Upgrading AL DA Aqua Master

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Getting back to the topic of upgrading the DA aquamaster, I got my reg finally and have started rebuilding it. It's going to be fun. With the help of a few SB friends and mentors, I'm pretty sure I can get it diving with upgraded silicone parts (diaphragm, duckbill, mouthpiece valves) but the original nozzle. This way I think I'll get the best performance out of the "stock" reg and will be in a good position to compare it with the phoenix upgrade down the road.
 
They are a lot of fun....now you should consider joining us at SandDog VI.

Looking at the website, I can see that it's going to be fun. That's a busy weekend for me, so I won't be able to make it. I'm sure you'll have a great time.
 
Looking at the website, I can see that it's going to be fun. That's a busy weekend for me, so I won't be able to make it. I'm sure you'll have a great time.


That is too bad that you can't make it. I think this is going to be a great SD.
 
I got some rebuild parts today, and could not resist putting the reg together just to see what would happen. Sure enough, it holds IP, and breathes fine on land. I'm waiting on some more parts (spring block, new HP seat, new diaphragm, etc) and the yoke is still kind of iffy, but it works! It's a little disconcerting to see the reg visibly move on the yoke when pressurized, but amazingly it does not leak at the tank/reg connection.

One interesting thing was that the spring inside the nozzle that I took out and the one in the kit were very different. The one in the kit was much stiffer and a little shorter. Since the spring block was also gone, I suspect someone may have rebuilt the reg with some "make-do" parts.

I'm really looking forward to finishing up and testing it out. It won't see water until the yoke, LP diaphragm, HP seat, and filter are replaced.

Regarding adjusting the 2nd stage, I have lots of questions but I'll wait until I get the new diaphragm. One quick one, anybody tried blue loctite for the nut on the LP poppet? Or maybe a drop of silicone? Something to keep it from moving. The manual says to center punch but I'm not too nuts about that one.
 
Or do what I did....steal......I mean borrow a bottle of fingernail polish from the wife. :)
 
I used to follow the book exaclty, Mr Bryan, has convinced me that I do not need to twist the arms on the horsehoe stand offs and that fingernail polish is OK on the brass nut. Yes, I have used blue Loctite which I think is 242. There is a green which is lower strength yet again. To adjust the second stage you will have to adjust both the brass nut and the venturi hex nut as Luis described in the other thread. N
 
Last night I adjusted a DA and lacking any suitable thread locking compound, I melted the end of a piece of cave line and put the resulting small molten drop of nylon over the brass nut and squished it down with a wet finger. Keeps it solidly locked, but pops off easily with a knife blade. It is my new favorite method of doing it.
 
I always use finger nail polish. After borrowing for a while (from my wife) I decided that I could own my own.
I like very visible red and I only use a drop.

I never had one shift or come loose, but all it takes is some nail polish remover to take it off.


As Nemrod said, never bend the horse shoe support hinges either. It is not needed. There was a time when this parts were easily replaced, but not anymore.


As a mater of fact, I am looking for some of those L shaped horse shoe supports. I have some experiments I want to try.
 
Not only does bending the supports eventually ruin them but unless you are very careful and twist them just right they will bind the horsehoe arm, sometimes just a little bitty bit and sometimes a bunch and any at all does effect the performance of the regulator.

N
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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