two D rings instead of one.

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no, not whats in the video. he only has one attach point on the tank, so it doesn't do any good. If you put two seperate boltsnaps on the tank band and then two d rings on the belt. You can pull it foward with the one and backwards with the other. That way the tank can't move up or down, it stays where you put it.
I saw a video of a guy doing this, think it was called (ghost divers) looked like it worked good. The tank won't move at all.
I gotcha. 2 attachment points on each tank and 2 on the waist for each tank. My bad. Doesn't change my opinion, but I gotcha.
 
does anybody use two d rings on the waist belt, with two bolt snaps on the tank? If you did this you would never have to re trim the tank.
I have with an SMS75 (which uses rails) a sidewinder CCR and 2x al80s of 32% in mexico. But not for the reasons you propose, I wanted the cylinders tighter to my body even when turned 90deg to flat. A small front clip on a bungie solved the floppy feelings.
 
yes, looked like it worked pretty good
I've seen this mentioned on YT/Ghost Divers. The main point of that mod was to stabilize the tanks when frequently going upside down. (Think really tight, twisty sections.) Sure, it also works when AL tanks get floaty, but others have given reasons not to do it for that reason alone.

I mean the guy even says it's something "you probably never need to do."
 
Having them tight fixed to your side is more a hindrance than an asset.

I used to think it was a good idea, I even invented a system that held them so snug it would sometimes bruise my hips. Then I did my first tech class and realized how much it limited my range of motion and many other drawbacks already mentioned.
 
does anybody use two d rings on the waist belt, with two bolt snaps on the tank? If you did this you would never have to re trim the tank.
The closest I get is 1 bolt-snap towards the bottom of the tank, and multiple fixed-d-rings on the waist-belt.

Though I haven't tried a sort of "triangle" setup like you seem to be describing. I might have to try it. It seems like such a system might work better if one of the bolt-snaps was on a bungie.
 
Isn't that two-boltsnap-on-two-Drings approach going to make connecting your cylinder harder? Taking it off and on underwater will be more fiddly, especially with thicker gloves? Similarly when you need to reach between the cylinder and your body to get to pockets, etc.
 
The biggest problem is going to be the level of fiddlyness and lack of flexibility. Like removing a tank for a restriction, doffing tanks before exiting to a boat. Handing off a tank, attaching a stage, stowing a long hose.
Now add dry gloves and see frustration rise.

The reason that there is a single point of attachment is that its flexible.

The double ender triangle is one thing. And granted you could argue that it has it use. But IMHO, the one boltsnap on a leash and moving the tanks once per dive from your back to your front d rings is the best and simplest solution there is. You don't need to constantly fiddle with sliding d rings. just have one set of back and one set of front D rings and once the tank becomes positive, just switch. It's going to remain next to your body as the negative tanks do on your back rings.
 
I'll chime in as the only person who does something like this. I primarily dive steels, but on my al80's I have a second boltsnap on, and this is important, BUNGEE cord. It's fairly light, just enough to keep the tanks where they are supposed to be during the dive. I have tried sliding d-rings and reclipping, and prefer this method for open water wreck diving. Does it complicate donning and doffing? Once the muscle memory is developed it adds very little, just like reclipping to a lower dring would during a dive. It's on a light bungee, so the bungee clips in first and then the main lower boltsnap.

It's an option. Is it the best option? No. Is it the best option for me? Yes. I advise trying everything then deciding what is most natural.
 

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