USED Gear - Help me build a used gear shopping list/budget! And I'll get to scouring...

[Shotmaster]

Seriously?

OK, start calling every dive shop in the directory across the continental US and buy a used ScubaPro "Classic" vest out of worn-out rental stock for peanuts. You won't die.

You will float like a cork on the surface and will have rather nice dives below the waves to.

Now you have something to compare "back inflate" to. Dive it, become one with it. Seriously, and I actually meant it.

Then:

There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man’s fears, and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area which we call ... Backplate and wing.

I concur with this recommendation. The classic is hard to beat. Take a look at the amount of buoyancy it can provide. It also is great at the surface, where the wing will try to keep you face down in the water. Get to know the classic and then dabble with the wing. I tried the wing, it is a lot of bother and you have a crotch strap. If you feel the need to be in the cool club go for it, but I have been diving classics since I moved up to a heavier 95 steel.

 

[filmguy123]

Thanks all!

In all the excitement over the big ticket items... a few things I'm wondering about from the list:

• Weights? I see colored weights, soft weights, hard weights... aye! Plus stuff for integrated setup and weight belt, etc. Not sure what to look for here, what to avoid, and why? Also, is $2/pound used about right?
• Depth Gauge? Suggestions?
• Wrist Compass? (not in console, correct?)

 

[runsongas]

coated hard weights > uncoated hard weights > soft weights. 1 dollar a pound used is about the going rate for craigslist. the LDS sells used weights at 2 dollars a pound.

skip the depth gauge, just get a bottom timer if you want a backup to your computer

scubapro and suunto make good compasses, but you can go with an oceanic compass or dgx compass for less money

 

[MAKO Spearguns]

Thanks all!

In all the excitement over the big ticket items... a few things I'm wondering about from the list:

• Weights? I see colored weights, soft weights, hard weights... aye! Plus stuff for integrated setup and weight belt, etc. Not sure what to look for here, what to avoid, and why? Also, is $2/pound used about right?
• Depth Gauge? Suggestions?
• Wrist Compass? (not in console, correct?)

You may want to consider an elastic freedive belt. They avoid a lot of problems or negatives such as getting loose at depth, sliding down, spinning around, popping open at the wrong time, restricting breathing, having to be worn too tight. etc. They generally use hard weights - which are comfortable if worn properly.

If you buy a MAKO belt and weights and ever have to ditch them during an emergency, we will replace for free.

Weights and Weight Belts | MAKO Spearguns

MAKO FREE REPLACEMENT/SAFETY POLICY

To our valued customers: MAKO Spearguns recognizes that diving (both freediving and SCUBA) are potentially dangerous activities. We have all heard of tragic accidents where a diver is found on the bottom while still wearing a weight belt. We hope and pray that should any of our customers find themselves in a situation where ditching a belt may be necessary, that there is no delay and the belt is dropped immediately.

In many situations a belt is recoverable, however if your MAKO Spearguns belt and lead and/or Tinman weights are ditched (and lost) in a true emergency…. I will replace them at our cost.

The last thing we want is our customers considering the cost of a lost belt in an emergency. The only thing we ask is that the individual shares with us (and our friends and customers) some sort of write-up about how the situation developed and how it was resolved. That way, we can all learn and be reminded to keep safety in the forefront of our minds.

 

[RainPilot]

Hey there. If you have a look at the size chart, you will see that they specify the size as a combination of your barefoot shoe size as well as the type of footwear you'll be wearing.

I wasn't clear either, sorry, what I meant is that if you are diving a drysuit with thick soled booties then an XXL may be appropriate, if not then an XL. In your position I would get an XXL as you are a borderline case, I would then order a set of comfort inserts to dial in the sizing i.e. I would rather have a slightly large fin that I can pad than one that's a little small that I can't do anything about. That's my personal preference though, if you see a sweet deal on a pair of XL maybe that swings it for you.

Maybe check on the Force Fins sub-forum if there's anyone near you that can let you try a pair? I believe there are quite a few FF users in the PNW, Im a little far away but you would be welcome to borrow some

 

[filmguy123]

Thanks RainPilot! That's awesome, I'll check that out. Makes sense.

Interesting suggestion from Mako on using a freediver weight belt - any thoughts on this? With a BP/W setup? (I know with a BP/W I would be using absolute minimum weighting anyhow).

Runsongas - for some reason I was under the impression a depth gauge was required, but look at me learning here. So is it common to use ONLY an air pressure gauge, a wrist mounted compass, and a dive computer, and simply forego any other redundant depth monitoring?

 

[tbone1004]

the rubber belts work fine with a plate, there is no special considerations on weight belt use, but depending on what tanks you have and what not, you may not actually need any extra weight.

depth gauge is not required if you are using a computer to track your depth. For technical diving when you have a redundant depth/time monitor it is never on a console, and they are not allowed by any technical agency I'm aware of. Wrist mounted compasses suck imho and I hate using them because they are very annoying and uncomfortable for actual navigation purposes. Build a navigation slate, much more useful.

 

[stuartv]

Apologies if any of this is a repeat.

- AL BP is not preferable to SS for warm water - unless you're diving with steel tanks - which you probably won't be. An SS BP is basically always preferable - unless your specific dive would result in being overweighted (e.g. board shorts and a steel tank).

- The reason I don't generally look at used computers is that, except for Shearwater, none of them have a transferable warranty. But, if you're buying one that is so cheap that it doesn't matter if it dies a premature death, then okay.

For cutting devices, I carry these:

$7 - DGX Titanium EMT Shears | Dive Gear Express®
$25 - DGX Titanium Tek Dive Knife w/Waistbelt Sheath | Dive Gear Express®
$25 - DGX Titanium Tek Line Cutter w/Waistbelt Sheath | Dive Gear Express®
$18 - DGX Sharp Cut | Dive Gear Express®

So, $75 for 4 cutting devices to address pretty much any situation

The DGX 600 light is really great, too. I have 2 of them.

$50 - DGX 600 Handheld Light | Dive Gear Express® and it comes with a decent quality battery and a charger.

A $40 compass from DGX works just fine for me.

Tech Compass w/Bungee Mount and Cord | Dive Gear Express®

Their SPGs are great, too.

Submersible Pressure Gauges (SPGs) and Instrument Consoles | Dive Gear Express®

And Dive Gear Express customer service, their warranty, and their return policy are all top of the industry.

I have an expensive Atomic snorkel. I have recently gotten this one, for $12, to replace it.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QBJXE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Atomic is great. But, once I finished OW training, I haven't used a snorkel on a dive since. I plan to sell my Atomic snorkel, mask, and blade fins all together. The $12 snorkel will be fine for when I actually go snorkeling.

The W7 wetsuits that tbone linked to are an awesome deal. Waterproof wetsuits are TOP quality. Coral Edge is my local shop. If they don't list something on their website or it says out of stock or something, call them. They keep their in-store and Internet inventories in 2 different databases. It's pretty normal that their website says "out of stock" and they actually have stock next door in the store.

 

[stuartv]

Thanks all!

In all the excitement over the big ticket items... a few things I'm wondering about from the list:

• Weights? I see colored weights, soft weights, hard weights... aye! Plus stuff for integrated setup and weight belt, etc. Not sure what to look for here, what to avoid, and why? Also, is $2/pound used about right?

Don't buy lead until you NEED to and you know how much you need. They'll provide it during your OW class. They'll also provide it on any charter boats you go out on. Once you know how much (if any) you need, you can buy the right size weights.

For a weight belt, if you buy a BP/W, when you fit the harness, you will very likely end up being able to cut enough off the webbing to make a belt out of that. A $5 buckle from DGX and you're good to go. That's what my weight belt it and it's great... I say, though I haven't had a use for it in a long time. A buddy used it for 2 weeks of diving 1 month ago and it worked fine for him, too. With my BP/W setup and steel tanks, I pretty much never have to carry any lead any more. I got a V-weight pouch for my BP for when I'm diving dry and need some extra weight. I have the bolt-on weights for my DSS BP for when I'm diving a single AL80.

 

[filmguy123]

Regarding IP gauges, I see a pretty wide disparity in price. How does that relate to quality with these?

$55 for this guy:
XS Scuba IP Test Gauge | Dive Right In Scuba - Plainfield, IL - Dive Right in Scuba

Down to $20 for the DGX Deluxe:
Deluxe IP Gauge (PSI and BAR) | Dive Gear Express®

Or as cheap as $8 for this guy from DGX
Compact IP Gauge (PSI and BAR) | Dive Gear Express®

Any real benefit in paying 2x-5x as much for a gauge?

Same question for the safety sausages - I see them on DGX for $13, and then $25-$40 on other sites like DRIS or LeisurePro. Anything to look out for in terms of quality, materials, or are they all largely the same and should be chosen primarily on price?

Thanks for all the help guys!