go rubber on the weight belt - you won't go back to resin impregnated nylon

 

[Billy Northrup]

Monterey diver here: With a plate and 20lbs I'm going to assume an aluminum tank. It's a good time to transition to a steel tank (6-8lbs) and add some pockets like those presented above. Large amounts of ditchable weight scare me and a 5lb pocket on each side are easily manageable.

 

[crapwheresmyreg]

Monterey diver here: With a plate and 20lbs I'm going to assume an aluminum tank. It's a good time to transition to a steel tank (6-8lbs) and add some pockets like those presented above. Large amounts of ditchable weight scare me and a 5lb pocket on each side are easily manageable.

I was wearing a steel HP100. Im a bigger guy and seem to be extra bouyant. its a problem.

 

[sunnyboy]

Try the DUI classic weight & trim system. I used those for years now and love them, especially if you need say 20lbs. In the DUI, 4x5 hard weights fits perfectly and you hardly know it's there. Bonus - it won't shift underwater like a weight belt, and puts the weight on shoulders instead of kidneys.

I started with lots of weight on a weight belt. I even lost a belt (almost) at 100ft on a wreck, but recovered and learned a lesson. Now it's a harness for security. The DUI also has ditchable pockets so you can still ditch if necessary.