Hi Neil,
While some of the Grace Bay area sites are quite nice, e.g., Northwest Point, I would say yes, they are in general inferior to those out at West Caicos, French Cay & beyond.
From my most recent trip report:
Provo has a small but fun Casino at the old Turquoise Reef Resort (recently extensively remodeled as an Allegro; with some staff "attitude"), a challenging & very $$ golf course (bring your own clubs), tennis courts, & lots of eating choices (see below).
Best dive sites, e.g., West Caicos Wall. French Cay, etc., are long boat rides but worth it. Closer sites in Grace Bay IMHO not worth it. Can tour old movie location for "South Pacific" out by NW Point, which is also a great dive site. Go check out the prices at some of the housing developments in the SE. Recommend Caicos Adventures for diving. "Fifi" Kunz (male) is an old timer & knows the region -- makes just about daily trips to the best sites. Flamigo Divers & Provo Turtle Divers also quite good. Only shop I would suggest avoiding is Dive Provo, on site at Allegro, except perhaps for the 3 tanks with lunch "Scuba Safari" to the outer reaches on their fast, mega-HP twin diesel. Requires at least 5 to sign up. Dive Provo tends to favor the nearby & less interesting Grace Bay sites, which they often do by cattle boat, & has some inflexible office staff, although crews are very nice.
Lots of hotel choices, from the exclusive & very $$ Grace Bay Hotel, through the somewhat less expensive & intimate Ocean Club & Le Deck, to more modest digs like the Turtle Cove & Erebus Inns. New Comfort Inn near airport is a good value & close to restaurants if you don't mind walking a bit to get to the nearest beach -- and does Provo have beaches, gads.
Spotted eagle rays, nurse & Caribbean reef sharks common at West Caicos Wall area, and I saw a tiger at French Cay on my last trip. The pelagics are definitely there. You will want a car or scooter to get around here.
Provo Restuarants:
1. "Hey Jose" for good Mexican & margaritas at reasonable prices & a fun crowd.
2. "Caicos Cafe" for al fresco dining with a French accent & a nice fish menu; go with the crab claw if they have fresh, native ones.
3. "Anacona" at the Grace Bay Hotel for upscale dining with excellent service. Get a production number dessert.
4. "Coco Bistro" for romantic atmosphere set in an old coconut plantation.
5. "Shark Bite" near the beach for a super grouper sandwich.
6. "Bella Luna" just the down block from Caicos Cafe for good Italian. Get an outside table by reservation as inside can be very warm.
7. "Terrace" if you want to spend lots of cash on often just mediocre food.
8. "Tiki Hut" & "Banana Boat" down in Turtle Cove for rocking happy hours & casual food.
9. "Smokey's" on the beach for fish sandwiches & steel band music.
10. "Dora's" for inexpensive, homestyle Provo food. Don't expect much atmosphere, service or choice.
Does this get you started?
DocVikingo