Trip Report, Turneffe Island Resort

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Sail 'n Dive

Registered
Messages
51
Reaction score
4
Location
The frosty waters of upstate New York.
# of dives
100 - 199
My partner and I spent our March break at TIR this year (I am a college professor ...) and it was lovely experience. Belize City itself is rather underwhelming. But then the fun began -- excellent boat transfer way out to their island, away from the crowds on the other cayes. The island itself is really nicely planned, designed, equipped and staffed. The managers, waitstaff, and dive masters were really friendly and provided exceptional service. It was good to see that the management is integrating local Belizeans into the dive master/junior management ranks. Our private cabana was first class -- gorgeous woodwork, spacious, nicely furnished, very clean bathroom and an outdoor shower in the back that was also spotless and well maintained. Plenty of hot water too, which has been rare on other Caribbean dive trips. The view from our private porch could not be beat, and the staff regularly raked the sand and rearranged ample lounge seating in private little nooks. Meals are served in a single seating, and the food was particularly tasty, healthy, and had some local touches. We were, unfortunately, booked during one of their busiest weeks. There were about 20 of us who came in 2s and 4s, and we were looking for a quiet get-away type trip, with a premium on the snorkeling and diving. But there was another party there as well, a huge extended family group who came to fish, dive, drink, and make a lot of noise. For the most part, this was not that big of a deal, but meals would have been impossible if the management had not split the seatings so that the numerous and rather moderately disciplined kids could eat dinner on their own at 6 pm ; breakfast and lunch sometimes felt like a cattle call, though. We avoided the bar and pool, which were completely taken over by this other crew, which was a pity as they looked great. If you can, avoid peak travel times and you will enjoy this resort all the more. Now for the diving and snorkeling -- one of the best Caribbean trips we have taken (compared to St. Croix, British Virgins, Puerto Rico, Saba, and Roatan ...) The reefs that were about 20 min small boat ride from the dock ranged from very good to quite beautiful. Before this trip, I would have put Saba at the top of the above list for diving. So in comparison to Saba, the only negatives are: smaller grouper and fewer sharks. Otherwise, fairly good medium to small size fish: tarpon, permit, yellow-tail snapper, barracuda, black groupers, angelfish, hogfish, grunts, wrasses, parrotfish, squirrelfish, sargeant majors, butterfly fish, tangs, and so on were present on virtually every dive. Less common, but there if you looked, and got lucky, were the unique Belizean toadfish (ugly but nice to see !), boxfish, cowfish, drumfish, porcupinefish, jawfish , trumpetfish, scorpionfish, peacock flounder, triggerfish, and so on. Nice green moray eels, a few spotted; a few hawksbill turtle, and one shy green turtle; a few rays -- southern sting, and spotted; lobsters, crabs, and shrimp. The coral was in fairly good shape, a little silted-in at a couple of spots, but fairly pristine and no trash, no fishing garbage. On the night dive, also saw an octopus. The high point was the day trip to the Blue Hole/Half Moon Caye -- swam through the famous stalactites and then we were treated to a swim-by on the part of 3 reef sharks. The reefs by Half Moon Caye are the best of the bunch. Do not miss the lunch stop at the island park itself, where the red-footed boobies will bring oohs and aahs from serious birders and amateurs alike. (If you have issues with seasickness, do note that this day trip, and the transfers to and from the island, are in fairly open ocean where the waves are meeting shallow waters: so expect some pretty good 8 - 10 foot waves with short fetch -- and there were unprepared folks who were really green around the gills on board. We ourselves lucked out ... ) Our diving platforms varied from the big boats on the day trip out to the Blue Hole to small launches, and even with the resort being at full capacity, they split us up very nicely, so we were diving in groups of 8 or so. The staff tirelessly switched our gear around between dives with flawless coordination -- no-hassle diving ! I dove Nitrox for a small extra fee. The dive master was wonderful, very knowledgeable, a local diving veteran, who knew where every extraordinary critter could be found and yet ran a tight operation. I think that divers of all experience levels would feel comfortable, although beginners should probably plan on skipping the deep dive at the Blue Hole as the neat stuff is at 130 feet. The drift dives were held in very weak currents, and the viz was usually excellent. I brought my own gear, but the rental stuff that I saw looked new-ish and high quality. A special plus -- my partner snorkels, and instead of just allowing the snorkelers to plop into the water during our dives, as if their needs were rather unimportant, they actually organized custom snorkeling tours, complete with their own boat, captain, and guide. And they saw almost as much stuff as we did ! All round, a great trip, we'd definitely go back.
 
Thanks for the report.

We've always gone to TIR in the summer, late June/early July and late July/early August. This is apparently the "low season" in Belize, and both times the place has been only a little less than half full with about 15 guests. I think the max is supposed to be about 40, and I can see how the logistics of the meals could be a problem when they're full. I remember the dive guys telling me the place is humping when at full capacity.

Because TIR is both small and isolated, the other guests can definitely have an impact on your vacation. Over the three weeks we've been there, we've noticed how the character of the experience can change depending on the overall attitude and aptitude of our fellow guests. Luckily for us, we've always had good experiences.
 
Downing, good to hear that your experience was even better than ours -- which was already a fine vacation. I should mention that they split us up on the dives themselves as well, meaning about 5-9 divers in our boat, plus divemaster , Brad (excellent) and boat captain (Marcel). For the deep dive at the Blue Hole, it was 7 of us, with both Brad and Nick (instructor) diving with us -- absolutely no complaints about the underwater bit !
On another note, the local divers are concerned about the invasion of lionfish in the area. Brad was spearfishing as we went to keep their numbers down, as they have no natural predators. He is trying to teach the local groupers to eat them. Not much luck so far. Even when the lionfish is killed by a diver and put on display for them, the groupers daintily take a wee nibble and spit it out. The smaller yellowtail snapper are happy to chew away on the freshly killed corpse, but they are not going to do the conservation work themselves. Interesting eco situation ... hope it gets resolved somehow.
Brad also came to the rescue of a distressed moray eel caught in the reef, thanks to a fishing hook stuck in its side and line all snarled up around the eel and the reef; setting the eel free took some doing as of course it could not know that Brad was friend, not foe -- and he could have easily lost a finger -- but he freed it from the fishing line, although not the hook itself; Brad thinks it should live, and it was incredible, and gratifying, to see all its green colors come flooding back to the freed middle section of its body in only a few seconds. They are magnificent critters.
Sorry about the remark about crowded cayes, that is hearsay as I have never been to Ambergris and I am sure there are some wonderful and out of the way places just about everywhere !
Wishing Belize travellers, local divers, and dive ops all good things -- its a very special place.
 
Brad and Marcel are both excellent dive guides and boat captains (they trade off with each other each week). We dived with them our first two weeks at TIR, so we asked for them in advance last time as it would just feel weird not to dive with them again.

Having said that, I also like Daniel and John a lot and have done several night dives with them. Plus they once got me out of a potential jam with my wife (long story), for which I repaid them with a six-pack of Belikins.

I've partied with all four of them and the rest of the crew at their staff quarters in the back. I can always outlast Brad, but the other three were still going strong when I decided it was time to stagger back to my cabana.

Who's Nick?
 
I'm headed there in a week and a half and had a quick question. Does anyone know the approximate price of beer, cocktails and sodas?
 
I also have a question: Can anyone ID this stuff? Of all the Caribbean, I only saw it near Turneffe
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Sorry, can't help with the id !
Downer, Nick is one half of the new resort management team, with Vanda. They are British divers, very experienced -- in fact, they tell some whopper stories about diving in the North Sea, deep tekkie stuff, wrecks and so on. After meeting in Scotland, they worked as a staff team on board private yachts in the Caribbean. They just arrived at TIR.
(I got narc'ed on the Blue Hole dive; after being at 129' for about 3 mins, falling a bit behind most of the group, and turning from the wall into more open water. Viz was so-so and it was cold. Diving on plain O2. I sped up a bit to try to catch up and then, wham ! Panicky heartbeat and freaked out feelings. Nick was right behind me. I turned around, pointed to my head and waggled my hand to say, hey there, I am psychologically messed up. I swam right over to Nick and took hold of his BC strap while I tried to breathe deeply and slowly and sort out my addled brain. Nick baby-sat me for about 2 mins. He initiated a slow ascent to 90 ' or so, and brought us back closer to the wall. Then I suddenly felt much better, and I signalled that I could resume the dive, he signalled ok, and off I went. Nick was very good in this situation -- he did not over-react, was very slow, deliberate, and yet attentive. I felt totally like I had gone to the right guy in a tricky spot. I really appreciated his professionalism ! And luckily enough, I got to see the sharks anyway !)
About the cost of drinks -- well, its steep. No criticism intended, given the logistics, but one does want to take that into account. A nice rum cocktail: $10; a soda, $2; Beliken cheaper than US beer, as usual, but both are somewhere in between. Good news is: you can drink the water, and there's plenty; endless supply of ice tea, lemonade, coffee, tea.
 
Are Matt and Morag still the managers? They were fairly new last time we were there and were looking for another couple to come on as assistant managers. The previous assistant managers were reportedly a bad fit and had lasted only a couple of months before they were canned.

Most of the Belizean staff has been there for many years, but the managers and assistant managers tend to turnover every couple of years.

What's wrong with being at 129 feet for 3 minutes? Sounds about right for the BH.

Is that the plant that eats bloodworms?
 
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