I was concerned about the pins rusting, so I turned it over to see what it looked like. There isn't any exposed metal, so that's good. See attached photo.
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Yes, it could be easier. We strengthened the glass filled nylon red spring, and we currently have it stronger than needed. We may have to back off on that tensile. We have updated the tool from what you were shipped, but in principle it is the same. The button tools in the photo below were never shipped, and the new tool has a couple buttons connected with a ribbon, shown at the online manual at truefintechniocal. If you don't have a tool, a couple blunt objects can also press the pins, but you can no longer just push the pins with one's fingers to release the spines. The surprising thing is that when the fin is flexed while kicking hard there is actually very little force on the red pins. We really don't need much shear strength at the red pins.I have one piece of product feedback and maybe you guys are already working on a solution based on a blurb in the documentation. The spines are difficult to remove, more specifically, the release is difficult to press just right. I kind of had it, but didn't have a way to pull it out easily. I see on the end is a small slot, maybe add to your removal tool, the ability to hook into that slot and pull?
With that said, the first two were a pain. I got the next two out more easily. Some way to hook into that slot would have made it even easier.
The first few times I tried to remove the spines, I had similar difficulty. But I quickly figured out the technique you mention above, and once I had it down didn't even need the tool for the pins. I can now change the spines fairly quickly. However, the new tool looks even better!Perhaps the easiest way to change out spines is to make sure the red pins are fully depressed, and then use your thumb and push the end of the spine (as shown below) to eject it while you flex the fin at the same time. All you need to do is eject the spine a quarter inch or so, so the pins no longer align with the overmolded chassis shoulder holes, and then the spine is free.
View attachment 788896
We made a running production change from an old domed red pin top to a new chamfered red pin top (see pic below) that is 0.060 inch shorter. Depending on when the spines were installed or packaged a user could get either style. The shorter and chamfered pin top might be easier to push with ones fingers, but I need the tool for either pin style.The first few times I tried to remove the spines, I had similar difficulty. But I quickly figured out the technique you mention above, and once I had it down didn't even need the tool for the pins. I can now change the spines fairly quickly. However, the new tool looks even better!
Having not tried them do they feel like they wobble a little? Asking because of the independent action of each set of spines.I was sent two video files. They seem to be taken around the same time.
No wobble. With the green spines, they were very stiff. The green spines wouldn't be the right spines to use for a flutter kick. Let me solve for the spring tension, I'll do a dive with the yellow spines next, and see if I can get another buddy to capture video of both the frog kick and flutter. I will say that when I kicked hard, they responded. I think a little flex would give me a little more power, TBD.Having not tried them do they feel like they wobble a little? Asking because of the independent action of each set of spines.
would also love to see a burst of flutter speed to see that action.