Understanding Buoyancy

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MikeS

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Because of the rave reviews, I’m thinking of purchasing a BP and wings. Since I want to spend my money as efficiently as possible, I’m trying to completely understand the issues, the first of which is buoyancy. Please let me know if my assumptions are corrected or where I’m off course.

There are three key points to buoyancy:

1. Most important, because drowning is a permanent condition that prevents future diving, the amount of ditchable weight must be such that when dropped you are positively buoyant at the deepest depth, with a full tank (start of dive), no air in the BC (i.e. BC failure), and no air in the lungs (after exhalation and before the next breath).

2. Next most important, you must be able to achieve neutrally buoyancy at 15 feet (safety stop), with an empty tank (end of dive), with ditchable weight intact.

3. The amount of BC lift should be sufficient to make you positively buoyant at the deepest depth, with a full tank (start of dive), ditchable weight intact, and no air in the lungs (after exhalation and before the next breath).

Overall buoyancy at any given depth and time is the sum of the buoyancy of the diver and anything attached to the diver.

The buoyancy of some items remains constant while some are affected by depth (compressible items) and air consumption (air tank). Additionally the diver has control over the buoyancy of some items such as a BC and their selves (through breathing).

Buoyancy constant

Weights, back plates, mask, and flippers. These items are not compressible so the buoyancy is not affected by depth.

Buoyancy controllable

BC, dry suit, and to some extent the diver (through breathing)

Buoyancy affected by depth

Wet suit, dry suit, and BC. These are items that contain compressible air and buoyancy is decreased as depth (and pressure) increases.

Buoyancy affected by air consumption

Air tank. Buoyancy increases as air is consumed.


Any corrections, comments, or additions are appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
 
just some minor detail...

"Air tank. Buoyancy increases as air is consumed."

not always as there are steel tanks and the neutral buoyancy tanks it all depends

now looking forward to further comments
 
I'm by no means an expert on the subject, but it definitely sounds like you've done your homework.

As for the weight, I believe the recommended bladder size for cold water wetsuit dives is 35-40 pounds. Personally I use a BC rated for 35 pounds of lift and 20 pounds of ditchable weight with a two piece 7 mil wetsuit and an Al 80.

If I were buying, say, a set of Halcyon wings, I'd get the Pioneer 36 (would probably be quite nice for wet or dry with the Al 80) or Explorer 55 (seems like that would be nice for dual steel tank diving with a drysuit..)

Anyway, it seems to me that all your information is right on the money. I think it should be noted that the goal with a drysuit is to maintain it's buoyancy constant throughout the dive.

If I'm wrong about any of this, let me know ;)
 
Assuming you are about neutral without your weight belt and bc you need enough lift to compensate for the amount of weight you are carrying and maybe little extra. I dive with about 28 pounds of weight and a 36 pound lift bc is about perfect.


Scott
 
Originally posted by Fishkiller
just some minor detail...

"Air tank. Buoyancy increases as air is consumed."

not always as there are steel tanks and the neutral buoyancy tanks it all depends
Yes, ALWAYS. MikeS is correct, buoyancy ALWAYS increases as air is consumed.

A tank's volume (for all intents) does not change as the gas is consumed, so it's density decreases over a dive.

Now, a steel may swing from -10 to -4 whereas an AL may swing from -3 to +3, so the starting and ending points may be different, but the buoyancy ALWAYS increases during the dive. Depending on the tank, its buoyancy may never become positive, but it will increase.

Roak
 
I just bought a Halcyon wing, SS BP, and harness myself. When you get your gear, I would love to go and try them out (maybe Fredericksburg quarry?).

Let me know if you are interested..I am always looking for a like-minded buddy (I am in Arlington, VA).

--Eric
 
1. A post at Scubaboard.com referenced from another thread here, suggests you should be neutral, not positive, after ditching your weights at depth (max exposure suit compression) at the start of the dive (full tank(s)).

2. Some prefer to be neutral at the surface, rather than 15 feet at the end of the dive, to better control the final part of the ascent.

3. Amount of lift should be equal to the swing weight of your exposure suit + the swing weight of your tank(s).

These are just my own conclusions drawn from other posts and replies on this issue, but they seem to make sense to me.
 
Originally posted by roakey

Yes, ALWAYS. MikeS is correct, buoyancy ALWAYS increases as air is consumed.

A tank's volume (for all intents) does not change as the gas is consumed, so it's density decreases over a dive.

Now, a steel may swing from -10 to -4 whereas an AL may swing from -3 to +3, so the starting and ending points may be different, but the buoyancy ALWAYS increases during the dive. Depending on the tank, its buoyancy may never become positive, but it will increase.

Roak

I again am humbled


air is lite ain't it??
 
Originally posted by Fishkiller
I again am humbled

air is lite ain't it??
If you took that as a slam I apologize, it wasn't meant to be, just a correction. I try to keep the more firey responses in the technical area. :)

Air weighs about 1 pound for every 13 cubic feet. So any kind of 80 cubic foot cylinder (be it a steel HP80 or an AL80) will swing 80/13 = 6 pounds (about) from full to empty.

Since the cylinder's displacement doesn't change (significantly) any change pound-for-pound in air translates into a pound-for-pound change in buoyancy.

Only the endpoints are variable. The -3 to +3 for an AL80 is "accurate enough" the -10 to -4 is totally fictional, but possible.

Roak
 

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