Vehicle to pull a boat?

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Chevy Silverado Z71 1500 w/ a tow package. Get a commercial dealer in your area to quote you. They are giving them away. 0% down 0 % financing for five years ...$24-27k less you start buying extras. I bought mine last year and I tow a 20' pro-line ~ 4000lbs (including dive gear and fuel)...easily around san diego, big hills and steep ramps. I've owned many trucks (fords, toys, jeeps, mopars, and chevy's)but I must say I really like the silverados ..I own several (electrical contractor). I have yet to feel any weakness in the 1500 as far as towing, stopping, accelerating, etc..Not to mention they ride like a cadilac and tow like a MAC and the resale is high as well as the eyeball.

My last 3500 I literally ran for over 250k + miles without ever doing any major service other than a couple fuel pumps. Was building radio towers for the state of Ca and bouncing up and down fire trails to the top of mountain peaks towing generators, would knock the old fuel debris free and jam the impellars on the pumps. Sold it last month to a friend for slightly 1/2 of what I paid for it and he uses the "s" out of it still.
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I'll look into the vehicles you suggested. I also am worried about the whole gas mileage/carbon footprint thing and would like to get something thats reasonable on gas. I don't think I'll be taking the boat over any crazy long distances. I plan on living in Florida so the terrain shouldn't be too bad (mountains and such). It kind of depends on the boat I get too. Thanks for the input.

Nemrod, I really like the color of your new Tacoma. Whats that called? I'm pretty much torn between the Tacoma/Tundra and the Silverado. Luckily I've got a nice long 15 month deployment to decide.
 
You can't make a tow vehicle decision until you know what the boat is.

Find out what what the boat (with motor, trailer, battery, gas, etc) weighs. Then make sure your
tow vehicle has at least 30% excess tow capacity unless you are just towing a mile to the ramp.

Four wheel drive is handy on the ramp.

If you keep the boat in a slip, you need to:

schelp tanks to the boat and back
Pull it and have it bottom painted annually.
Haul your tools to the boat to work on it.
Worry about security.
Buy gas at fuel dock prices (OUCH)
Pay slip fees.

Can you tell that my boat is on a trailer? (17' Boston Whaler Montauk)

Take care, kick butt as required, come back safe.
 
BeachJunkie, you be careful over there and stay low--please. Save your dough, when you get home you can really look into it and meanwhile read all the magazines and all that.

Oh, let me direct you to www.hulltruth.com . It is a fishing and offshore forum mostly but there is a varied discussion there.

Indigo Ink, maybe by the time you get back the new diesel will be out. N
 
Oh BTW the Toyotas are all great trucks ...as you know they are the insurgents HUM-Vee...durable to the very end. I just happen to need the room of a Z71 and the 4 WD does come in handy on steep ramps.
 
When your running from the greatest military force since the Roman Empire you need the greatest truck on the planet--lol--the Toyota Tacoma Taliban Special. Special clearance, armor, machine gun mount, 4WD, plush sport seats and VSC. N
 
Nice ...N... Nice!!! the TTTS ...I'll have to pass that on tomorrow at Camp Pendleton
 
DSCF0961.jpg

Nemrod, you tow with the cover on?



A Jeep Wrangler is a nice vehicle but perhaps one of the worst tow vehicles there is. The short wheelbase coupled with high center of gravity is not a good combination at all.
N

I agree with that. they have engine power to tow a nice sized small boat, but the problem is the tow vehicle is light and very short wheelbase. If you have a heavy boat and are going around a corner and hit your jeep's brakes, the boat/trailer will push the rear end of the jeep out and jack-knife you with that light short wheelbase.



tow vehicle has at least 30% excess tow capacity unless you are just towing a mile to the ramp.

Four wheel drive is handy on the ramp.

If you keep the boat in a slip, you need to:
Buy gas at fuel dock prices (OUCH)
Pay slip fees.

All good points!


When your running from the greatest military force since the Roman Empire you need the greatest truck on the planet--lol--the Toyota Tacoma Taliban Special. Special clearance, armor, machine gun mount, 4WD, plush sport seats and VSC. N


and according to this pic from the news, they use ScubaPro regulator also. (see Scubapro logo on Toyota truck door)

Taliban_Scubapro.jpg
 
I have owned a number of boats in the 22' to 24' range, all have been towed hundered of miles with 2 wheel drive 1500 Chevy pickups or Surburbans with no problems. I currently have a 07 Surburban towing a 22' 5000# rig. Solo on the highway it will get 20 mpg and 15 mpg towing. It averages 17mpg solo. It has the active fuel managment system that shut off 4 cylinders under low load conditions. I have seen 23 mpg on a flat interstate with no A/C at 70 mph. With a locking rear end 4 wheel drive is really not needed. I have never spun the wheels pulling the boat out even with the tires in the water. There is plenty of room in the Surburban for gear security when traveling so you don't have to leave it in the boat or drag it into the motel room.
 
Well, upon returning from Afghanistan and getting out of the Army, I plan on purchasing a boat for diving. I've read through the "which boat" section and haven't decided what I will get but have an idea what to look for. I plan on moving to Florida and I was wondering how everyone gets their dive boats from one place to another. Do you keep it docked somewhere? or do you drive it from your house? If you dock it, how much does it cost per month and what are the maintenance things to check and do regularly? If you drive it, what kind of vehicle do you use? I currently have a 01 jeep wrangler. I'm doubting it will be enough to pull a boat but I don't know.

So, the short version, how much does it cost to keep a boat docked somewhere? If you trailer it back and forth, what do you use to pull it? Suggestions for engine size/vehicle type for boat length/type.

thanks for your time.

This process really begins with the boat you decide to purchase. But there are some things to think about in advance.

A slip is the most convenient (and most expensive), a mooring is the 2nd most convenient (less expensive), and trailing is the least convenient in my opinion and least expensive. Slip fees vary based on area and time of year. In Boston, a cheap slip is $125 a foot for May through October. It's a little less in other areas. There is nothing like driving to the marina, grabbing a cart, and rolling your gear right to the boat. Most marina's have good security and usually slip neighbors keep an eye out for each other whether a thief or a line has become fouled or such. A mooring is nice in that your boat is in the water and ready to go, but you need a dingy or water taxi to get back and forth. You can rent a mooring in Salem MA where I'm located for example for $1000 a summer (May - Oct). They do the maintenance, etc. I own my mooring. As a diver we can do our own service. You need to dive on it once a year and replace chain/shackles as necessary with just a few tools. (Don't expect a good air consumption rate for this effort - he he). With a slip or mooring you need to powerwash and apply bottom paint annually in your area. In the cold water of MA I can go two seasons on Petit Unepoxy. I pull my boat a few times a year to trailer to a different area. When I do this I powerwash the hull just to stay ahead of it. Even with good bottom paint, you will still get some slime and such and this affects fuel consumption, speed, etc. It's prudent to powerwash a few times a season.

When you trailer you don't need to worry about bottom paint or other things, but I find it a pain. Go to a marina on a warm day in July and it can be a long wait to get to the ramp. It's a hassle to find parking in many cases as well. It's certainly the least expensive means of keeping a boat though. I don't like loading gear at the house. It's a huge weight increase for the trailer and boat structure. It's probably OK, I just don't care for it. You also need to back your rig farther into the water to float the boat. If it's a shallow launch and low angle you need to back pretty far into the water. You also need to live in a place/area where you can keep the boat. Most apartment complex's would not allow you to keep a boat in the parking lot for example. There are some suburban communities where you cannot store a boat - even at your own house. This usually depends on the size of the boat.

You need to equip your boat with electronics suitable for your uses. At the very least, VHF radio, depth finder, compass, and a handheld GPS. (In addition the necessary USCG safety equipment including fire extinguiser, anchor, signal devices, life jackets, etc.) You will want insurance on the boat of course. This totally depends on the value of the boat and deductible, etc., etc. but is cheaper than car insurance. For a $20,000 boat for example you would be looking at about $400 a year. Many states offer discounts for those who are licensed or complete boaters safety courses. This again is the minimum, you may want to do things that require radar for example and now we're talking thousands of dollars for electronics. The electronics package for my next boat will be about $3400 before the other items I mentioned above.

Your 6cyl Jeep will pull an 18' boat but you would want to be very careful as noted by others.

Definitely take a boaters safety course. It's a great way to start off right and it may also save you money on insurance.
 
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