Used Poseidon 1st + 2nd for $100? (for pony bottle)

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@Bigbella got that piece now. Thanks!! and the freeflow started after reassembly. The o-ring is flatter. all clean and assembling now. Wondering if I should keep the current valve insert. doesnt look bat

What in the world is this spec of a piece??? Guessing it's the runner plate 2787 07?

I never seen that piece disassembling

EDIT- found it. Goes under grub screw.
View attachment 684229View attachment 684230
That “rubber plate” bit (2787) is what @rsingler rightly suggested was the most expensive piece of scuba equipment, based upon its weight (retail: US 20.64 In 2020). It is placed under the set-screw, to protect the threads of the valve tube, when setting the cracking pressure.

I usually use tweezers to get the “puck” in place . . .
 
Ahh so when I reassembled, I turned it all the way in. Could that cause free flow?
 
Ahh so when I reassembled, I turned it all the way in. Could that cause free flow?

To increase cracking pressure, you would rotate the tube clockwise; to lessen it, counterclockwise.

If everything is sufficiently tightened; the o-rings in place, and there's still a free-flow; I would reconsider the valve insert.

I had similar issues a few months back. Everything seemed kosher; no damage to the servo; and the valve insert looked ok; but there was some not-so-obvious wear to the, eh, "condom" portion, that was only obvious under a dissecting scope.

if everything else is in place, I cannot imagine what else it could be.

What are you currently using for tools? Some components need to be cranked a bit . . .
 
Currently dont have any of the special tools. The valve has some flat sides that looks like I could use a wrench on then use a large flat head or similar to tighten on the other side. This part doesnt indicate any torque spec.

would use some protective covering on the valve body of course :)
 
assembled everything with the current condom and air up fine! tightness of the valve can only go so much so all is good.
 
Also rebuilt the first stage. With my tools from working on cars/bikes etc, I really didn't need any special tools. The flat surface spanner wrench would have been nice, but I had some snap ring pliers I was able to use for the holes.


Torqued specified parts to spec and lubed as indicated.


Aired everything up and it breathed very crisp. Just have to do some more testing when I get air.

Really not bad at all. Wasn't expecting it to be bad, just worried I'd need a special tool in the process.

Didn't need a vise either. Would have been nice but I made do.
Ultrasonic cleaner makes everything purdy.

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https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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