arkstorm
Contributor
I just acquired a couple of AL40's that I intend to set up as deco bottles. One has a valve and the other does not, so no matter what, I need to purchase at least one new valve. My intention is to set one bottle up for 100% O2 deco and the other for 50%.
DGX sells an "O2 Pro" valve and offers a "Tek Tip" with an explanation of "O2 valve" vs. the "nitrox ready valve" that is about as clear as mud.
In terms of specs...
The O2 valve opens more gradually (more turns to fully open), is lubricant free, and the inlet and outlet threads are non-plated brass. Cost is $75.
The nitrox ready valve has an ordinary opening valve (fewer turns to open), uses oxygen compatible lubricant, and has ordinary chrome plating at the inlet and outlet threads. Cost is $55.
For my 100% O2 bottle, will I need to use an "O2 valve" to obtain a 100% O2 fill?
Should I just splurge the extra $20 and not overthink it?
Should I put "O2 valves" on both bottles?
What is the best practice here?
DGX sells an "O2 Pro" valve and offers a "Tek Tip" with an explanation of "O2 valve" vs. the "nitrox ready valve" that is about as clear as mud.
In terms of specs...
The O2 valve opens more gradually (more turns to fully open), is lubricant free, and the inlet and outlet threads are non-plated brass. Cost is $75.
The nitrox ready valve has an ordinary opening valve (fewer turns to open), uses oxygen compatible lubricant, and has ordinary chrome plating at the inlet and outlet threads. Cost is $55.
For my 100% O2 bottle, will I need to use an "O2 valve" to obtain a 100% O2 fill?
Should I just splurge the extra $20 and not overthink it?
Should I put "O2 valves" on both bottles?
What is the best practice here?