Utility regulator

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

The hose barb free flows when valve turned on. To shut off, remove barb (handwheel) and spin on an 1/4 inch oxygen nut. Hand tight will do it. This depends on using an old style orifice with oxygen nipple. The new, miniature types are unitary (one piece) and one way to stop flow is to run a 6-32 tap into the barb and insert a screw with teflon washer. However, installing the unitary barb with a mini quick disconnect would be fine. Get the plug with female 1/8 npt. When doing surface treatment my first action would be to just hook up the mask, so the barb is left open and ready to connect to the mask tube. If a second person needs O2 there is the demand valve and quick connect. I should have ordered more plugs so I could have some options like another hose barb or air tool but didn't think of it at the time.

Very nice setup, I have been debating setting up something similar with a full face mask and demand valve...

Does your barbed outlet shut off or does it always flow when pressurized? I was thinking that a constant flow barb would be a good thing to have on a quick disconnect since you would likely only need the demand valve or constant flow. What do you think?
 
Speaking for me, if struck with bends but still mobile I would strap on the other (not pictured) regulator/tank and drop to 30 feet. The setup which is portrayed in this thread is strictly for an incapacitated diver or for someone who prefers to stay on deck. The other rig is conventional SCUBA, not "deco", it is "reco" or recompression. Only analog gauges are fitted to prevent computer lockout and a dead or weird display. But, yes, coov, as you say, that is preferred since the other option implies a more serious injury.
 
Use of adapters to fit the various gauges and attachments makes for a sturdy but somewhat bulky arrangement for purposes of packing and travelling. Not that it is a big deal but I went back to the work and took another look. The question is how to get rid of the adapters. I discovered that it is possible to rethread the 1/8 inch npt used on gauges, etc. Before doing that, screw the gauge into an 1/8 coupler or pipe. Chuck the coupler into a lathe and cut an O ring groove at the base of the gauge threads. Remove the gauge. Using a 3/8-24 die, cut new threads over the existing pipe thread on the gauge. Believe it or not it makes a beautiful, clean thread. The trick is to get started right. The 1/8 npt will naturally thread into the die about 1/4 turn. When it feels right, go ahead and run the die onto the pipe thread. I haven't finished a complete remake yet because I have to go over and use my buddy's lathe to cut the groove but I am sure it can be done---as sure as I can be without pressure testing. The Conshelf ports are 1/2 inch depth which should be enough room, fingers crossed.:wink:

I might play around with this come the new year. I'll need to acquire an old style Conshelf with small HP port as the rethread will only work with 3/8 fittings. As there are only two LP ports on this regulator it won't be practical to install an LP gauge. Just make a chisel mark on the bonnet corresponding to 120 psi. Merry Christmas, everybody.
Pesky
 
This Conshelf is set up as a utility for air tools, tires, booster drive, etc. Notice the OPV, swivel and compact tank press gauge. The output connector swivels 180 deg. IP is set at 115 psi. Most air tools use 100 psi and get pretty hammered by standard SCUBA pressures. Same for the Haskel.

I gave up on rethreading the large gauges for the other, oxygen regulator. It is just too hard to find regs with 3/8 hp ports and multiple lp's. So, to reduce overall size of the oxygen reg I'll probably substitute compact gauges as seen on the air tool regulator shown below.
103_0372.JPG

103_0371.JPG

103_0370.JPG
 
Sometimes, I talk glibly about stuff and forget to provide details. This memo is short (promise) and concerns 1/4 inch oxygen fittings. These are known as CGA 022 (B fitting in the industry). I got started using 1/4 oxygen (welding) hose because the Aqua Master regulator which I have previously used for utility purposes is fitted with a 1/4 oxygen female. In the photo above one can see that an oxygen hose is connected to the Conshelf. I found that oxygen hose (green) or inert gas(blue) is not only convenient to have made up in custom lengths but has large internal bore to really deliver the gas. Oxygen hose has a 300 psi rating so keep in mind when installing a relief valve. The setup above includes an adapter from Northeast Scuba to allow an oxygen B female to be installed on the regulator. The B fitting is sold by Western Enterprises as a regulator outlet bushing or adapter. The oxygen bushing in the picture is 1/4 npt male X B oxygen female. However, these are also available with 1/8 npt male. The Northeast adapter is 3/8 male X 1/4 npt female. Again, just FYI.
 

Back
Top Bottom