Vintage Diver's only: Question on J Valve Reserve Rod

[mahjong]

Does anyone have any advice on how effectively to secure a J valve reserve actuating rod, particularly on twin tanks when the tank bands to not have the built-in groove to accommodate the actuating rod?

Thank you!

Note: This is not a discussion on the drawbacks of J valves, so no need to tell me to get a modern isolation manifold.

 

[Bob DBF]

Try what I use for my rod on a single tank cam band. Take a small piece of stainless strap, bend it 90 degrees and drill a hole in one side to put the rod through then slip the other side between the tank strap and the tank. Don't forget to round off all the corners.


Bob
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There is no problem that can't be solved with a liberal application of sex, tequila, money, duct tape, or high explosives, not necessarily in that order.

 

[tfsails]

Remove the rod, put the J valve in the down position, and get yourself an SPG. Problem solved!

 

[mahjong]

I follow you...many thanks!

Try what I use for my rod on a single tank cam band. Take a small piece of stainless strap, bend it 90 degrees and drill a hole in one side to put the rod through then slip the other side between the tank strap and the tank. Don't forget to round off all the corners.


Bob
-------------------------------------
There is no problem that can't be solved with a liberal application of sex, tequila, money, duct tape, or high explosives, not necessarily in that order.

 

[mahjong]

Even diving with an SPG and starting with the reserve turned off, if the knob is accidentally bumped "up" into the dive position during a dive it would be nice to have the rod to pull it back down, no?

Remove the rod, put the J valve in the down position, and get yourself an SPG. Problem solved!

 

[superstar]

Don't use a spg with a j-valve, it just seems wrong.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

Mahjong,

Don't listen to these clowns they know nothing, except for Bob, Bob you're cool.
I know what you're asking, let me help you.
One way would be to tig weld a small tab on the tank band and bend it over then curve it away so the J rod pushes and snaps in to the holder but has enough play that it will move freely. This would require that the band be removed and taken to a person that can weld and has a tig.
The easier option would be to get an extra cam band/buckle, like a plastic type, and wrap it around the tank on the side of the J rod. Position the cam band in such a way that the end tail with the velcro tab goes over the J rod with about an inch overlap and holds it in place. That's really all you need.

BTW, you can use an SPG with a J lever if you wish. It was considered a redundant safety device once upon a time in diving history.

 

[Thalassamania]

In the days most divers just ditched the rod, it jammed and got caught in kelp. To activate a J, you reached over your shoulder with your left hand.

 

[Scared Silly]

Take a 12 pack of good beer down to someone with plasma cutter or similar and have then cut the tab out, then bend accordingly for the rod.

 

[Bob DBF]

Don't use a spg with a j-valve, it just seems wrong.

There are J-valves made with a HP port for a SPG. They were probably made when SPG's started and were not considered reliable, since early J-valves did not have it and the later 3000# service J-valves do not have it.

I have a '70's vintage twin 72 J-valve manifold with the HP port and Dacor SPG that came with the rig originally. The galvanized bands made for a plastic backpack are priceless but I wish I could find an original backpack.


Bob
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Trained when J-valves solved the OOA problem.

I may be old, but I’m not dead yet.