Trip Report - The Smiling Seahorse Mergui Archipelago (Myanmar)

[paddydiver]

To be honest, I went there many times and loved the diving but at the moment I wouldn't put 1 cent in the pocket of those murdering b@#stards.

 

[poifromthebag]

And back to Kawthaung, where our passports were returned, we made a mildly terrifying visit to shore by a severly overloaded longtail boat - the rust-and-paint pier was occupied by police boats, so we couldn't moor directly, and cramming 20-ish people into that longtail made it feel like it was going to flip over at any point

Am I reading this correctly? You have leave your passports with this office in Myanmar while on the boat trip, and only get it back after the trip is over? This seems a bit scary. As was the crammed longtail.

 

[Barmaglot]

Am I reading this correctly? You have leave your passports with this office in Myanmar while on the boat trip, and only get it back after the trip is over?

That is correct, yes, at least for the 2023/2024 season, which from what I understand, had different border control procedures from before COVID. I don't know if the 2024/2025 season will be the same, or if they're going to come up with something new.

 

[Scubaboardusr1]

Great trip report !

Any reason why you picked Smiling Seahorse over the Phinisi ?
I am trying to decide which one to go.

A lot of reviews on SS but cannot find reviews of Phinisi on their Myanmar itinerary.

 

[Barmaglot]

Any reason why you picked Smiling Seahorse over the Phinisi ?

They're the only ones, to my knowledge, who do regular blackwater dives in the Andaman Sea, and they were also the only ones doing Burma route last season - they did it a lot pre-covid, but border closures made it impossible when the virus hit and civil war started; they were the first to come back when the border kinda reopened.

 

[dwong]

Thanks. It helps to decide whether to go or not.

 

[Living4Experiences]

An overnight transit to Black Rock signified change from macro to wide-angle, and a significant improvement in visibility. Unfortunately there were no manta or whale shark sightings, and there was a large net - completely fresh - draped over the reef.

Some hentai tentacle action.

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[Living4Experiences]

I always appreciate when someone writes a trip report because it does take time and effort. Even though I would never dive there because of their practices, it's still disheartening to see the evidence of fish traps and nets. I would never hand over my passport to any foreign government. That's a no-go country for me.

 

[diveUAE]

I always appreciate when someone writes a trip report because it does take time and effort. Even though I would never dive there because of their practices, it's still disheartening to see the evidence of fish traps and nets. I would never hand over my passport to any foreign government. That's a no-go country for me.

You can put Sudan on that list as well - nobody told me before the trip I would have to give up my passport at a chaotic airport, so they could take it to Khartoum to stamp a visa. Diving was awesome, but not going back. (Also I did not check before going, that it would mean I can travel to the US on an ESTA - need full visa)

 

[GDMP]

It's not exactly unique, but it's kinda like Richelieu Rock all over, and without the massive crowds. Last time I was at Richelieu, there were IIRC nine boats alongside ours, each disgorging swarms of divers - in Mergui, The Smiling Seahorse is literally the only dive boat running trips this season. Next season a few more are expected, but still, I imagine encountering even one other dive boat will be a major event, as opposed to the heavy traffic in Thailand.

Thanks for the comprehensive trip report, @Barmaglot!

I'm very interested in this trip. I did a Thailand Andaman liveaboard last year and loved Richelieu — it remains the fishiest place I've ever been, even above places like Cabo Pulmo, Roca Partida, Darwin's Arch, Kri, Munaseli, etc. Luckily for us, there weren't many divers when we were there either (I saw one other boat group underwater during 6 dives there). So, when you say it's like Richelieu Rock everywhere, my brain lights up!

Is it really like that?

The lack of protection, nets, etc, are very sad to see though.

I also wondered if you know much about Burma Banks and how it compares with Mergui?

Thanks in advance