Used Poseidon 1st + 2nd for $100? (for pony bottle)

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Bigbella

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Other than the special tool, anyone else have DIY tools for the valve housing? I havent taken it apart yet. Im all about DIY tools too.

If not, any source for USA purchasing?

The regulator looks good. The PO was a dive instructor, took did his own work and all things were in good condition compared to what I've seen in person for stored used stuff. He even gassed it up and inhaled out of it for me.

EdiT: So I unscrewed the hose and popped out the valve piece and unscrewed the 2 pieces to just look at. Then put it back together. I then added air but it just kept free flowing. I tried opening it under water but still did it.

What could it be? It gassed up fine when the PO did it.

EDIT: hmm, looks like when I turned the valve housing with a coin after I took off the hose, it unscrewed the housing without the tool. Looks like the notch inside the jetstream body held it so I could unscrew it with the coin.

It may be an issue with the valve insert (something I've seen more of lately) -- its black plastic base is visible in the photo of the LP valve housing (the bit with the vents on the side); or else, a very loose cracking setting; a displaced o-ring; or even a bent servo valve.



Did it free-flow from the very beginning; or did it occur only after your reassembly?

A domestic source for the tools is www.SilentExplorers.com, out of the Midwest . . .
 

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tbone1004

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Is this what the tool should be used to take apart?
View attachment 684195
the tool certainly helps to get those unstuck, but if it's free which it obviously is, then it's not critical. You can diagnose more effectively by removing the diaphragm and cover and see if it seals. If it seals, then it's either the diaphragm itself or the needle valve, if not, then it could be the condom itself or one of the o-rings isn't seating properly. That one does have to be screwed together fairly snug to make sure the valve insert o-ring seals against the crown.
 

akchan

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Gotcha, good info.

cleaning wise, the manual specifies concentrated Hempocid* or 15% Hydrochloric acid. Any other solutions that will work? (have to order, seeing if I can continue today) I have an ultrasonic cleaner. Vinegar at limited times so it doesnt strip coatings?
 

tbone1004

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Gotcha, good info.

cleaning wise, the manual specifies concentrated Hempocid* or 15% Hydrochloric acid. Any other solutions that will work? (have to order, seeing if I can continue today) I have an ultrasonic cleaner. Vinegar at limited times so it doesnt strip coatings?
vinegar is good if it has salt buildup, diluted down quite a bit depending on how powerful the US is. No need for crazy acids IMO
 

Bigbella

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Gotcha, good info.

cleaning wise, the manual specifies concentrated Hempocid* or 15% Hydrochloric acid. Any other solutions that will work? (have to order, seeing if I can continue today) I have an ultrasonic cleaner. Vinegar at limited times so it doesnt strip coatings?

I haven’t used hempocid in years; wouldn’t recommend it for a novice; and I would stick with a white vinegar solution, for its low price and easy availability . . .
 

akchan

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Here is the breakdown. Doesnt seem too bad
20210927_142235.jpg
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Bigbella

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Here is the breakdown. Doesnt seem too bad View attachment 684207

There is an additional o-ring (0010-355), nested within the hose-end of LP valve housing, which doesn’t seem to be accounted for, in your breakdown, which requires two special tools to seat properly; that, or a couple of well-placed dowels . . .
 

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akchan

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@Bigbella got that piece now. Thanks!! and the freeflow started after reassembly. The o-ring is flatter. all clean and assembling now. Wondering if I should keep the current valve insert. doesnt look bat

What in the world is this spec of a piece??? Guessing it's the runner plate 2787 07?

I never seen that piece disassembling

EDIT- found it. Goes under grub screw.
20210927_175442.jpg
20210927_174918.jpg
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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