Weight pockets position

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I got all worked up about this then I did some fun pool things:
1) Did some laps in a weight belt only, adding weight til it was too much. 6-8 lbs ok, 10 lbs hard.
2) swam around in no neoprene picking up and dropping a 10lb brick they had for lifeguard training at my pool. Kinda hard but doable.
3) took the wing off my vintage plastic plate and swam around in the pool wearing my 3 mil and a HP 80 steel tank. I was a bit negative, head awash. I found out one reason why early pre BC divers liked snorkles. It was easy to glide around just under the surface, but hard to raise my head. Would have been nice to have a snorkle. But again, doable. Want to try in salt.

My advice is play with your toys. See what your body can do. You might feel less worried about 5 or 6 lbs.
 
U
Why don't you give a straight link?
have to sign up for the free classes to access it. U also agree to not let anyone else use your acct to access the classes paid or free. So I am abiding by my agreement
 
A great video! This video by Steve Martin (as recommended by @Cyborg Pirate) is free.
Thank you!

Since this is the Basic forum, let's look at this a little further, and see why @Cyborg Pirate and I are actually not disagreeing!
First, his observation that many divers are significantly overweighted is absolutely correct! Overweighting has contributed to many diving mishaps, and not a few deaths. At the very least, excess weight makes for difficult buoyancy control, especially in the final 15 feet.

And what happens in the last 15 feet is the key subtlety to why a diver may or may not float with his/her head out of water with a full breath and full tanks at the beginning of a dive. What is the only difference between @Cyborg Pirate 's comment and mine? Wetsuit thickness.

Cold water divers and warm water divers are often taught to do their buoyancy checks differently. The key difference (after agreeing to float at eye level with a mid-breath lung volume and an EMPTY bcd) is whether or not one's tanks are at 500 psi, or full. In my example (and what only seemed to be a disagreement with @Cyborg Pirate ) I supposed a 5mm wetsuit. With that configuration, it is better to do a buoyancy check with a near-empty tank (or to do it with a full tank and then ADD the weight of the volume of air that will be breathed off before you splash). Why? Because the objective is to be neutrally buoyant at the end of a dive at 15 feet, when the wetsuit is somewhat compressed by the extra 0.5 atm of water pressure.
In the video above, we have a colder water diver, wearing a 7mm wetsuit and hood. With this equipment configuration, there is more buoyancy loss due to wetsuit compression at 15 feet. Therefore, cold water divers often do their weight check with FULL tanks as shown in the video. In the video above, using a 12L tank, floating at eye-level with an 80% breath (three fingers displayed in the video) means that you will start to sink with a mid-breath (two fingers displayed), as the video shows. That means that at the end of a dive, with 5lb of air breathed off, you will float high at the surface, which is higher than you would with the 5mm weight check I described in my post. That is appropriate, because at 15 feet, with more relative wetsuit compression than with a thinner suit, there will be more buoyancy loss.

This all translates out to exactly the same objective: being neutral at 15 feet with your tank nearing its end-of-dive pressure, with NO air in your bcd.

So @Cyborg Pirate and I didn't differ about wanting to be neutral. I assumed with the term "recreational" a thinner wetsuit. The excellent video was in conditions requiring thicker exposure protection, and requiring a slight adjustment to PADI's neutral buoyancy check: do your check with a FULL tank.

To examine this issue in more detail, and see how 0# buoyancy at 15 feet at the end of a dive yields eye-level with a thin wetsuit, but head high in a thick one, take a peak at the numbers in this spreadsheet:
Buoyancy, Balanced Rigs, Failures and Ditching – a comprehensive tool
The buoyancy change between 15 feet and the surface can be an eye-opener, depending upon your exposure suit.

No matter how you attack the issue, we agree on one thing: DON'T BE OVERWEIGHTED. It hurts your trim, increases your air consumption due to increased drag from the gas you need to carry in your bcd, and poses a safety risk in the event of equipment failure.

Dive Safe!
 
A great video! This video by Steve Martin (as recommended by @Cyborg Pirate) is free.
Thank you!

Since this is the Basic forum, let's look at this a little further, and see why @Cyborg Pirate and I are actually not disagreeing!
First, his observation that many divers are significantly overweighted is absolutely correct! Overweighting has contributed to many diving mishaps, and not a few deaths. At the very least, excess weight makes for difficult buoyancy control, especially in the final 15 feet.

And what happens in the last 15 feet is the key subtlety to why a diver may or may not float with his/her head out of water with a full breath and full tanks at the beginning of a dive. What is the only difference between @Cyborg Pirate 's comment and mine? Wetsuit thickness.

Cold water divers and warm water divers are often taught to do their buoyancy checks differently. The key difference (after agreeing to float at eye level with a mid-breath lung volume and an EMPTY bcd) is whether or not one's tanks are at 500 psi, or full. In my example (and what only seemed to be a disagreement with @Cyborg Pirate ) I supposed a 5mm wetsuit. With that configuration, it is better to do a buoyancy check with a near-empty tank (or to do it with a full tank and then ADD the amount of air that will be breathed off before you splash). Why? Because the objective is to be neutrally buoyant at the end of a dive at 15 feet, when the wetsuit is somewhat compressed by the extra 0.5 atm of water pressure.
In the video above, we have a colder water diver, wearing a 7mm wetsuit, hood and gloves. With this equipment configuration, there is more buoyancy loss due to wetsuit compression at 15 feet. Therefore, cold water divers often do their weight check with FULL tanks as shown in the video. In the video above, using a 12L tank, floating at eye-level with an 80% breath (three fingers displayed in the video) means that you will start to sink with a mid-breath (two fingers displayed), as the video shows. That means that at the end of a dive, with 5lb of air breathed off, you will float high at the surface, which is higher than you would with the 5mm weight check I described in my post. That is appropriate, because at 15 feet, with more relative wetsuit compression than with a thinner suit, there will be more buoyancy loss.

This all translates out to exactly the same objective: being neutral at 15 feet with your tank nearing its end-of-dive pressure, with NO air in your bcd.

So @Cyborg Pirate and I didn't differ about wanting to be neutral. I assumed with the term "recreational" a thinner wetsuit. The excellent video was in conditions requiring thicker exposure protection, and requiring a slight adjustment to PADI's neutral buoyancy check: do your check with a FULL tank.

To examine this issue in more detail, and see how 0# buoyancy at 15 feet at the end of a dive yields eye-level with a thin wetsuit, but head high in a thick one, take a peak at the numbers in this spreadsheet:
Buoyancy, Balanced Rigs, Failures and Ditching – a comprehensive tool
The buoyancy change between 15 feet and the surface can be an eye-opener, depending upon your exposure suit.

No matter how you attack the issue, we agree on one thing: DON'T BE OVERWEIGHTED. It hurts your trim, increases your air consumption due to increased drag from the gas you need to carry in your bcd, and poses a safety risk in the event of equipment failure.

Dive Safe!
Very well said rsingler! I agree dive safe!!!
 
Get rid of the BCD as quickly as you can. Get a back plate and wing. You will either end up with a) no weight belt (Better trim) or b) less weight on your weight belt (Better trim). When I did my OW 10 years ago the local LDS tried to sell me on a BCD. I bought an OMS plate and wing instead. Never looked back. My trim went for terrible to 100% better the following day. Just my 2 cents.
I am using Oxycheq wing already but I don't want to use back plate. It is because I need to carry them from home to the diving site/boat which are quite heavy. That's why I prefer to use weight pockets, I can just get the weight blocks on the boat.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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