UW housing float

[smellzlikefish]

Akimbo has my frustrations pinned. I find myself in blue water more often than not and was unpleasantly surprised when I saw how fast the rig sank. When the clip inevitably fails (and it already has once on me) if it was slightly positive, I'd have a shot at retrieval. As heavy as it is, if I lose my grip and the clip goes, it will probably be headed straight down for about a mile before it hits the bottom. That and it gives me elbow issues.

 

[danvolker]

You can buy PVC pipe at Home depot with end caps, and put one on each arm. They cost pennies, so you can experiment with how long each one needs to be, in order to make your whole system dead neutral.
My wife shoots a canon 5 d mark II in a Sea and Sea housing, with Inon strobes and then ultra light arms...We were sold the Stix nonsense, for several hundred dollars if I recall correctly, and they failed to get the system anywhere near neutral...there is really not that much positive bouyancy on the Stix floats. The PVC floats on the other hand, could float any camera, or make any camera system dead neutral. For pennies

When I found out how easy it was to get neutral buoyancy in the housing, for almost no cost with PVC, I actually got really pissed at the camera shop for selling cr*p that is very weak at floating a heavy housing. So if I sound like I have an attitude right now, I do

It is absolute stupidity for a shop to sell a housing and strobe set up, without KNOWING how to get it to dead neutral....No one should be holding a heavy camera underwater. This will actually cause mini dcs hits in many people, in their elbows and wrists and shoulders over time, from constricted muscles that never get to off-gas properly. You could say this is why so many old time u/w photographers have arthritis.
You could also say it is foolish to dive without getting your gear trimmed out, and having the camera pulling your head down with 5 to 8 pounds of downward force all the time, is pretty foolish.

You are right to question the whole flotation issue. But DO NOT accept the Stix solution unless they can show it will get you to perfect neutral....Of course there is the cost factor too.

 

[archiebald]

You can buy PVC pipe at Home depot with end caps, and put one on each arm. They cost pennies, so you can experiment with how long each one needs to be, in order to make your whole system dead neutral.
My wife shoots a canon 5 d mark II in a Sea and Sea housing, with Inon strobes and then ultra light arms...We were sold the Stix nonsense, for several hundred dollars if I recall correctly, and they failed to get the system anywhere near neutral...there is really not that much positive bouyancy on the Stix floats. The PVC floats on the other hand, could float any camera, or make any camera system dead neutral. For pennies

Great idea, any photos please??

 

[danvolker]

Great idea, any photos please??

I will shoot some of the system tomorrow..It is too late now

 

[muzikbiz22]

Interesting thread, thoughts. I too get a little Tendonitis in my right elbow, (from computer use, lifting things and I sleep in funny positions)and having the rig at "just shy of neutral buoyancy" helps big time. Stix floats ARE the key, at least with my situation. The rig consists of T2i, Aquatica housing, 2 Sea n Sea strobes, 4 each 8" ULCS arms, 6 clamps, 2 YS mounts, Tokina 10-17, 6" dome. The dome helps a little, as it's a big air pocket. My Stix float(s) count is 4 each smaller and 2 each bigger. All in all, just slightly negative. Rig is very easy to work and "drag around" underwater. Key fact - I never shoot macro, therefore I never have a big clunky heavy macro port on.

 

[danvolker]

Here is a quick shot of Sandra's rig...

The super macro set up, is actually quite close to the weight of her wide angle set up, due to the weight of the heavy glass in the big Zen dome. Both set ups are essentially neutral.

 

[a_squeakycat]

Sounds like a good solution. Are the endcaps sealed somehow so the don't leak water into the pipes ?

I will shoot some of the system tomorrow..It is too late now

 

[danvolker]

Sounds like a good solution. Are the endcaps sealed somehow so the don't leak water into the pipes ?

When you go to Home Depot ( or Ace Hardware, etc) the area that has the PVC pipes and endcaps, also has the special glue you use. It is a total seal, and Sandra has used these for over 8 months now with several dive4s well over 100 feet deep, and zero leakage...The wall thickness on these is such that I expect they would be fine on a 290 foot deep dive.
You buy a length of the pipe that you will cut with a hack saw, into the lengths you think will provide the bouyancy you want...you should have plenty left over.
You zip tie the pvc to the arms of the strobes.
The straps she has will clip to her Shoulder D Rings on Halcyon Bp/wing harness, if she wants to clip off the camera and be hands free. Most frequent use of these though is for carrying the camera several hundred yards, as when going from shore to car at the BHB Marine Park....the camera is heavy for your arms, but carried like this, it is easy.

The black plexiglass slate is a background to have under nudibranchs Gives you stuff like this below

 

[archiebald]

danvolker,
I like the simplicity but I think anyone that has to fly to their dive destination will have problems with "home-made, multiple tubular items" in their baggage

 

[danvolker]

I suppose you could have a spare set with only one side glued....so they can be inspected...then glue the other one on the night you arrive....remember, they are almost free, and very easy to make.\

I can't stress enough how important it is that your camera should be dead neutral.

Aside from avoiding micro dcs hits and arthritis, there is the whole issue of the trim, or lack of it in so many photographers

We should be able to swim flat horizontal when near the bottom without silting...but probably 90% of photagraphers leave a silt cloud behind them in this scenario.... this is in large part, due to the camera, but also it involves not caring about trim and bouyancy in general--often blaming this on the camera, as a reason not to deal with it.

I am sure the stix will work on some small cameras, or on cameras with really big housings that are more bouyant....
But you have to admit, they are a MAJOR RIP OFF !!!