UK Light Cannon 100 HID - Performance

[AllenG]

1. Re rechargeables, with notably few exceptions, you generally don't get good value out of rechargeables when you look at the total cost of operating (TCO) vs. the usable life of the batteries (not burn time from a charge, but the # of times you charge the batteries before you get annoyed with their poor performance, which absolutely shouldn't be confused with what the manufacturer states!). Rechargeables are ideal for fixed installations where you consistently discharge all the way down to a safe cut-off and then allow it to fully charge in a stable setting - think mining operations - e.g., use for an eight hour shift, then slow charge for 16 hours. Otherwise, assume that the rechargeables will start to degrade after 1-2 dozen uses. Yes, I'm sure that this statement will result in many postings from irate people noting that they have gotten 100+ charges from a set of Nicads and, frankly, I too have had some good experiences. However, being in the lighting and battery business, I can assure you that this is not the norm unless you are festidious about your nicads. And good charging systems aren't cheap!

2. HID and short arc discharge strategies can be very efficient and very reliable. It's just a shame then that, based on the comments seen here, UK's rush to the marketplace would seem to have led them to ignore countless design and power system issues. This isn't a knock against UK; most companies in the lighting industry suffer from all the same ills of an economy that favors quarterly earnings statements and M&A/buy-out value over consistent performance and innovation. The lighting industry is loaded with folks who don't understand the complexities of light, power systems, and their intended application. Many products are designed by or marketed by cast-offs from the toy industry. No surprise that many of their products are . . . TOYS! All elements of a diver's gear must be regarded as life support gear and we can ill afford to use toys!

 

[Aquamaniac]

Perhaps the solution is not to use NiCad as your source of rechargable power.
I have had the same batteries in my rechargable light for 3 years now, I'd hate to have to work out how many partial cycles it has been through, and it still performs as good as the day I bought it.

As for the initial cost of the batteries, I cant remember but Im sure it was under $40.00

 

[detroit diver]

Allen,

I've used my SLA batteries for 2 years now, no degredation that I can notice. The only problem is the heavy weight of the batteries.

I'm looking at switching to NIMH batteries for the weight issue.

Of course, I'm talking about a cannister light here, not a hand-held.

 

[detroit diver]

Not speaking for NetDoc, but

Yes, once you've started the bulb burning, you have to leave it on for at least 3-preferably 5, minutes BEFORE turning it off. Once off, you need to let it rest a minute or two before re-striking it.

If you shut it off before the 3-5 minutes, the inside of the glass bulb gets a coating on it which diminishes the output. I'm not sure why you have to wait the 1-2 minutes to turn it back on, though. I'm guessing its a ballast or temperature issue.

They are tempremental, but I would not have anything BUT an HID. Nothing comes close in terms of light output and color, and with my cannister light, a fantastic signalling device even during the daytime.

If you look at a halogen beam next to it, it looks like someone's batteries are going dead.

Oh yeah, I get about 2 1/2 hours on a couple of SLA batteries. The halogen on the same batteries had a max of about 1 hour-maybe a little longer.

 

[DIVERDREW]

Thanks Detroit that makes sense now, Sounds like u have to be a bit careful with the HID but worth it.

Good info thanks

 

[The Chairman]

and I echo his recomendation for a canister light.

 

[wetman]

Any comments on NiMH for HID lights? I've got a Light Cannon and was thinking of getting some of those for it. Also thinking a bout a new canister light based on the NiMH batteries in the spring as well.

steve

 

[Uncle Pug]

I thought about selling my 10w HID pro4 (sealed lead acid batteries) and getting one of the new NiMH Helios 10w lights...

But I would seriously miss that little extra weight of the Pro4 canister... I mean even though it is only one pound negative... that is all the ditchable weight I have with my doubles rig

 

[BILLB]

Here is another angle. The clear plastic lens that screws on and seal with the O-ring can be a real ***** to get off. I have tried light silcone and experienced no difference. The last time I took the lens off I slightly cracked it.

Found out about this after using it on NC wreck dives (> 100 feet). Completely flooded. Since I paid the internet price from you know who of only $126.00, the expense of sending it in and having it repaired didn't happen. I brough another one and although it has flaws, reading this board and learning what I have, I believe I can get good service with it. After all it is that BRIGHT.

 

[Aquamaniac]

FINALLY after a long time in the making , I have finished my "singles" canister.
I have been diving a Pro 14 with a 50w head for a while, It was HUGE but allowed me to get in a couple of dives a day, a big plus for the boat trips I was doing.

I wanted a smaller canister for those times when "single tank" capacity would do. I could have bought a Pro 4 with a HID head, but cost was an issue. I also wanted to try a few things, and see if I could improve on the original design.

Well, by the end of the project, with the materials and Time, I could have bought a fleet of Helios lights. Granted the new canister is very nice, and I enjoyed building it, but it wasnt worth the effort really.

Now Im also wishing I had gone NiMh, rather than SLA.

I will also invest in a HID head soon.........just have to figure a way of sneaking it past the accounts dept, after the last budget blowout, she is rather sceptical.

I have also just realized that has nothing to do with the posters initial question......sorry